so i have an 87 740 wagon turbo, and since i've owned it it has been a champ. second owner 180,000 miles. but in the last six monthes the car has begun to just quit running out of the blue, just be drivin along and it will just die. replaced fuel pump and filter(both) fuel relay, mass air, knock sensor,new exhaust,had the whole fuel injection taken off and checked , gone over all the wiring with a fine tooth comb. all work performed by I.P.D. here in portland. when the car runs it runs like a champ , good power good boost etc..... but i'm a thousand dollars in and it still does the same thing, recently it has died at highway speeds, never done that before. i can sometimes go weeks without it failing and then it'll die three times in a day.....totally confused. whats left, ecu, hall sensor.. here's the thing when it dies it will start right back up(most of the time) if i hold it to the floor.....like a old hot rod or something. and sometimes it smells like gas, but not all the time....any info would be helpfull...has anybody else ever experienced this problem in the 700 series. i know i cant be the only one...thanks todd

I'd look at the Hall sensor as the primary suspect. Actually the wire from the Hall sensor to where it leads into the wiring loom. '87 have bad wiring and it can show very odd symptoms, like the ones you describe... Take the wire and examine it carefully... If not that particular wire, then other wiring related problem is most likely what's causing your troubles... You do say that you have gone over the wiring but that's easier said than done unless you have replaced it.

Why not take her to a dealer? My dealer never charges more than 1 hour's labor for troubleshooting.

When the Hall sensor went on our '88 745 they had some monitoring equipment that they put on the car and they had to let it run for half a day to find the problem.

Once you replace the second component, you have proven that you have not found the problem, and maybe cannot find it.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 485,000 miles put on 9 bricks

If it doesn't restart right away and the tach doesn't jump a little when cranking the engine then it's probably the hall effect device on the distributor. Has the intank fuel pump ever been replaced? "Gone over the wireing". Just what was gone over? The 87's and earlier have the deteriorating engine wire insulation problems. There could be shorted wire's down inside the harness sheilding? Any connection with the weather? Happens more on wet days??

If it wont start, what do the plugs look like? Wet dry what?

Did you swap out the RSR relay, that's notorious.

Another thing to check is that the relay sockets
dont have really loose pins. the socket pins are simple
crimpon spade lugs and can get spread open and loose. recheck the fuel
relay socket.

service the ground connections and especially the one at the intake manifold.
Make sure the crimps are good.

Ignition switch? can you force it to fail by wiggling the switch?

Good luck, Bill

I had issues with the a spade connection in my fuel pump relay socket many years ago. It was terrible to trouble shoot because it would never stay down long enough to get my meter and determine the source.

Eventually I was able to find a 5 ohm resistence at spade connection of the fuel pump relay socket. It was a loose fit so I pressed the spade connection together so it had good contact.

Mine would only had occasional no starts, unless goint over bumpy tracks. Then it would stall.

Like you I changed out many other things. On the plus side, I became frustrated with mechanics inability to find the problem and learned everything I could about the LH 2.2 Injection system and EZK ignition and now do all my own work.



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Paul NW Indiana '89 744 Turbo 145K/ '90 745 turbo 127K

Hi Paul,

I'd guess that those socket lugs get beat over time with different hands yanking the relays out. I serviced all of the relay socket pins in the fuseblock and found a number of 'em that were pried open some, probably a result
of rough handling. They're easy to get out and crunch em back to normal with vise grips where it's easy to set the spacing you want.

I never found a source for replacement lugs with the little locking latch.
They must have been made by the trainload and someone must have them?

Bill

Hello,

FYI, almost all of the separate crimp connectors used on Volvo care are available right from Volvo.

Although pricey, some of them are only easily available from Volvo.

For example, Volvo used a very thin male blade connector with a locking tab that was designed to allow 2 of the blade connectors to be inserted in the place where a single thicker male blade will also fit. I can get the thicker male blade through the after market, but I can only buy the thin version from Volvo.

Because we always try to replicate the quality of the original connections, we have amassed a large collection of replacement crimp connectors, including the female blade connector with the locking tab to which you referred for 2 different thickness' of wire.

I even have original style Lucas bullet crimp connectors that require a special crimping tool that makes very small hexagonal crimps just like the originals for repairing the older wiring harness' on the earlier Volvo P1800 and 1800S.

Be advised that most of these crimp connectors require a pair of pliers that can do the required double crimps.

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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Do all the warning lights come when it dies?
Does the tach fall to zero?
Seeing all you have replaced, Fuel pressure regulator comes to mind. Pull the vacuum line off of it, if fuel dribbles out or you smell fuel, probably bad.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

NEW REGULATOR, SORRY I LEFT THAT OUT, NO THE WARNING LIGHTS DONT COME ON AND YES THE TACH FALLS TO ZERO. IT JUST LIKE IF I TURNED THE KEY OFF, NO WARNING SIGNS NOTHING ....JUST DIES??????????

NO THE WARNING LIGHTS DONT COME ON....
AND YES THE TACH FALLS TO ZERO...
JUST LIKE IF I TURNED THE KEY OFF...

But you hadn't turned the key off, right?

So there should be warning lights, with the key still in the ON position.
Could be the switch part is going iffy, which IS like turning the key off.

It's known to happen after 20 years or so.


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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

If you are having a total electrical failure, I would suspect battery cables.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Battery?