Hi All,
After a long time of putting up with a dead in tank fuel pump I tried a used part carefully examined and bench tested--it worked great. I think I got maybe 2 hours of operation before it croaked.

So, now I am sucking it up to replace the whole sending unit and install a new in-tank pump.

One of the reasons I went with the used part was that the pump was OEM--NOT aftermarket. There are stories her and other places suggesting that the aftermarket parts are not the best--leading you to repeat the job over again.

So I am looking at whether I should spend almost double on this "upgrade" part from IPD. There are no reviews online at the IPD site. I am open to any kind of feedback before I go all out.
thanks,
Rod

I have a 1980 242 with the B21F K-Jet.

It was suggested in passing to me that my in-tank pump might be dying or dead. Why? While sitting at idle at a traffic light or at lower speeds--especially (if not exclusively) in warm to hot weather--I get a funny intermittent noise, kind of like a whirring buzz, coming from (I think) the right side of the car. Exactly where is hard to say, but it is definitely not engine/fan/drivetrain noise...

My question is: how can I positively and safely determine if the in-tank pump is dead? And if I do need to replace it, would I benefit from the higher-volume iPd pump in my current application (getting the car as comfortable and usable as possible in a mostly-stock configuration)?

OK, pump conclusively dead. Replacement in a week or so. I just wanted to make a little list of what I need to take care of any eventualities so the job will go smoothly and put it out there for editing/suggestion by all:

-new pump
-new in-tank filter
-sending unit seal ring
-new clamps for the in-tank hose
-length of submersible fuel hose to replace the little accordioned one
-bung nut lock ring
-I'm probably going to invest in the iPd bung nut tool as well

I'll throw some PB Blaster on the top of the bung nut and let it sink in over the next week or two, then get to it.

Any additions to this list?

Also, there doesn't seem to be any real consensus on what pump brand or part number is the most reliable or cost effective... any last minute suggestions? iPd sells a pump that is "the same original Bosch pump that will last as long as the original" for $58, which seems spendy compared to the Fords, etc, but I am a sucker for OE. Thoughts? Again, I'm driving a 1980 K-Jet.

Thanks!
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

The AC pump is the one to buy. But the Airtex also seems reliable.

I say, "seems reliable," because I have been using the Airtex in both my cars and they have not stopped working after two plus years.

The no-name aftermarket pump I put in my wagon in 2005 ran for about two weeks before it shot craps.

Where are you seeing the same original Bosch pump at ipd? To the best of my recollection Bosch didn't suply tank pumps for the 240.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Sorry about the other message... the email response feature didn't work so great.

Here's the link to the ipd product:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6787/101204-in-tank-fuel-pump-200

The product description reads:

"A fuel pump either works or it doesn’t. Be sure to fault check the wires and the relay before replacing it. A repair to the power source is far less expensive than replacing a misdiagnosed fuel pump. These pumps are the same original Bosch pumps that will last as long as the original."

Maybe they meant "supplied by Delco as OE on Bosch systems."

The AC Delco pumps are significantly cheaper elsewhere, no?
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

How did I miss that? I still don't believe it, though. Volvo literature indicates that VDO and AC tank pumps were used. At some point only the AC unit was available.

It is interesting that ipd depicts the AC pump on their website. You have to look closely but you can see the trademark. No way of telling what you might get if you buy sight unseen.

If you buy from them you might want to call and ask someone to check stock visually, not just by what is in the database. They have done this for me in the past.

Oddly, FCP Euro specifically states that they are selling the AC pump and they are charging about $15 more than ipd. So I stand corrected.

If you know the AC part number you might be able to buy it locally for less money. It was used in various domestic vehicles. I can't tell you the part number or which vehicles it may have been used for.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Strange. I'll look into it.

BP, you seem to have done this more than once. Is it pretty straightforward (it seems so, anyway)? Any pitfalls I should be thinking about, especially in the '80?
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

It is pretty straightforward. Still, it can be a pain, literally.

I'm sure you have read Art's notes on the tank pump. That's where I started the first time I did this procedure. If something isn't mentioned there, it probably isn't a problem.

The thing that gives me, and I daresay others, trouble is the cramped condition in which you will be working. There's a bit more headroom in the wagon but you still have to crouch down over the opening. After not much time my knees and lower back begin to hurt. Maybe sitting cross legged would alleviate some of that.

Be careful with the float ball. I have never lost one but some have and while they can be retrieved it sounds like a real challenge.

Speaking of the float ball, it may seem to be an obstacle when removing the sending unit, but if done properly it's not hard. Art describes it as well as one can. Knowing that, when you get to that point, removal should be easy.

In publication TP30454/1, pp. 59-60, Volvo warns that when replacing the VDO pump with the AC Delco unit a (noise?) suppressor must be fitted. The added suppressor that is pictured bears no resemblance to the one I have always encountered and the wiring illustration is a bit vague. The one I am used to seeing (called out on p. 60 of the aforementioned publication) somewhat resembles the business end of a double barreled shotgun. It is seen in several of Art's photos. With any luck it will already be in place on your sending unit. It was on my 242.

You are using your existing sending unit so the reverse polarity that Art mentions should not be a factor.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

OK, the job is done. I would say that there were zero surprises, thanks to everyone here for that.

However.

I am pretty surprised at HOW LOUD THE PUMP IS. I feel like it's a normal, low buzz under the overall noise of the engine from the outside. You have to be listening carefully to make it out and know what you're listening for. Then you get in, close the door, and it's as if it sets up a harmonic vibration right where my head is located. Unnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn.

I'm wondering if people who have driven a 240 around without the pump working for a while have had similar experiences once the car is running right again. Is this a sign of other unresolved problems, or is it A-OK? Or worse, is there any chance that I seated the sending unit assembly in a way that would cause extra noise to be generated?

I am prepared to get used to it, but I am curious as to whether I should.

I'll need to start and run the car for several more days before I will be able to say "definite improvement in performance, but I think it is.
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

Hi AB,

I recently replaced the pump and sender unit on my 93 green wagon. The airtex pump made so much noise I returned it and got another, which after replacing made the same amount of noise. That time I must have pulled a connection off with the sender because the fuel gauge stopped working.

I removed the unit, again, resoldered the sender connection. The noise of the pump never changed and the fuel gauge worked for about two weeks. I guess my soldered connection wasn't as professional as it needed to be, but that's the subject of a future episode of in the tank. Likely it (appears to) make as much noise as it does not because its an airtex pump, but because I have literally nothing - no sound - to compare it to because who knows how long the original pump wasn't working. A comrade here commented that he prefers to hear the noise of his airtex - that way he knows the pump is working. I've also taken his advice to check the in tank pump at every oil change.

On the plus side, once I get rolling, especially now that I've put the snow tires on, the noise rapidly diminishes and soon goes away altogether.

Marty Wolfson

Proud member of the 300K club

Thanks, Ole. Sounds like I'm just going to have to get used to it running correctly. I've been considering a new stereo, anyway.
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

Disregard; I spoke too soon:

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1581531/220/240/260/280/transfer_intank_install_snafu.html
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

Thanks again as always. I believe, parts availability permitting, that the job will come off this weekend. Watch this space for panicked cries for assistance. ;)
--
1980 242 B21F5 M45 "Inga'

charset=utf-8

antbar, you really are digging up the old threads, aren't you?

Read the replies to the original post in this thread. You really don't need the high volume pump unless you're a suspenders and a belt type. Art mentions the Delco pump. ipd sells this as do others, probably for less money. I also like the Airtex tank pump. Stay away from their main pumps, though.

To test one or the other or both pumps

(for cars with 16 fuses)

For cars '79 - '84 pull fuse 5 and get power from any "always hot" fuse 6 thru 10

For cars '85 & later pull fuse 4 and get power from any "always hot" fuse 6 thru 10.

Keep the ignition off, take the key out of the switch.

Pull either fuse 4 or 5 according to the year (see above). This is the tank pump fuse.

Now you need to power the pumps. Connect a jumper wire from any hot fuse (see above) and put the other end to the left prong of the tank pump fuse slot. This will cause the main pump to run. You will hear it. It sounds like an electric drill.

Take the same jumper wire and put it to the right prong of the tank pump fuse slot. This will run the tank pump. In a quiet environment you should be able to hear it. It should emit a high pitched whine. In a noisy environment you may not be able to hear it unless you go to the back of the car. In some cases you may have to remove the gas cap and listen at the filler neck. The reason for this is that tank pumps seem to run quieter over time. Unless of course you buy a really cheap aftermarket brand that conks out after about two weeks. Then you won't hear it at all.

Given both pumps are working, you may want to run them both at the same time to test line pressure. To do this, don't remove the tank pump fuse. Just jumper the hot fuse to either side of the tank pump fuse and both pumps will run. Remember, ignition off and key out of switch.



--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Sorry no reply in a couple of weeks to this very helpful message. I lost track of which threads I had replied to and which I had not. Anyway, I went right out and did the test as described, and my in tank pump is definitively done for. I have been up to my armpits in other alligators the last couple of weeks, but I believe I will get to this project in a week or so.

Thanks again so much to Art and Bulletproof; you guys have really given me a lot of support lately and I am extremely grateful. My car is kind of taking off as a result of this momentum, and I'm starting to consider a full rolling restoration a real possibility!

Those were very well written instructions. Clear and concise.

I've added this simple test to the oil change routine after experience taught me one may go years without knowing this tank pump has failed.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour.

I sure wouldn't go for the "upgrade."

Assuming your subject 240 is something like a '91 maybe, the original tank pump was a Chevy part to begin with -- carefully engineered to not outlast the car (AC Delco). True, the aftermarket pumps have had defects, but so have those supplied by the Volvo dealership. Nothing about the long one promises more in initial quality or longevity, just increased volume, good for k-jets, maybe.

In The Tank
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead to know basis.

Hello, I use the Ford in-tank pump 1987 to 1989. Its 18.00 and works perfect and it comes with the sock. Just installed one the other day, exact same size as Volvo pump.

1987 FORD F-250 7.5L 460cid V8 : Fuel/Air : Fuel Pump 16. and change at Rock auto.

Don't bother, you don't need extra fuel volume. Save your money for something you need.
Dan

I agree with Dan, unless you've got a turbo or have some other fuel system additions that require higher than spec flow (like a V-8 engine), I'd just put the same OEM pre-pump back in. The pre-pump just keeps the main pump from working too hard. It keeps the fuel from cavitating in the main pump. If you add a higher flow pre-pump on a NA 4 cylinder, it's kinda over-kill. With the longer pre-pump, you have to cut the metal siphon tube shorter by about an inch - possibly a little more - and then the bigger pre-pump makes it more difficult to get back through the tank top-hole - oh, and one last thing - If the larger pre-pump is somehow defective...you now have a sending unit that is one inch too short for an OEM spec pre-pump....and a new sending unit is....um...not cheap.

If I remember correctly the Pump in the kit is for the 700 series.Just copy the part # when you have to replace.
I put the Kit in my 82 244DL in 2004 & was very pleased.

I put a in-tank pump into a sedan almost 5 years ago and its still running. Not sure what brand but you might try and see if a local Napa shop has one and if where is it made.

I like Carter pumps, they tend to be a little louder then most but they hold up well. Plus, I like that I can hear the pump working at idle.

If your running a stock setup, I wouldn't bother 'upgrading' or trying the keep it oem. All this little pump needs to do is feed the main pump. If your going to throw money at something, you could make life a bit easier on yourself and get the special bung tool IPD sells for removing the fuel sender.
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1990 240 Wagon, 1984 Turbo Wagon, 1971 1800E Auto, 1971 1800E 4-Speed