In March, I had a new set of Michelin One radial tires installed. I hadn't had an alignment in about 5 yrs, so I figured I'd get one. At the time (March) the steering wheel had been cocked to the right just a little bit, but it drove nice and straight on all road surfaces. The warranty of alignment will be up in a few months, so I took it back in yesterday to have the steering wheel so it would be flat on the horizon. When I drove it away, it was now cocked to the left, but drove straight with hands off. I took it back again today and the rechecked the numbers and said that it was well within specs. They couldn't do anything further to get the steering wheel flat. What's next? Just drive it as it is or get another opinion and pay another $50 at another alignment shop?
The steering rack is less than 5 yrs/100K miles old, recent new shocks, ball joints, wheel bearings, all bushings, etc.

Thanks for looking.
--
'86 sedan with 447,000 miles on the original engine and automatic transmission

I would test it the old tried and true way. I plan to use these methods myself, but so far this is just info from experienced mechanics, not my direct experience. Drive onto a couple of sheets of newsprint in your garage and see if one or both wheels scrunches the paper up. In perfect alignment, it will not wrinkle the paper. After that, another way to self check alignment is to carefully measure the distance between front wheels at the front of the rim (measure bead to bead, not tire to tire) and the rear of the (front) rims. In alignment, the distance is exactly equal. Some sort of spanning adjustable rod will be needed, working on that.

I will be taking it back in, but to another alignment shop I've dealt with in the past with good results. Per your suggestions, I won't mention the recent work on it and just tell them about the steering wheel being cocked a little.

Thanks and I'll repost what they find with it.
--
'86 sedan with 447,000 miles on the original engine and automatic transmission

I believe your rack was simply not centered when the alignment was done. Starting with the steering wheel level, turn the wheel to lock and note the exact end position. Then do the same in the other direction. If the steering wheel positions are not the same then the rack was not centered when the alignment was done.

To correct the problem the alignment must be redone with the wheel centered. Apparently the shop tried to correct the centering by simply eye balling it by turning the tie rods (the rack's end links that connect to the road wheels). Even if they had hit the center point the rest of the alignment settings wood still have to be performed because all the adjustments are interactive.

I would take it to another shop and not say anything except that you think you need an alignment because the wheel is not straight. If they are successful, take the receipt and printout to the first shop and ask for a refund.

Take the wheel off, set it straight, tighten nut.

"Take the wheel off, set it straight, tighten nut." That will work provided the amount of off center is equal to one (or more) spline's worth of rotation--often it is not. The car in question should be taken in by the original shop, have the wheel at center (maybe the shop is unaware the the Volvo wheel can be rotated on the shaft) and with the "rack" itself centered and then the tie rods equalized. It's as easy as pie and the original shop should accomodate you. When I worked at Honda (way back) they stressed a survey---a happy experience at a shop will result in a couple of recommendations--an unhappy experience will be shared with a dozen others. -- Dave