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So, I'm changing the drive belts, and as my subject line indicates, I'm completely dumbfounded by the A/C compressor. I've actually done this before, in the dark, late at night, not entirely well, and I can't remember how I did, and frankly, I'd rather not.
So, I've read different things: 1. there's a super secret 13mm nut in a sliding bracket in the rear of the compressor body that faces the firewall that needs to be loosened. If so, where the devil is it!? 2. I've also read to just take off the whole crankshaft pulley.
I have loosened the 12/13mm bolts at the pivot (with the rubber bushings), and loosened the 10mm adjusting bolt and 12mm (or is it 13?) bolt that holds the adjusting bracket on. I'm getting some proper movement on the unit, but not enough to pry off the belt... and I haven't yet resorted to a long lever to push the unit over with a lot of force.
Help me before I have it towed to a mechanic in utter defeat!
-pu
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((1993 245 Classic, 125K)) ((1992 244, M47, 115K)) ((1992 244, 120K - departed)) ((1987 245, 271K - RIP)) San Diego
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Hey Pancho,
Hate to tell you this cause it labels me as a hack, but...
I just lever the old belt off the crank pulley with a screwdriver. I use my 1/2 ratchet and 24mm socket to rotate the crank.
After monkeying around with the compressor bolts, well I gave in to my dark side.
Marty
300K club
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So, I finally had the time to go up to the car. I found this mystery bolt - I think. The "oval" side is toward the firewall, and the 13mm nut is facing the other side (toward the radiator). I loosened it and could feel a bracket come loose as well.
Is this right? I'm still not getting much movement on the unit - its loose and moves as it should, but not too much. I had to run down and make dinner...
but does this sound correct? What a pain in the butt!
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((1993 245 Classic, 125K)) ((1992 244, M47, 115K)) ((1992 244, 120K - departed)) ((1987 245, 271K - RIP)) San Diego
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Yes!
There are two retaining 13mm(usually, sometimes 12mm) NUTS. One on the adjusting screw tensioner, and one on the back. There is a welded square bolt facing the firewall. Both 13mm nuts face the radiator. Loosen them, loosen the tensioner's 10mm, push the AC unit up, and replace the belt. I think some (many?) 240's drive the PS pump from the AC pulley.
Good Luck!
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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When I had a/c worked on in my 1990-240 the pipes were slightly relocated, enough so that there wasn't enough clearance, even with all the crowbars in the world. I had to return to the shop for readjustment.
It should be obvious, but it wasnt, to me, at first.
Like you, Im used to being able to do it in the dark, and was highly pissed.
Everything is cool now.
Good luck
L.
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Deep Breath,
It's behind the power steering pump on the bracket that holds the AC compressor in place. That thing ate my lunch a couple of times. Slide your finger down the top of the bracket and feel for the oval headed nut. There is a 13 mm nut on the back side of the nut. With the 10mm long bolt slacked the compressor should push on in towards the block. I always loosen the power steering pump also when I do this.
I will see if I have a picture of it and add in a bit.
Regards,
Paul
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This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.
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I'll give this a try this afternoon. Thanks!
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((1993 245 Classic, 125K)) ((1992 244, M47, 115K)) ((1992 244, 120K - departed)) ((1987 245, 271K - RIP)) San Diego
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There is a separate carriage bolt with 13 MM nut which needs to be loosened in order to change the AC compressor belt. The bolt is located on the other side of the bracket and about the same distance from the end of the bracket to the 13 MM bolt which you had already loosened. You cannot see the bolt and you have to feel it by hand.
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This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.
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So... thank you. There was that secret bolt. Ovalized on the back, 13mm on the front (facing the radiator)I hope this thread will assist people in the future.
And once it was loose, its not like the AC compressor pivots over easily like the alternator. Its still reluctant. Pry it over with a lever - put good force on it, and you can coax the belt off, perhaps with a screwdriver.
Of all the shade tree repairs I've done, this was the most frustrating because the issue was seemingly so simple.
Keep 'em running, folks!
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((1993 245 Classic, 125K)) ((1992 244, M47, 115K)) ((1992 244, 120K - departed)) ((1987 245, 271K - RIP)) San Diego
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