I would like to do the valve adjustment and hushers on my B230F. What are the chances of finding used valve shims in the yard the size I need?

Were these engines of such even tolerances at the factory that there would not be too much difference between what I have and what would be available used?

Thanks in advance for any help

Jeez all these responses...Thanks guys...Actually I did check the clearance two years ago. Engine cold and about 20F outside. I thought they were supposed to be checked cold but I was wrong. Clearances were from .017 to .019. Sticker spec is .016-.018 warm I believe. There is noticeable clatter but not horrendous. I probably could let it go but I want to do it because I would like the experience and enjoy the quiet. Part of why I bought this car was to give an old Volvo some real love..And it has come a long way.

I have a micrometer to measure shims.

I did consider someone else not being able to use the heads I removed shims from but there were at least 4 to 6 b230f engined cars in the 2 yards I visited last summer.

Car has 223K on the clock.

Unrelated, But does anyone know how to remove the plastic post mounted backup/neutral safety switch. ( new style no screw ) I asked in a post awhile ago but I suspect no one who did one saw it.

Your clatter is undoubtably squashed, rock hard and/or disintegrated hushers. The measurements you got two years ago are fine. If you procede to change the hushers you can check the clearance before you install them just for your own peace of mind. Once installed new hushers will not give you an accurate reading of the clearance--if there's any clearance at all. Since the cam has to come off it isn't much more work to change the timing belt at that time. -- Dave

I pulled shims out of 4-5 B230's at a yard about 8 yrs ago. Haven't needed to buy any shims except for when I had to buy new shims because I put an aftermarket manufactured cam in, but have been using the used shims ever since, still a few left of various sizes.
Most of the shims I pulled were very close to each other in size, both within an engine and between the different engines I got them from. I would say go and do it.
But when I get to within 2-3 thou of the size I need, I hand lap them to the exact size needed anyway.
Also note that you should use calipers with a broad flat face to measure them. A single point at one location will usually give you an erroneous reading. You need to find the highpoints on the shim across where the lobe contacts. I found this to be true even with supposedly new shims where the machining causes a dish in the center.

Well, a little bit at odds with the other posters, I think salvage shims are absolutely fine. You should be able to get what you need (I have had no trouble) and carry a reasonable micrometer or fine caliper. Used shims show no wear that I can detect. And I find that these engines do require shimming, especially with 100 K or more of neglect, or with a change of cams. You might get lucky and find you are within tolerances, but plan to shim if you are doing more than one engine in a lifetime. You will see most shims you find are in a narrow medium thickness range and getting the occasional thick or thin shim to expand your collection is where all the fun is. The biggest issue is breaking the varnish glue that tends to hold the shims in the cup. I use a fine pick to nudge them enough to break the hold. Good practice is had in the salvage yard. Good luck.

every engine is different but On my 87 244 that I purchased new, valve adjustment have bee checked several times and it is STILL IN SPEC. Mileage is 294,000. Compression is 200-204 PSI on Every cylinder. Way to much trouble to pull shim a a yard just to save a couple dollars. Stop being so cheap and buy some.

le gasp! do it right, pay 5$ a shim and forget about it for the next 100k miles +++
--
Drink Beer, Ride Bikes, Drive Volvo.

Quite a lot of time and effort to pull them in the yard. And the thickness markings are always missing on shims that have been in use for a while, so you don't know what size you're getting without using a micrometer.

Just buy two valve cover gaskets. Check the clearances and figure out what shims you'll need one weekend. Order the shims on Monday, and you should have them by Friday to adjust any that were out of spec the next weekend. They're quite cheap.

I found my 940 was a bit out of adjustment on 3 valves, think I went up 1 shim size on 2 and 2 sizes on the third. Made a BIG difference in how the motor runs.

john
--
1989 245 233K / 1993 945 127K

Usually, these engines don't need adjustment.

Just measure your current clearances and then measure your shims. You may just need fresh rubber "hushers".

You may be able to shuffle some existing shims around, and then only need to by a handful of new shims. They're not *that* expensive.

I'm sort of against pulling shims in the yard for a few reasons: You'll probably need to pull apart several heads.... and then the heads are basically ruined for anyone else to use.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k