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Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

posted by  newmex999 on  Tue Nov 30 05:34 CST 2010
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last visit: Thu Aug 21 09:05 CST 2014
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How difficult is it to replace the fule regulator? Are there any adjustments that need to be made once it is installed? Or do you just slap it in?

Thanks
--
1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL








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    Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

    posted by  Will740turbo on  Wed Dec 1 15:09 CST 2010
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    You just pop it in. No adjustments, just make sure you don't goof up the o-ring or you'll be leaking raw gas. I haven't done it on my 240, but I do see a big nut that isn't present in my 740.
    Agreed on the rag issue. The advice for my 740 is to start the car and pull the fuel pump fuse. The pressure will drop and the running engine will supposedly leach off the pressurized gas in the fuel rail. (didn't work for me because my fuel pump isn't set up right)

    --
    1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond








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      Depressurizing myth 200 1985

      uid 18083's pic
      posted by  lucid on  Thu Dec 2 03:07 CST 2010
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      "The advice for my 740 is to start the car and pull the fuel pump fuse. The pressure will drop and the running engine will supposedly leach off the pressurized gas in the fuel rail. (didn't work for me because my fuel pump isn't set up right)"

      I doubt if there anything wrong with your fuel pump set up, because this "pull the fuel pump fuse" myth bites most all of us eventually, and comes up here fairly often. It doesn't work because there is no specific Pump or Relay fuse. And pulling any fuel-related fuse (more below) results in an immediate stall—with no appreciable depressurizing (due to check valve at pump and FPReg up front).

      Tank pump fuse aside (and the car will run without it), the only LH FI fuse is the 25 AMP blade fuse on '85-'90 200s (fuse 6 for '91-'93) or Fuse 1 for 700/900. And pulling that fuse will cause either an instant stall or no start at all, because it feeds everything in the FI and Ignition systems.

      So wrapping a rag around a carefully loosened fitting it is the only way I know to depressurize.

      --
      Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.








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    The hardest part was the crow-foot wrench size .... 200 1985

    posted by  Ken C on  Wed Dec 1 10:54 CST 2010
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    I've got a '84 B23F LH2.0 and a '93 B230F LH2.4, so yours might be a little different, but I remember that the hardest part of the job was not having the right size crowfoot for the big nut!
    I had to find a local Snap-On truck (fortunately had his cell-phone number) on his route and drive to meet him, for the 22mm flare nut-style crowfoot (I always prefer flare-nut when I can). I found (on my '93) that I couldn't swing the handle of an ordinary wrench, so the crowfoot on a ratchet was the best way.








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    Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

    posted by  weather on  Tue Nov 30 05:42 CST 2010
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    only marginally harder than an oil change because you need to relieve the fuel pressure.








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      Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

      uid 34776's pic
      posted by  Ryan_R on  Tue Nov 30 06:32 CST 2010
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      No need to relieve fuel pressure. Just cover the fitting with a rag once you start to loosen it. Obviously eye protection can not be overstated, but I've not had any major sprays.

      If the regulator is truly bad, there may not be any pressure. :-)

      -Ryan








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        Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

        posted by  johnboy740 on  Tue Nov 30 07:00 CST 2010
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        Couldn't agree more about the rag AND the eye protection. You might end up with a facefull of gas if you don't use the rag. You still might even if you do, hence, the eye protection.








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          Replacing Fuel Regulator--Easy???? 200 1985

          posted by  newmex999 on  Tue Dec 14 12:14 CST 2010
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          Final resolution---- After throwing many parts at my wagon to get it to pass emissions I finally took it to the local Volvo shop. They diagnosed it as bad fuel pressure regulator, bad breather hose between AMM and thottle body, leak at the engine manifold and leak where the engine manifold joins the pipe that goes to the catalytic converter. They wanted $1200 plus tax to fix and I told them no thanks!

          Purchased fuel pressure regulator ($72), breather hose ($14), and gasket between manifold and pipe to cat conv ($3).

          Installed all and car passed emissions finally! Also pulled vacuum hose to ECU (thanks lucid).

          On my low idol (764rpm) the vehicle just passed-- HC limit 220, my vehicle 209 and CO limit 1.20, my vehicle 0.72

          Is there anything I can do to reduce these?

          Thanks


          --
          1993 240, 1992 240GL, 1985 240DL Wagon, 1983 240DL







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