Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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B20? 140-160

Finally got the 220 into the working shop (yes I know this is the 140-160 forum). The first thing I did was check compression - #4=170; #3=170; #2=165; #1=25. Yes that would be 25 not 125, and yes I checked it multiple times. I happen to have what looks like a fairly fresh fuel injected B20 that came with the car as a spare. I pulled the head the other night and things look pretty good inside. I sent the head to get cleaned, checked and possibly rebuilt. Now the question, do I have a B20e or B20F? Cast number = 49; stamped = 8284; last stamping = 33833. Next question, if this is a B20E, would it be wise to have the head shaved for a bit more compression? I will be burning E10 or E15 in this engine (yes I know, but I live in corn country) so was thinking that a bit more compression might be a good idea???? Oh, this head is going back on the B20? and into the 220, along with an M41 transmission. My son is trying to convince me to just get the engine and transmission back into the car without painting the engine or the engine bay, but I think I might fool him...

Merry Christmas!!!!
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time








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B20? 140-160

Like Messina says, good idea to check that the valves are closing all the way!
If it is a B20E do NOT get the head shaved!! It is high enough compression already!
I believe the 1800list website has pix of head configs.
Briefly it sorta centers around the center headbolt next to the manifold flange.
(This applies to FI heads only.)
If it has dips on both sides of the center headbolt, it is an E head.
If it has a dip on only ONE side of the center headbolt it is an F head '73 or earlier.
If it doesn't have any dips on either side of the center headbolt it is a 74/75 F head
which have more meat for more radical porting (they tell me).








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B20? 140-160

George,

Thanks for the heads-up!! Another listee sent me pictures of what to for on the heads. I will be going over to Madison to talk with the machinist this noon, so will look at the head configuration then. Yeah, 10.5:1 is plenty high enough compression!!

I am thinking that the B18 in the Amazon is a bit tired, plus it needs an oil seal replacement on both ends. I am also going to swap out the M40 and put in an M41 transmission. By the way, I think I still owe you $50??? Give me your address again and I will get that off to you.

How was the mission to Cuba? Do they have as many old Volvos down there as they do American cars???

Merry Christmas!
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time








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B20? 140-160

Did you adjust the valves before you took it apart? I had similar readings on the B20 in my 145 last year (50# on 1), it turned out that the valves on #1 were pretty far out of adjustment.

Just curious.








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B20? 140-160

B -

The engine with the low compression in #1 is a B18 that really needs to come out of the car for oil seal replacements and for a transmission switch. The head I am dealing with is from a fuel injected B20 engine that was part of the car purchase. The B20 looks good, would give me a bit more power, and could easily be cleaned up and painted while on the engine stand. I will be converting the B20 to SU's. Oh!, yes, I checked the valves and they were in good adjustment on the B18. When I pull the B18, I will open it up to see what is up with the valves, or whatever...

Merry Christmas!
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time







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