My car died and as i kept trying to start it smoke came from the car a few hours later it started again once it cooled down.
I changed the air mass sensor recently myself, and after that the gas burning smell from the car stopped, i thought the car would work perfect after that,

but the volvo after running for 13 miles plus died on me on the road, i pulled to the side and had to wait 5 min to get it started again, then it died about 3 times before i could safely park it at a gas station( it would just shut down on me), waited for it to cool down came back 3 hours later then drove the car safely to my house about 10 miles away(drove fine)

started the car in my driveway and it worked 15 min then died

a diff day it worked a little longer than died, this is just the car standing there not running...

had it taken to a small foreign car repair shop this week

they said after all the computer checks the car works fine, and they said they had it turned on for 1 hour plus and drove it around and it seemed fine didint shut down on them ( well the weather is colder now could that be why its not heating up..overheating)

one thing that they said they need to fix is the booster as the pedal squeeks when you press one it....


does anyone have any idea why the car dies then starts up after a while, is it safe to drive or should i go to a pro volvo shop to make sure ?

please help

-Steve
long grove , IL

LOOKS LIKE THEY found the problem said it was the fuel pump

car finally shut off on them at the shop

and by replacing the fuel pump.........or fuel pump realy cant remember exactly waht the mechanic said... it looks like they said its running perfect..

total cost 260$, im just happy the 240 is good again.


and for the booster ill just try to get a used one somewhere at a junk yard


thanks for all the comments looking forward to cruising in the VOLVO today by Lake michigan in chicago

-Steve

The power stage/ignition amplifier that is mounted next to the battery may be your problem. When this overheats it will temporarily fail and you will have no spark at the spark plugs once it cools off it will work again. The next time it stalls check for spark at a spark plug or from the coil.

Take the powerstage off the heat sink it is mounted to and coat the back side of it with some Heat sink thermal dielectric paste, this may solve the problem.

If not replace the powerstage.

The fuel system relay may be your problem easy to replace.

Both these parts are easy to change and it is a good idea to have know good spares in the glove compartment.

If the brakes work well without excessive pressure from your foot to stop the car the vacuum booster is fine.

You probably need to find a mech with older Volvo experience, I'm not too sure the current one does?

Dan

You don't say what year your car is. If it is 1989-1993, check the wires for the crank position sensor, decay there could cause random stalling and intermittent failure to restart. It lives behind the engine, on top of the bellhousing. Not something to fondle when the engine is hot.

Also consider the power stage for the ignition system. It's a little box mounted on a metal heatsink on the inner fender behind the drivers-side headlight. It can overheat due to a poor thermal connection between the heatsink and the fender, causing random stalling and failure to restart until the part has cooled.

Fuel pump relay has already been suggested and is certainly possible. If you have a soldering gun, simply reflow the internal connections in your existing relay, no need to buy a new one for $30.

As always, the FAQ is your friend:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm#Start_or_Stall_Problems

John

Help!


Please tell me what is going on here! Why is this happening?!?!

Are you saying that you overheat the engine until it loses enough compression to not run, and then post here about why the car is just standing there, "not running"?


I'm in a panic

i turned the enjine on and after about 15 min the car shuts off( this is with the car just sitting there in park)


this happend a few times already

then when the mechanic checked it it worked fine for an hour

and while hooked up to a computer

it said car is fine, so they just said that they need to change the brake booster for now and so i should keep driving tha car and see how it goes

Boy this class is boring...


I think that what threw me was the word "smoke". What you said is, you operated the starter until the windings charred.

The brake booster is not even a fraction of the problem, and if you have changed nothing else, your car will strand you at a most inconvenient time.

What is the temperature of the fuel pump relay, after 30 minutes of operation?


Goatman

i will have to check that when i get the volvo back from the mechanic

but my volvo mechanic not the one the car is at right now

said i might need to change the fule pump relay , that could be a possibilty..

he had the car a few months back for a inspection and said it worked perfect than, and that all i needed to change back then was a mass air flow sensor


also the current mechanic is changing the booster for 270$

parts and labor, is that fair you think?

-Steve

Hello,


I almost scored a booster for free, but I left it to be crushed because there was no more room left in my trunk. I don't carry car parts in the cabin.

I would get a junkyard booster for $20, and just because it is squeaking does not mean it is leaking. Try greasing the pivot joint.


Goatman

that might be a good idea, thanks. for the help

hopefully it is the fuel pump realy this way i wont have to worry about it dying on me anymore,

whats a typical cost on the fuel pump relay new?

Consider a junkyard fuel pump relay. Might be as cheap as 5 bucks...
--
Bessie - 95 855 GLT Sportwagon; 93 854 GLT; Inga - 90 244 DL 300k, gone but not forgotton

OE is around $58 a piece from independent Volvo shops.

jorrell
--
92 245 299.3K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!