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Piston retractor for our Stationary Calipers

http://www.diseno-art.com/products/tools/brake_piston_retraction_tool.html

Has anyone used a tool like this for their Volvo? I know I always slide the old pads out a bit and squeese them with pliers to retract them.
Motorcycles have the same multi Piston configuration and I was looking at a nicer way then Pliers to compress the pistons. It's tough to get pliers in there so I end up pulling the caliper off and fighting with it.
Any other recommended tool for multi piston Calipers??
I did Brakes on the Bike last night and it reminded me that I need a better way.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html








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Piston retractor for our Stationary Calipers

I always use a 6" C-clamp on an old pad.








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Piston retractor for our Stationary Calipers

I'm with Pete here, when the caliper is off the car. That tool with the paddles is meant to get in with the rotor is in place, needing only 1/4" clearance instead of the 1" my C-clamp would need.

If the pistons won't retract easily and smoothly with the nudge of a BF screwdriver or channel locks, and you need the power of a screw tool or C-clamp, you need to rebuild the caliper, off the car. For that, the special spreading tool is of no particular use.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

After a waitress asked if Yogi wanted his pizza cut into four or eight slices: "Four, I don't think I can eat eight."








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Piston retractor for our Stationary Calipers

Ahhh! But if you slide the pad out about an inch you can use the C-clamp angled against the protruding pad without removing the caliper. Big channel locks can do this too. I fear the BF screwdriver damaging the rotor, so I steer clear of that.

Your right about the force needed, though. I have rarely need to do more than slide the pad out an inch (or remove the pad entirely then re-insert it end-on the smaller side with pad surface against the disc, centered on both pistons. This gives more leverage than the pad sitting out an inch) and squeeze with my hands until the pistons are fully compressed. If it takes much more than that, suspect some other brake issues to crop up.







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