Hello,


Sometimes it is a good idea to find out how do do something before you actually try to do it. If you are taking your car to a shop, it’s nice to know what's going on and to be versed in case of any questions. Here you will find instructions on how to install a wheel bearing on a Volvo 240. The model pictured in the photos is a 1977 264 GL. The design changed slightly for the later models, but the concept is generally similar. This is the second of my posts about the subject and the first is about removing the wheel bearing. Good luck and have fun!!!

It’s kind of interesting, for a job so messy you have to be so clean! There are a few tools that you’ll need, all are pretty basic. Really, if you still have the tools you used to remove the wheel bearings (pliers, punch, hammer, wrench) you have all the tools you need to install it. For supplies, I like to have some butcher paper and nitrile gloves. You’ll need some rags, but what I like to use the most are white cotton handkerchiefs. They are great because they clean quick and leave no lint, unlike those red Chinese rags.

The grease I used and prefer is the Mobil 1 Synthetic cartridge. It’s about ten dollars and the grease is nice and thick, and I can unravel the cartridge case for clean and fresh product.


1. Clean the hub and install the outer race. I figured that it’d be neat to have a clean part to work and picture, I don’t like solvents and I took my hubs to the car wash to blow them out with the high pressure spray nozzle. This left them clean, but it left them wet. The one thing about steel parts, and especially bearings is that you don’t want them to rust. As soon as I got home from the car wash, I dried the hubs and set them in the sun to dry. Make certain that the hub is clean where the race sits. Any dirt will cause angular contact of the bearing surfaces, resulting in rapid wear over time. To install, using the old bearing race, I knocked the new one in. Make sure that you install the race in the correct orientation with the angle facing outward to receive the bearing cone. Strike in a alternating pattern, ensuring that the race does not cock in the hub.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/racedriver.jpg


2. Install the outer race. Flip the hub over and position the outer race on on the hub. You can use an old race to start drifting in the new part. but be careful not to knock the old race in with the new one, as the depth of the shelf is more then one width. After starting the race into the hub, I finished the fitting using a pin punch. My punch was softer then the hardened steel, so I used it. Make sure that the tool you select will not mar the bearing surface. Once the race is fully seated in the hub, the sound it makes when struck will change noticeably.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/drift.jpg


3. Prepare the workspace and clean the hub. I found some large pieces of paper in my shipping from FCP Groton. I laid them out over the ground where I would be working. This makes for a clean job and fast cleanup. After setting my parts, cleaned tools, and supplies on the paper, I began to install the hub on the spindle. The first step is to clean the hub and make sure that no particles remain on the bearing surfaces.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/cleanhub.jpg


4. Clean the spindle and install the grease seal. Make sure that no dirt or old grease remains on the spindle. Install the seal with the lip facing outward. Grease the lip of the seal.]

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/seal.jpg


5. Pack the inner bearing and install the seal runner. Donn some disposable gloves and place a glob of grease into your palm. smack the bearing into the grease until it streams out the opposite side. Place the bearing into the spindle. Replace your gloves and install the metal seal runner ring.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/sealrunner.jpg


6. Set the hub onto the spindle, pack the outer bearing, and place it on the spindle. Replace your gloves.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/outerbearing.jpg


7. Install the retaining washer. Place the large washer onto the spindle taking care to note that the side with the machined relief faces the bearing.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/washer.jpg


8. Adjust the wheel bearings. Install the castle nut with the notches facing outward, and using a 15/16" socket or offset wrench, tighten the nut. Once the nut is tightened down, rotate the hub ten rotations. Tighten the bearing again. Rotate the hub ten more times and observe that the nut tightens no further, then loosen the nut until there is no load on the bearing.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/wrench.jpg


9. Install a new cotter pin. I purchased a bag of 100 cotter pins at Grainger for $2. The size is 1/8" by 1". Although you may not be able to purchase from them, I’m sure that you can buy them at your local hardware store. This part is essential to holding your wheel on, so just pay the 2 cents for a new one! If the slot in the castle nut does not correlate with the hole in the spindle, turn the nut left to the next position and install the pin.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/cotter.jpg


10. Bend half of the pin upward using pliers.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/pliers.jpg


11. Lock the pin using a hammer. Using a hammer tamp the upward bent half of the pin into the spindle.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/tamp.jpg


12. Install the grease cap. Tap the cap onto the spindle using a hammer.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/cap.jpg


13. Install the brake rotor onto the hub. Place the rotor onto the hub taking care to note the position of the one or two locating screws. Tighten them using a open end wrench against one of the lugs as a counterhold. These do screws do not need to be superman tight, they are only locating the rotor.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/pins.jpg


14. Install the brake caliper. Using one hand to hold the outer pad forward, place the caliper onto the rotor and install the bolts holding the caliper. Don’t mangle the soft nickel lines.

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/caliperscrew.jpg


15. Install the wheel. Your done!!!

http://www.unm.edu/~goatman/bearing/done.jpg


Goatman


References:

SKF Wheel end bearing and seal installation guide

Timken Wheel Bearing Replacement - Automotive

Done this job on my 1988 model

One problem I have:
If I thighten the nut by the Timken method (torque, loosen, retourque, loosen, adjust play) I habe clunk in the wheel bearing, encountered play after 1000 miles.

okay, I can readjust the play. But where comes it from?
Do new bearings settle that much?

Or is it better to pre-tension the bearings a little bit?

any advice welcome...

cheers!
Michael

The term you are looking for is "up and touching." No play cold.

Torquing the spindle means to stretch the spindle that "sets" the bearings moving members up to minimum play as they are tapered. It seats the biggest and smallest as it rotates to keep an average fit up.

You want "fit up" to be your "running fit." Not tighten down to a point that's it's tighten up.

You want or need to allow for rolling clearances as things warm up but not be loose, just up and touching so the members roll and not wander out of their intended path under loading.

I use torque values 25 foot pounds to seat them and 15 to 25 inch pounds after backing off the two slots and pull it back up to slot that aligns to the cotter pin hole with this "inch" variable pound reading.

If you do not have a inch pound wrench you can use one to two foot pounds maximum. You can set a clicker to the lowest setting of even a zero. There is a tolerance given on each pound reading that if if it clicks you are really close. Adjust to how it feels to you.

Bottom line...
You should not have play but a held in place and free rolling wheel when done.
Hand fitting is your final indicator....experience!

By the way, this was an old post you found but done well with lots of information.

Phil

Thanks, machine man, for this usefull information.

"I use torque values 25 foot pounds to seat them and 15 to 25 inch pounds after backing off the two slots and pull it back up to slot that aligns to the cotter pin hole with this "inch" variable pound reading."

Now it is clear for me that the roller bearings will get a little pre-tension as it is done in normal machinery equipment.

Cheers !
Propshaft (from Europe)

Thanks to Goatman, indeed!

When one only has a Haynes manual, even teh final 1997 imprint, it's wrong on the front wheel bearing service ...

If I may, we do have an excellent recent entry on the Volvo 240 rear hub assembly service with focus on rear wheel bearing treatment by our brickboard member 83GLT.

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1614647&show_all=1

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1615172/220/240/260/280/brakesuspensionsteeringwheel_bearing_job_victory_sort.html

Consider this a cautionary tale when we do not treat the rear wheel bearings. If we repacked the grease like every 50-100k, you may not need to replace the bearing assembly (two seats, bearing assembly, and two seals). Made by both Timken and SKF. Dunno who makes the seals. They are a weird blue color.

When you withdraw the rear axle shaft from the tube, you must support the weight of it at the end and slightly lift up. You do this as you do not want the axle weight on the seals, should you be able to reuse the bearing as they only need a new grease pack (check for grease compatibility! An NLGI-2, yet dunno lithium or aluminum soap complex, or something else, Volvo used at the factory, or cleanse for the new grease you use). Both the inner and outer rear wheel bearing seals are metal reinforced, and can bend, ruining them. So, support the rear axle as you withdraw it.

So, what about them U-joints on the steering shaft? Can't get them OEM anymore. Critical.

Hope that helps.

cheers,

dud.

Front Wheel Bearing replacement procedures and part numbers. 200

by Brickboard.com member FitzFitzgerald on Tue Sep 9 17:40 CST 2003.

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=682877

Hope that helps.

Duffed.
--
The Volvo 164: The Mightiest of All Volvo Automobiles in Perpetuity

I just followed Goatman's great instructions to do the front passenger side bearings and races last night. Tonight I'll be doing the driver's side.
Posts like this from Goatman are why the Brickboard is such a great place.

When installing the inner bearing retainer do you drive it down to seat on the inner race or only flush with the outside of the hub?

Hello Goatman,

Very nice writeup and very attractive grease. Is that what Mobil 1 synthetic looks like?

Wrt the grease seal, I'd suggest that it not be installed on the spindle too deep. Better to leave it closer to the edge so when the hub is installed it forces the seal in making certain a good sealing contact.

I just did this job earlier in the week. I should have used that pretty grease.

Marty Wolfson

Proud member of the 300K club.

Thanks Goatman,

Nice write up. Thanks.

How is the headlight/landing light project going?

Hi,


I’ve been focused on my studies lately, but I fitted one up in the housing. It seemed to fit ok, The bulb is a little deeper.

I’ve been thinking about the Hella Halogen Cibie’s for the second position, for which I could fit a dual filament bulb to retain a low/high beam, and have the bright aircraft lamps for special use only.


Goatman

Quad Headlamp Par 46 Aircraft Landing Lamp Subsitution

I appreciate this detailed and illustrated write up--it helped out when I was inspecting and adjusting my front wheel bearings on an 84 244 (and I'm glad that I did because I discovered a broken cotter pin that was just about to fall out). However, I would add that on my car and perhaps all those with the later integrated castle nut/washer design, the castle nut is 27mm, not 24mm. You also have to use a larger cotter pin to fit the larger nut--the 1/8 x 1" did not seem long enough.

Thanks!


I'm glad you were able to find the problem before something happened.

Do you know the exact size of the cotter pin you used?


Goatman

it measures 1 1/4" from the bottom of the eye to the end of the shorter leg.

just as an aside on the tightening methods outlined in various threads and the bentley book--it seems incredibly difficult to accurately torque the nut to 13 inch pounds while turning the wheel. I'm assuming people have very high-grade torque wrenches for this? Also, the figure quoted in various places for 1/16" play at the wheel is quite far off from the SKF website document (thanks for linking to that, Goatman) which says .001-.01". I ended up just doing it by feel so that I backed it off a fraction of a turn from where I first felt binding on the bearing. I don't get much play when I grab the tire and shake...I hope it isn't too tight.

Yeah,


1/16 inch is way too much.

There should be no perceptible play. If you removed the clearance like I said in step eight, then you should be fine.


Goatman

you know, other than Porsche and Mercedes what have an infinite adjustment for such front bearings, I've never been able to get so little play on front wheel bearings. I did mine on the 86 the other week and just like the first old Chevy truck I did this job on umpteen years ago, one notch in the castle nut is tighter than I like and one back gives a little play. I haven't had one crap out yet so I guess it isn't the end of the world.

Wolf,


I know what you mean.

Most bicycles have the locking nut to infinitely adjust the ball bearing hubs.

A difficulty lies in the fact that when you apply force tighten the locking nut, force is also invariably applied to the adjustment nut. It is still a neat idea.


Goatman

btw your post should be used as a model for clarity and concision.

What motivated you to replace them?

Anything like when your kid comes home from school and says "this car really hums around the corners, Dad" and you find this?


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The butcher backed up into the meat grinder and got a little behind in his work.

Art,


The bearings were a bit worn and made a slight marble noise. It was a convienent time to replace them when I had the car on jackstands.

Oh BTW, I don't plan on having a kid anytime soon.


Goatman

Great instructions. Perfect pictures.... you should write a book! :) Thanks. This is one of those projects that I'm going to have to get to real soon, so it's nice to know what I'm up against. I haven't done wheel bearings since 1975.
--
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=53563&id=1189132524&l=75a2564d60

Jim,


I'm glad you liked it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Hello,

A technique we use around our shop is to cut a slot into the old race after it is removed to use as an installation tool.

With a slot cut through the old race, you can use the old race to drive the new race all the way in even though old race will be partially countersunk into the hub.

After the new race is completely seated, you can grab the old race from either side, but only one side of the slot and while rotating towards the slot, the old race can be removed.

It is a good idea to deburr both side of the outer surface of the slot to prevent damage to the hub and to ease removal from the hub.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Eric,


That’s a great idea.

Thanks!


Goatman

Excellent post. You really did spell it out nicely. I will refer to this on my next replacement.

Posts like yours are what make the Brickboard a treasure for Volvo owners.

Thanks.
--
Happy Motoring! 93' 244 and 2002 S60