|
|
|
Read in a recent post The top 3 places that I have found on the B6304 engine are : 1) bottom of the upper radiator neck 2) coolant reservoir cap (they're $6 at NAPA). 3) heater hoses (where they connect to the metal lines) between the firewall and the back of the engine. DEWFPO
The vehicle has 205xxx miles, is pretty sound all around, and I like it.
Coolant seems almost everywhere, but not a lot. Area around heater hoses is clean. Coolant stays in expansion tank. Leak residue under that tank, down LH side of radiator, dried splatters around LH side on accessories, hoses, other stuff.
Reference your #1 leak spot at upper rad hose neck. My leak seems to be there. Now I am preparing to replace that hose and the expansion tank and its hose, BUT...
Sounds like I should have on hand a new radiator. Is that #1 leak spot one which dooms the radiator?
If yes, is a Volvo radiator recommended? What else?
All suggestions and ideas will be most welcome.
Regards,
Bob
:>)
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be 960 Brickster
on
Thu Nov 25 14:11 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
|
|
I would suggest getting a Volvo or Nissens rad. I believe Nissens is the OEM mfr. I hear that low quality and price rads such as CSF often do not fit properly. The transmission line is often off, and some are single row and can not cool enough. Such rads will rot very quickly.
The upper rad necks often fail when non Volvo mechanics lean on it when working on the engine. I have been careful with mine, and it has lasted twice as long as the previous owners rad lasted. Mine has been in for nine years.
I will be replacing mine very soon. Hoping the upper rad neck lasts till spring. Good luck and keep us posted.
|
|
-
|
|
Hi B.C., Happy Thanksgiving!
If you have coolant at the bottom of the driver's side radiator neck and it's from a cracked plastic neck (very common) then you have an impending catastrophic failure looming. You are lucky that the neck is telling you to replace the radiator. At some point it will fail completely (the neck will break off) and you will loose all the coolant quickly risking an overheated engine. I am not trying to scare you, just stating fact. These radiators with the B6304 last about 10 years on average. That being said I have 12+ on one of mine, the other was replaced at 13 years. All the hot/cold cycling and the engine rocking cause that plastic neck's failure. Nissens is a very good brand. I believe the OE might even be a Nissens. Do yourself a favor and replace the upper radiator hose as well since a new one will be more pliable and put less strain on the new neck. It's also a good time to replace the thermostat.
I hope this helps.
DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 083,228 and 1995 964 154,100
|
|
-
|
|
I have a 1997 965, and I had the top port on my radiator crack. It was caused by the hold down brace on the top of the radiator being loose. It is secured by a 10mm nut holding it down One on the left and one on the right. I now keep an eye on them.
If you replace the radiator don't get one from Advance Auto, I got one from them and in place of some sensor in the radiator, there was a plug which leaked with in a few days. Plus, it was a bear to install the transmission lines did not want to fit and the leaked until I used teflon tape. Turned it back to AA, got a Nissens from somewhere online, it went in like butter. I could not believe the difference in installs and no plugged holes.
Make sure you have line wrenches if install a new radiator. If you do this you might change radiator hoses and thermostat if needed.
If this is a new to you car, the timing belt is a critical point on these engines, if it breaks it can be bad, very bad. Timing belt replacement interval is 70,000 miles on our rides, I also changed the water pump when the belt was replaced.
Good luck
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the PFF reply (Pretty Fast)
So you diagnosed the aforementioned crack as radiator doom, right? Parts of that nature (high dollar, critical, high labor) are never on my Advance Auto or AutoZone or or CarQuest or O'Reilly shopping lists. Maybe NAPA, in a pinch.
Over the years on this BB, I have heard more good about Nissens than otherwise. To set a benchmark for price I will check with my local Volvo dealer and also with Borton Volvo after the holiday. Shipping costs could be a bear for that weight, though,
Whatever the costs, I will be very happy to end this leak mess. Now I carry a gallon of 50/50 distilled water and Volvo coolant, and an additional gallon of distilled water.
Make sure you have line wrenches if install a new radiator. If you do this you might change radiator hoses and thermostat if needed. Good points. I will be changing radiator hoses, and checking if the refrigeration wrenches (line wrenches?) I have are the correct size. You do mean to use them on the trans fluid cooler connections, right?
The car was new to me in May 2005, with 128K and maintenance beginning at 53K from its "birthing" Volvo dealer. TB at 125K. At 188K I had TB, SB, all tensioners and idlers and the water pump done, so that stuff should be OK.
I am fussing with a low alternator charge problem, though. I got the Volvo brush/regulator set, but it's a far cry from the 240 replacement. Looks like the alternator must be removed and the rear end of it disassembled.
Thanks again,
Bob
:>)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Sounds like you are on top of things, I certainly have enjoyed mine. Yes line wrenches for the transmission lines.
Our cars must be cousins, I also fought a low charging problem I would measure only about +12.8 VDC at the battery terminals when running and alternator loaded down. I pulled my alternator, checked the brushes they were fine. When I did remove the battery cable it drew, what I thought was a pretty healthy arc. Not knowing if this was normal considering the vampire/ghost electrical demand on these "newer" cars. It wasn't. Took the alternator to a couple of parts houses to check by their "highly trained" staff one store it was fine, the other said it wasn't. I ended up taking it to a local rebuild place, run by a crusty old guy, he checked said it looked OK, but . . . I went ahead and exchanged mine, for another Bosch, they even put my old pulley on the new one. It worked fine. +13.8 VDC with the system as loaded as I could make it.
If you have to remove yours, it wasn't so bad just a lot of parts to remove the power steering pump does not have to come out just moved, and in case you didn't know you can use a 3/4 inch socket adapter to fit inside the serpentine belt tensioner to remove the belt.
Good Luck
Sorry I am so long winded.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Finally today I pulled into the driveway in daylight, jumped out with the engine running, and saw wet coolant in a tiny trickle below the upper hose connection to the radiator. Also saw wetness on the hose connected to the underside of the expansion tank.
So - the mission is clear - replace all that stuff. I ordered a Volvo radiator from Borton Volvo today. When it arrives and I get all that stuff replaced, I expect to not have to feed the @#$@$ leak anymore. Hooray.
Thanks for your info, it helped at lot.
Bob
:>)
|
|
|
|
|
