After getting into the trunk of a 240 at the wreckers and whacking away with a long screwdriver and hammer for awhile, I decided to make a tool to remove in-tank fuel senders.

Basically, it just requires a sturdy "H" with legs about 2-1/2" long to clear the pipes.

I had spare shelf standards - the slotted ones that bolts to the wall and take brackets. Cut two 6" lengths, and bolted them to a metal plate the proper distance apart.

Legs hook the bung. Torque applied to the upper "H" with a long screwdriver.

Maybe an "X" using the standards would also work.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

Pretty neat tool, thanks for sharing!

I've had fairly good luck using two great big screwdrivers crossed.

I'm not seeing this idea. Can you post a photo? I had a dickens of a time getting off the lock ring, and while I'm hoping never to have to do it again, I'd like to see what you came up with.

Marten

A trip to Home Depot, $3 and 2 hrs later I had this:
[IMG]http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn193/prhy720/Volvo%20Parts/Fuel%20Tank%20Tool/FuelTankTool_01.jpg[/IMG]

It's not an exact copy of the IPD tool, close, but think I improved it with my design. It was easy to fabricate it with a hacksaw, bench vise, 1/2 drill and a file to open the hole for the 1/2 drive square end.
The key in making a tool that is useful, you need to have a part of the tool that can support your vertical weight to press down while turning, and a big 'U' shapped tool is the best.
I also put it in my convection oven at 550 deg for 2 hrs and quenched it to give it some temper, but that was probably not absolutely necessary.

"I also put it in my convection oven at 550 deg for 2 hrs and quenched it to give it some temper, but that was probably not absolutely necessary."

If you made it out of mild steel it probably made no difference at all other than maybe turn the shiny places blue.

If you are going to quench a piece of steel to make it harder you have to get it up to the transformation temperature first. If you don't, you normally make it softer. For most common steels, that would be in the neighborhood of 1500°F or hotter. Mild steel doesn't have enough carbon to make heat treating worthwhile.

You're probably right, at least mostly.
Time at temperature is also a consideration, and even temperatures as low as 550 deg F can temper steel if you leave it at the temperature long enough to have the steel molecules arrange them selves, something an oven at 1500 deg can do in a few minutes. My treatmet wasn't very long, as 4-6 hrs may have been better. I also slow cooled the tool to ~400 deg, more like an annealing process, then quenched in a bucket of water.
It did some good, as I tested the material afterward and compared to a non-treated piece, and the treated tool was not only harder to bend, but filing the metal was more difficult, and a drop test showed a dicidedly higher pitch note than the thud of the non treated steel. Again probably not necessary for the usefulness of the tool, but a nice science experiment. I have too much time on my hands. lol

Smart idea!