Dear Fellow Brickboarders,

Hope you're well. I need help to re-install the send unit. I have read the FAQs, thoroughly.

Problem: How to know when the unit is properly seated in the tank?

Help needed: at what position should be the four-wire connector at the top of the send unit, when the unit is properly seated? The four-wire connector, to which I refer, is that at the top of the send unit, where the wires go inside the fuel tank (not the grey plastic connector at the other end of wiring harness).

The FAQ instructions say to insert the send unit, with the barrel pointing towards the 3 o'clock position. It then must be rotated clockwise (to the right, as one faces the front of the car), so that the barrel points to 6 o'clock (back of the vehicle).

I can get the unit to seat, when the barrel points to the 3 o'clock position. This, though, seems wrong, to go by the FAQs.

It would be hugely helpful, if someone who has done this, can tell me at what clock position should be the four-wire connector, when the unit is properly seated.

I refer to the four-wire connector - easily seen (unlike the send unit's barrel, which is inside the tank) - because it cannot be confused with anything else at the top of the send unit.

Thanks for your help!!

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Jay, you of all people! You've probably succeeded at removal by now.

One thing I can think of that you may need to know for your 1995 940 (same setup as mine which I've done many times) is at installation, as briefly discussed in the FAQ, to use a loop of string (or fishing line) over the bottom clip on the fuel level sending unit barrel, feeding the ends of the loop out through the fuel return line. You pull back the spring loaded barrel by hand, tighten the loop and tie the ends around a neighboring nipple or around a nail placed over the fuel return line nipple (or just hold it). Once you've got the sender back in the tank and properly seated you untie the string and pull one end to retrieve the loop from the tank. This makes installation much simpler than removal. First install the rubber gasket in the neck then seat the sender into the rubber gasket (use a little lubrication). For a proper seal, ensure the face of the sender is going to be perfectly flat against the rubber gasket when it is fully seated -rock the sender to bump the barrel along the bottom of the tank as needed.

I assume you're replacing the main fuel pump. The original Bosch pumps are quite substantial and significantly more expensive than the aftermarket ones, notably the Hella one advertised as OE which turns out to be a rather small Walbro pump in a foam sleeve to bulk it up. I honestly don't expect them to have more than 1/3rd the life of the Bosch, but at that price I've been going with the Hella pumps and so far, so good.

FYI, the contacts in the fuel level sending units in 1994-1995 940s are somewhat prone to failure. There's a good picture of the problem in the current FAQ and I've had that problem with one of my 1995 940s, long since repaired with a mickey Mouse fix. Naturally you're supposed to replace the entire sending unit (sans pump). FCP Groton is currently selling them for the 1995 940 Turbo. I think they'd also fit a 1995 940 NA (unless the pump mount is slightly different), but would not fit a 1994 940 (the pump wiring and possibly the pump mount are different). You should certainly be able to swap just the problematic fuel level sending barrel between the FCP one and any 1994-1995 940. The other thing to do is try getting compatible parts from a 1994-1995 940 in a yard as discussed in the FAQ.
--
Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Dear Dave,

Hope you're well. I had little trouble removing the send unit, largely because I loosened the clamp on the rubber fuel filler hose - where it attaches to the steel filler pipe - and rotated the rubber hose out of the way. That left plenty of room to maneuver.

Re-insertion would have been smoother, with a diagram - or description - of the how the send unit is oriented in the tank. I posted such a description. If you think it worthwhile, I'll ask Steve to include it in the FAQs.

I used a send unit from a '94 940T, but took a sound - and seemingly lightly used - pump from another unit, that came out of a '95 960 (which used the same pump as the '95 940). The send unit from the '95 960 is not long enough to reach the tank bottom on a 940.

The pump for the '95 940/960 is bigger in girth than that for the '94 940, which used the two-pump system. Thus, the pump mounts are incompatible.

The the factory-original pump had just 71K on it, but plainly had been allowed to sit. The pump body had a film of rust, doubtless the result of condensation. I assumed, possibly wrongly, that water in the tank would not have done the pump much good.

I will de-construct the failed send unit, and report any findings. It may be that there was a film of corrosion on the contacts. If so, I'll clean them, re-assemble, and test with an ohm-meter.

Thanks again, for your helpful comments.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Just curious, why did you have to cut the fuel return line off the sender? My recollection is that both the fuel delivery and return lines are quick disconnect fittings (push-in plastic) on 940s, at least the 1995. That's unlike the PITA 740 sender fittings where the fuel delivery line is fused onto a barbed fitting -you have to bust your knuckles under the chassis trying to open the always frozen brass coupling between the hose and the gas line.

Yes, getting that rubber filler neck out if the way is necessary. First time I did the job I went so far as to take the filler neck right out. Now I don't bother to even loosen the clamp, just fold the end under the edge of the chassis and keep pushing it back whenever it comes wandering out. Same as I often just hold the loop of string on the side of the unit during installation (the string used to retract the barrel during installation that normally gets fed up through the return line and secured). Don't even bother to cuss any more while doing the job, but there's always the initial disappointment in having to do it. I do still shudder whenever I think of the day I confidently diagnosed and replaced a pre-pump in a relative's 240, connecting the black wire to the negative terminal (the normal thing to do) then after leaving town, I had to send them to a mechanic when the car wouldn't go over 5 km/hr (it had revved just fine in neutral for me), only to be informed later that the pre-pump was mis-wired and running backwards -aarrgghh!.

Have a good Hallowe'en, Spook!
--
Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Spook:
I fought this battle last week and I agree that a flashlight helps to orient you. I had the best luck inserting the sending unit pointing toward the left rear tire and rotating into the approximate position by turning the unit counterclockwise. The hardest part for me was the final positioning of the sending unit/pump inlet in the center portion of the splash pan inside the tank. I just kept fiddling with it (for about 2 hours on 2 separate days) and all of a sudden it slipped into place. The first time I thought I had it and forced it the last 1/2", but it must have been hung up, because I had my wife run it until it started coughing due to lack of fuel. Then when she filled it up, it took 2 less gallons than it should have, so I knew the pump inlet wasn't in the correct position. Another hour of manipulating fixed it.

Dear Marlin,

Hope you're well. Thank you, for your reply. I just posted some possible revisions to the FAQs, to make it clear why the send unit needs to be installed, as described in the FAQs.

After removing the send unit, and looking in the tank, I thought that the send unit was supposed to "nest" into the baffles. I later figured out, that the baffles are in front of the send unit's barrel, the bottom end of which - when seated properly - is at the bottom of the tank, and parallel with the tank's rear-facing wall.

Everything button-up fine and the fuel gauge now works.

Thanks again, for your comments.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks, Spook! No wonder I had so may problems. I was trying to get it to sit in the center of the baffles (looks like a white square bowl in mine). Your detailed descriptions are always appreciated.
Marlin

Hello
done this 5-6 times. did one yesterday.
there is a hose that connects on top that basically sits at the 12 o clock position which puts the whole assembly vertically level.
what helped me is having a good flashlight.
you can not just install/seat the sender then rotate the sender it will not work like this as it will hit the portion of the big bowl it sits in. (possibly knocking off the sock)
get the sender in there loosely and with the top of the sender in your hand and a flashlight for seeing better tilt the whole assembly towards you then make sure it goes into the bowl thing in the bottom of the tank then seat sender.
put rubber ring in tank first and grease up good.
hope this helps.
good luck
Mike

Hi Mike,

Just curious about this, and I know you will know: Is the 95 Bosch system in-tank pump and sender any different from the 92 Regina one I wrote up here and saw edited into the FAQ? I didn't even make a note on reassembly, which for me, means there wasn't anything but reversing disassembly needed.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

You got to be careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there. -- Yogi Berra

hello Art
i am not positive as my memory isnt the greatest.
i believe the 95 sender is the same and kinda remember two of the wires in the electrical connector are in different locations inside the connector and have to be carefully swapped around.
the rex regina car we just junked had the same setup as the one in your pictures and i did away with that square thingy.
i should document my findings better i guess.
good luck
Mike

Dear Art and Mike,

Hope you're well. Thank you, for your usual prompt and on-point replies.

The answer: the four-wire connector points to the 2 o'clock position, when the send unit is properly seated.

To the FAQ text I'd add. "The fuel send unit is located next to the back wall of the fuel tank. The fuel pump intake (the end with the filter "sock") needs to point straight down (towards the tank bottom) and to be parallel to the tank's rear wall. The reason: when going uphill with little fuel, the fuel will pool in back of the tank (towards the vehicle's rear), where the pump can draw from it.

To get the fuel send unit seated, it is necessary to swing it to your right (as you face the front of the car) so the end of the "barrel" can clear the in-tank baffles. Then, the top of the send unit needs to be lifted slightly and rotated forward (towards the front of the car). This allows the end of the barrel to point straight down. You can then lower the unit into place."

I'd also add that, "To remove the send unit from the tank, I used a flat-blade screwdriver, with a wide tip (3/8") and a rubber mallet. I did not want to pull on the tubes, that go through the sender's top. Even if I had been willing, the top fits so snugly into the gasket, that no amount of pulling was going to budge the unit. I tapped gently against the sender unit's top lip. I reminded myself that using steel on (old) plastic, required me to go slowly. The send unit backed out just fine.

On re-installing, I applied white lithium grease to the clamps, before re-installing."


Also, I cut the fuel return hose, about 3/4" from the end, to remove it. There was enough slack in the hose, so re-connection was easy. That section of hose is about 8" long, so replacing it would not have been hard.

How say you?

Yours faithfully,

Spook

hello
any info on the difference if any from the 95 940 sending unit to the earlier 940- sending units.
yes i know the pump is different.
but any other info?
thanks

Hello spook,

Having done this a few times myself, I'd like to add a point for the FAQ's as well.
The vent hose coming off the fill tube hose & going to the top of the tank attaches to a molded barb fitting on the tank. It is NOT a robust fitting. Any wiggling of the fill hose can apply undue stress to the fitting so it will crack. Don't ask me how I know. Great care should be taken when flexing the fill hose so as not to overstress the fitting.
--
1999 E320 1994 F150 1989 560 SL 1986 560 SL (deceased) 1988 300 TE (departed) 1994 945T (daughter's) 1988 244DL (fallow) 1986 242Ti (fallow) 1968 GT500KR (under restoration)