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Brake light circuit board 200 1991

The “light out indicator” went on in my wife’s 91 sedan and would not turn off, even though all of the lights were working. I did notice that some were turning dark, in their glass, so I went and spent 20 dollars replacing all of the bulbs “same brand”. Now…the passenger side brake light does not work and the parking light cuts off when brakes are applied. I swapped the brake light bulb holders and had the same response. I looked at the printed circuit and it looks like it is worn away at the light connection so I am ordering a new one right now from vlvworld. Is there a temporary fix to the circuit board so she will not get pulled over by local PD? Can I use aluminum foil to complete the connection? I have tried to adjust the bulb holder to avoid the bad spot and it burned out the 8-amp fuse. Is that a bad sign?

Also, on the same day this started my 92 wagon drivers side brake light went out and even after replacing the bulb it wont turn back on. However, I noticed it’s not on a printed circuit and everything looks good.

Have I brought home a brake light gremlin in the hidden compartment of the wagon? Is there a trap I can place to catch him? What kind of bait would I use? If I park next to someone else’s 240 will he jump in their car and leave mine alone?








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    Brake light circuit board 200 1991

    Not much good news from me on this subject -- it is a 240 sedan thing.

    You'll likely find behind the flex circuit where it is damaged, the plastic is deformed by the spring contact pressure. The cycle is moisture - oxidation/corrosion - poor contact - resistance - heat - poorer contact pressure - more resistance - more heat.

    Aftermarket lamps are more prone, but genuine volvo lenses aren't what they used to be either. It can get expensive, fast. So those in my family that no longer need my attention have drain holes drilled in the lenses and harness wires run directly to the lamp sockets.

    Replacing the circuit board is only a temporary fix.
    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once.








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      Brake light circuit board 200 1991

      Ok, so the fix to the brake light problem is (1) to drill holes in the light housing--to prevent moisture build up? And (2) hard wire the brake lights, back up lights, and fog light to the wiring harness? To my understanding, you (Art) have done this...How well does it work? I have had holes in lights from stone chips and it causes the reflectors to rust. How did you bypass this or is it something that must be lived with? And where exactly do I drill and what size do I use? Second, I don’t have a clear understanding of the task of rewiring my rear end lights. Can I do this my self or do I need to get in touch with Daniel Stern lighting for equipment and instructions?
      Thank you for your advice.
      J.








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        Brake light circuit board 200 1991

        Try NOT fully turning the Socket into the Tail light assembly, that will hopefully let the socket touch a 'good' section of the Flexible circuit board.
        http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/PassengerTailLight.pdf
        --
        '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html








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        Brake light circuit board 200 1991

        Well, drilling the hole is what you do when you find the lens is full of water after a rain. You drill a 1/8" hole at the bottom of the water. The reason the lens filled up is the weld between it and the black plastic is incomplete - where you can't reach it, or like you know about, the lens has a crack in it. This is a low-tech approach to avoiding a new replacement lamp, used by lots of us brick owners.

        Wiring around the pesky circuit board is pretty low-tech too. Depending on how you do it, and there are many methods, you will trade serviceability for reliability. I would choose reliability (of the lighting) for my kids.

        It's hard to get context in these worm's-eye views, but if you've been examining your circuit board intermittents, you'll have the perspective.





        Getting around the problem just means eliminating the disconnectable contacts - meaning those between the lamp socket and circuit board, and between the harness connector and circuit board.

        Tony Hoffman has some pics showing one rewiring that I like, because it preserves the ability to take the tail lamp assembly completely out of the car, but you would need his custom board: http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/index.htm

        Here's a pic of how I used Tony's board: Sorry - link limit encountered.

        If that board isn't available, you'd just wire directly to the harness.

        --
        Art Benstein near Baltimore

        If speed counted, rabbits would rule the world.







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