Are there any tricks to installing the steering rod on the end of the rack. As far as I can see it appears to be a simple matter of screwing the rod into the rack, taking care not to damage the teeth of the rack. Not sure if I should use a thread lock fluid or if that will make future repairs extremely difficult.

I finally figured out how to install the bellows, using STP as a lubricant for the rubber. Worked like a charm. I now know that the line at the top of the bellows is to allow air to move back and forth between the two bellows.

Bob

Jorgen have rebuilt 240 racks at about $215USD. One year warranty and they provide you with a prepaid shipping label to return your old rack. (You pay them $365 - plus shipping - and get $150 back when they get your core). They have a good reputation. I have the Volvo manuals and the rack rebuild process is scary - lots of special tools needed. I would not trust a local mechanic for this. Buying a rebuild from NAPA and the like will get you a Jorgen (or similar) unit with a hefty markup. You pay for convenience.

The rebuilt racks usually come with inner tie rods installed along with the dust boots. Jorgen do this.

If you are in Canada - like me - mailorder gets a bit more complicated and expensive with cross-border shipping, duties and customs brokerage, but still probably cheaper than a NAPA.

If you are installing inner tie rods yourself, get new peening ("foldover") washers from Volvo. Get the genuine article and don't trust a thread locking liquid. This is a very critical safety item. If Volvo thought thread lockers were an acceptable substitute for the washers they would use them for faster/cheaper assembly at the factory.

My Volvo manual calls for a counterholding wrench on the rack gear (there is a flat ground on the driver's side end for the purpose) when torquing on it to install or remove the inner tie rods. Otherwise you can damage the internal gears.
--
Bob: son's 81-GL, dtr's '94-940, my 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.

This is the most sensible info in this thread yet. Get a reman rack.

Things to note about the later CAM racks on 200/700/900 and the TRW racks on the -95 960's:
When there are no flats on the inner ball joint, the rod end is secured by a peen as mentioned. The peen is on top of the rack and not accessable from below. Volvo repair manuals for the TRW say to use a right angle grinder to remove the peen while the rack is on the car, but putting on a new tie rod is nearly impossible to peen the end with a punch on top while the rack is in the car, so the best procedure is to lower the rack or remove it entirely to facilitate removing and re-doing the peen. Loctite is not good enough. You can buy replacement tie rods with flats and get the Volvo locking washers.

On 240, 740 and early 940's that have the CAM rack with smooth ends, Volvo does not reccomend replacing the tie rods, but only the rack itself if anything is worn. In most cases, the rack is worn at the same time the inner ends are worn out.

If it leaks and the inner ends are worn, you're ready for a new rack.

FCP Groton sells reman racks for $249 w/free shipping (US), lifetime warranty, and no core charge. I have bought 3 of them for my Volvo's and no problems on any, current dd has one with 110k mi on it now. Get one.

I can get a Jorgen rebuilt rack for $201US plus $63 shipping. This sounds like the best I can find at the moment. There will be customs charges, etc., when it arrives in Canada so I will probably be pretty close to $500CAN after all is said and done.

In the interim I am having a look at the old rack to see if I could simply replace some seals and get it going again. Why not? It was working fine before I noticed the torn bellows and thought I should replace that item. It certainly wasn't using a lot of power steering fluid and the steering was as good as it has always been.

Jorgen wants my old rack so I will keep it in some kind of shape for them.

Bob

Realistically there is no way to fix a leaking rack, other than a rebuild with the specialized expertise and tools. The seals require rack disassembly, and are special, tight tolerance items for the high fluid pressures in the rack.

Your choices are two: live with the leak or replace the rack.

When importing mail order items from the States, try to get the supplier to ship by the US Postal Service. They then pass it along to Canada Post who charge only a nominal amount for brokerage. Of course you have to pay any applicable duty and then HST on the duty-paid total cost.

UPS and FedEx charge an unconscionable amount for their "brokerage service".
--
Bob: son's 81-GL, dtr's '94-940, my 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.

volvodad

I was given an option to have the rack shipped for $63US and that is what i have gone for. It will take about a week to get here. If I can avoid fedex or the other private shipper I always do that. Surprising how many Americans think their postal system is full of thieves and that they have to use expensive private shipping. Looking at fox news too much!

Many thanks for your input. Much appreciated.

Bob

Thanks for all your advice on this thread. I have taken your advice and now awaiting my Jorgen rack and pinion to arrive. When I get it installed I will let you know how I am making out.

I am just keeping my thumbs crossed that I cannot screw up the connection between the shaft and the steering column.

Bob

".Jorgen wants my old rack so I will keep it in some kind of shape for them."

As is customary, they will bill you a $100 "core charge" which will be revoked when they get your old rack and find it suitable for rebuilding.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hi Volvodad,

I just found your reply. I will use Google to try to find Jorgen but I would appreciate an URL from you if you have one conveniently at hand.

I can get a used one from my supplier in Nanaimo who also runs a Volvo wrecking yard between Nanaimo and Victoria. This will cost $375. I will find out what kind of warranty I can get on that.

Lordco wants $532. This will end up around six hundred I figure.

I now have the rack off the car and have had a look at the Haynes manual.

I wondered if I could just get the arms off and replace the end O rings to see if I could stop the leaking.

This all started because I noticed a torn boot on the driver's side inner tie rod. The alignment folks said I needed a new ball joint and that the inner tie rod was too loose. Thus the attempt to change the inner tie rod and the finding that its collar had been peened over into the groove in the rack. I cannot find a flat on the rack, by the way, that would allow me to hold it while I turn the tie rod [which does have a flat that will take a large open end wrench.

I will probably take it to Nanaimo in the near future and get their opinion. Thanks for your input.

Bob

Hello,


I'd really put some force into removing the tie rod, like with a pipe wrench.

http://www.jorgenauto.com/rack-pinion/volvo.html


Goatman

Hi Goatman,

Are you sure that is a good idea? The collar of the tie rod is at least 1/16 inch thick and has been driven into the groove of the steering rack about an eighth of an inch or so. Looks pretty secure to me. I do have a friend with large wrenches who could supply me with the correct size wrench to give it a good pull. Just a little worried that I could damage the rack if I put too much torque on it.

I had a look at your website by the way. Interesting!

Bob [aka muskox37]

Peening is how it's supposed to be done. No need for thread lock.

I'm not sure why you think you need to remove the rack. You should be able to free it up with a chisel or punch. Then turn it out with an open end wrench. I can't recall what size but there are, or should be, flats on the rod end for this purpose. If not use vise grips or the like.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Bob,


I like birds. I replaced my tierods last week and gave that peening the bird. Honestly, I just used channellocks and it came right off. Only after observing the parts, did I realize that it was fastened in such a way. Ignorance for me was bliss, in this situation.


Goatman

Hello Goatman,

I have now removed the rack. It was pretty disgusting and probably had been leaking for quite some time but I now have everything cleaned up and am looking at either buying another one or rebuilding this one.

It will cost me about six hundred dollars after taxes for a rack so it is worth looking at alternatives.

I am thinking that if I can get the "arms" off the rack I could replace the o rings at least and this might put an end to the leaking.

I am planning to take the rack to my local friendly Volvo outlet and will ask the mechanic about the peening problem and the removal and installation of the new inner tie rod.

I can buy a used rack from them for $375. They are the local face of a Volvo auto wrecking yard and I have some confidence in them.

Haynes Manual has information on rebuilding the rack but I haven't found anything available on the internet yet. It would be nice to have some pictures.

Bob

"It will cost me about six hundred dollars after taxes for a rack so it is worth looking at alternatives."

Did you read Bob's (Volvodad from BC) post up top? A rebuilt rack direct from http://www.jorgenauto.com/rack-pinion/volvo.html complete with new boots and steering rods must be a whole lot less that $600, even with cross-border expenses.

Their base price for a '79-'93 204 rack is $201.95 + $29.95 for shipping, which includes a Fed-Ex pickup slip for the core return. Give then a call and ask about Canadian shipping.

Also, IMO rebuilding a rack is way out of the DIY realm.


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hello,


If you are using Volvo or TRW brand, you should never have to change them again.

I purchased some MOOG branded parts that were defective. They made a grinding sound when moved back and forth.

Use loctite red when installing. Yeah, it might be hard to remove in some distant land in the future, but if the tierod comes off on the highway, you may have no future.


Goatman

Wow, is all of this stuff put together! I have now discovered that a part of the inner tie rod collar has been peened into a groove in the steering rack. There is no way I can get the inner tie rod off without removing the rack.

Ok. What now?

I called ipd and they don't sell steering racks. They suggested NAPA. I called there and they don't have a supply of them. I'd be looking at six to eight weeks for one to arrive. They will rebuild a rack for five hundred dollars and I would still be looking at the wait.

This is all in Canada by the way.

Has anybody rebuilt a steering rack themselves? If so, what are the problems getting seals, etc.

I do have a supplier locally who has a wrecking yard so I can get a used one for about $350US. But I wouldn't mind taking on a rebuild myself if it is at all feasible. I can get by without the car for a month or so.

Bob

Hi Gentlemen

Is what you are discussing the cause of the annoying "CLUNK" when driving over a spped bump or pot hole? Mine has been doing that for a while and I really don't have much knowledge or experience regarding suspension. Thanks

Not likely the tie rod, its wear is noticable side to side.
Likely the ball joint (fix it!) or the sway bar chassis bushings (not critical).
Maybe strut bearings, but unlikely (they go forever).
--
84 242Ti IPD bars&springs, 89 745 16v M46 IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPD bars, 93 945 Turbo AW71, 91 245SE AW70 IPD bars, 93 245 CLassic M47