I've had an issue with our 91 240 for a while now with an intermittent
stall from time to time which usually restarts. The fuses are occasionally
loose in the holders and that has sometimes fixed the issue in the past but
now I'm wondering if that wasn't a bit of a red herring. I've had a bum fp
relay in the past but those symptoms were a bit different. This is loss of power and fuel and then it stalls. Tonight it stalled and wouldn't restart and had to be towed. After sitting for an hour at home it started right up again. I let it idle for 15 minutes and then it stalled again and wouldn't restart. I disconnected the AMM and is started. I reconnected no start. I then disconnected again and no start. It's getting to the point of being dangerous since we drive on the LA freeways. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
No smell of gas when FPR is disconnected either.

Thanks, Kirk

I feel for your predicament. I just spent three weeks in Los Angeles restoring a long neglected 240. The place is hair raising--the traffic, the hectic pace, and the big fees if you cannot guess right yourself what is wrong. I was really surprised how much heat affects the bricks down there in the desert. Very harsh environment for these cars. That said, your comment "loss of power, loss of fuel" made me think of the 25amp fuse holder behind the battery and maybe just under the power steering reservoir. If this were to go it would present the exact same symptoms you describe. This line with the fuse supplies the juice to the computer that does the fuel. I read somewhere a respected Volvo mechanic once said 70 percent of all no start no go tows into his shop were due to this fuse. IPD sells a kit for about 12 dollars that gives you a new water proof fuse holder and heavy gauge wire to splice in. If you have the time and the space at your dwelling in L.A., lift up the hood and spend some time studying the wires and how they have been faring. Check out the battery hook ups, check out the bus just to the right of the battery, the black box. I tend to agree with another poster that said it is probably not the fuel pump. L.A. is tough that way. 500 bucks instead of 12.

I second Jorrel. Check the crank position sensor. My 90 was doing the same thing recently.
Did it set a code? My car set the code for crank sensor. Have you checked that?.

Good luck.

You might also take a look at the ignition computer. It is mounted on the windshield wiper reservoir. My 84 had issues dying, on the interstate and everywhere. When I was younger, I can remember almost getting t-boned because it died as we were pulling out of somewhere after church.

Try cleaning and retightening the terminals inside the plug. If you notice anything broken or otherwise damaged, go get a new plug from the junkyard and splice it on.

Mine was in and out of volvo for a couple years before I finally figured it out one day while I was driving. Best of luck.

I'm leaning with Jorrell on this one. Check the Crank Positionng sensor wires.

On another angle.. AMM: is the thermostat in your Air Box functioning properly? A bad Airbox T'stat wouldn't account for the cold/wet start issues but if Hot air is running through the AMM after the car is driven a while. you could be getting weird driveability problems.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

Thanks, I'll check the wiring there. As to the airbox thermostat, I have it blocked off so I don't think that's the issue.

Kirk

Blocked off... Good.

If you still can't start it. Wiggle that wire and see if you get Life.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

It may also be worth mentioning that it seems very hard starting in wet weather
and runs very rough for the first minute or so after starting, which would seem to point to the ignition system.

thanks, Kirk

Check the insulation on the crank position sensor harness behind the cylinder head, up against the firewall. If it is cracked and or missing insulation in areas, replace the sensor. This is a common problem and can be quite intermittent.

jorrell
--
92 245 299.3K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Well, it started right up this morning cold and managed to get it to my mechanic as my wife needs the car asap and I didn't have time diagnose. The car died while idling at mechanics leading me to think fuel pump. Not too happy with the 540- spent diagnosing and replacing the fuel pump. Am I out of touch are does that seem very high. I should also add that my 84 died this morning as well when my wife left to pick me up at the mechanic. Not a good 2 days for our bricks.

thanks, Kirk

That sounds very high to me, if it's not the in-tank pump.

I would check the power stage/amplifier under the hood. Is this a bosch system?
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

I would be surprised if the fuel pump fixes your problem, only time will tell.
Dan

I've had two 240's with starting/stalling issues that were both fixed by replacing the ingnition fuse holder mounted on the rail on the driver's side of the engine compartment. If I remember correctly it is above the driver side wheel well. In both cases the hood bowed slightly in the middle which I believe allowed the weather to get in and corrode the fuse holder. Simple fix once I knew what it was, but it took a lot of frustrating troubleshooting to figure it out.
--
1990 was a good year; '90 Chevy Suburban 4x4 Manual Tranny, '90 Volvo 240 DL