Volvo RWD 900 Forum

INDEX FOR 2/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2003 900 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Valve Puller? 900 1994

posted by  mmal231294 on  Thu Feb 10 12:14 CST 2011
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Mar 18 12:34 CST 2011
[RELATED]

Hi All
I started the process of tearing down a head from my old 92 940 last night.
It was neat to see how the "valve hushers" get totally flattened and wasted.
But anyway, any tricks on removing the valves or does it trully require a "Valve puller"? If so, any recomendations on a style/type or manufacturer?
Matt








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Valve Puller? 900 1994

    posted by  anbeard on  Thu Feb 10 17:03 CST 2011
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Sun Sep 4 23:06 CST 2011
    [RELATED]

    i did this job a while ago and used this tool
    http://www.amazon.com/Genius-Tools-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000CE8QTQ

    its a bit cheaper, the quality is not bad for the price.

    you should get new stem seals too, if you havent already.

    before compressing, it does help to tap the springs to loosen the grip on the keepers. i used a magnet to remove and replace the keepers. dont loose them or drop them into the head... that equals bad, if they get stuck in there... and keep all the valves, springs, etc in order. the cam is wear-mated to each one and things may not work properly if out of order. and lightly oil the stems when you reinstall.

    to truly know the condition of wear on the cam lobes and valve shims a micrometer would be best. thousandths of an inch are not for eye-balling. you can do this without a book, but i highly suggest you get one to save any unnecessary frustration. and remember to think about how much money you are saving doing it yourself... as long as you are successful :)

    have fun







  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

    uid 27's pic
    posted by  Art Benstein on  Thu Feb 10 15:20 CST 2011
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=227850







    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

      posted by  mmal231294 on  Fri Feb 11 07:01 CST 2011
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Fri Mar 18 12:34 CST 2011
      [RELATED]

      Nice Art! You just saved me the 50$ I was about to plunk down on amazon for a premade puller. I have the C clamp already, the fittings were 1" ID or OD?
      What did you put on the other side of the clamp to keep from beating up/marring the combustion chamber side of the valve? The piece you are grabbing with the magnet...keeper? And finally, what chemical do you use for cleaning the head up? Or do you just take it to a machine shop for chemical bath?








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

        uid 27's pic
        posted by  Art Benstein on  Sat Feb 12 06:46 CST 2011
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        Well, the $50 one probably works better than hacked up water pipe. The fittings, a close nipple and coupling, are for 1/2" water pipe. Yes, 1/2" water pipe is considerably larger on the outside.

        I did not worry about marring the valve face. Yes, I extracted the keepers with a magnet, and no, I didn't use a machine shop -- I just wanted to fix the head without a trip to town for tools, etc. My favorite cleaner is kerosene and elbow grease. I asked an expert here (John Sargent) once about using something more like what they do in the hot tank at the machine shop, and he (wisely, by example) discouraged me from embarking on that path at home.



        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        Two banks with different rates have a conflict of interest.








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

          posted by  mmal231294 on  Mon Feb 14 07:12 CST 2011
          Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
          last visit: Fri Mar 18 12:34 CST 2011
          [RELATED]

          Well I broke down and went Sears and found for 19.99$ a very serviceable valve compressor. The end which was supposed to fit the valve head didnt work well so I flipped it around and used a 02 sensor socket that had a nice open wall on one side to depress the spring seat...walla! They all came out easy.
          Which brings me to my next question. "Valve stem seals"? Are they only on the exhaust valves? When I pull the valves I didnt see any on the stems? Do they disintegrate or am I seeing them on top of the valve guides as I look down in the head?








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

            Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

            uid 27's pic
            posted by  Art Benstein on  Mon Feb 14 07:41 CST 2011
            Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
            last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Do they disintegrate or am I seeing them on top of the valve guides as I look down in the head?

            The seals were only on the intake valves on my 1984 B23F motor. I would guess that is the case with all motors, to prevent oil from being sucked into the combustion chamber. There are two metal parts, so I would not expect them to disappear.

            I don't have an O2 sensor socket, but if I did, I probably wouldn't have needed to hack up water pipe. Does it provide access to both sides for putting the keepers back when you're done?
            --
            Art Benstein near Baltimore

            Was learning cursive really necessary?







            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

              Recent TB thread on subject 900 1994

              posted by  mmal231294 on  Mon Feb 14 08:15 CST 2011
              Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
              last visit: Fri Mar 18 12:34 CST 2011
              [RELATED]

              Intake side, makes sense. I guess I will order up the new ones and see what they look like. I am probably seeing the old ones sitting atop the guides I guess. I just assumed they would come out on the valve stem. The socket does only open on one side as you sagely note. But its a wide enough opening that I think I can just place one keeper on the stem then push/slide it around the stem to the rear(of the orifice) and then just put the next one on the front...we shall see. One final question before I end this thread, after having gone done this work to the head it makes me wonder how much I should do the block. Oil pump has 225,xxx miles on it, I wouldnt mind replacing it and affirming the pick up tubes connections. Rings, I never measured the compression...and if I am doing the rings I guess new bearings on the crank wouldnt be a bad thought either...am I getting in too deep? Should I just clean and cut the head and slap it together? Decisions decisions!








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Valve Puller? 900 1994

    posted by  rstarkie on  Thu Feb 10 12:47 CST 2011
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:14 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    I use a standard valve spring compressor and a 3/4" socket. The 3/4" square opening at the top allows access to the keepers and with a little grease (as an adhesive) on each keeper I can get them into place with a pair of long needle nosed pliers.

    The design in the FAQ's looks like the way to go I just have never take the time to fabricate one:
    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/SpecialTools.htm#ValveSpringCompressor

    Randy








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Valve Puller? 900 1994

    posted by  Ed7 on  Thu Feb 10 12:41 CST 2011
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Sun Mar 11 13:26 CST 2012
    [RELATED]

    WTF! Nothing should be "wasted" on the head. Get a book, they're cheap.
    Pull the tappets with the shims. If the lobes of the cam have any wear, you'll need one of those too. The shims sometimes show wear and need to be replaced as part of the normal valve adjustment. The thickness of the shim is marked on the back.

    If you place the head on a bench, you can remove the keepers with a deep well socket and a hammer with a sharp blow, but you'll need a valve spring compressor to reinstall them or a C-clamp with an adapter.
    Buy a book.
    Ed








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Valve Puller? 900 1994

      posted by  mmal231294 on  Thu Feb 10 13:07 CST 2011
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Fri Mar 18 12:34 CST 2011
      [RELATED]

      Thx for the replies. Ed I was referring to those little rubber "hushers"...and yes they were totally flattened and broken into pieces of hardened rubber, ergo wasted. I am a complete Knoob at this depth of engine work so pls bear w/me. The shims and cam still look pretty remarkable for an engine w/212,xxx miles on it. I am having a hard time figuring out where the "keepers" are and how they hold the valve in there but I am sure once you pull them it becomes evident. Looking down from the cam side I now just see the tops of the springs, the keepers would be below the springs? I know I know..get a book.
      Thx all.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Valve Puller? 900 1994

        posted by  Ed7 on  Thu Feb 10 14:43 CST 2011
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Sun Mar 11 13:26 CST 2012
        [RELATED]

        You can't tell the players without a program. Looking down at the valve, the center is the valve stem, next two small pieces, keepers grab grooves in the stem and are wedged together by the upper spring seat. What were once rubber rings help draw and hold oil between the stem and the tappet.
        Ed








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Valve Puller? 900 1994

    posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Thu Feb 10 12:32 CST 2011
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    I don't recall the brand toolman I bought my "deepwell valve spring tool" from--it is a sturdy plastic extender for traditional valve spring compressors. It is open on the sides and top to allow access to the keepers once the spring is compressed. I don't think it was more than a few dollars. Any of the major tool manufacturers should list something similiar. Before that tool, I made one from a valve spring retainer with three "legs" (cut B20 pushrods) welded on, to push the valve spring. -- Dave







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.