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I can feel the Crank Position Sensor on the bell housing (engine left side), but cant see it. What tools are needed to get it off so it can be replaced as I am working in the blind.
I am also replacing the coolant temp sensor which is located under #2 intake in the head. It has a single yellow wire coming out of it. What is needed to get this sensor out of the head and replaced.
Thanks
Frank
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Art wrote:
"The 93 is a bear, because of the AC accumulator being right where your elbow needs to be. It is a 10mm head on that M6 bolt you need to remove, and my tool of choice is a stubby combination wrench, although most on this board will give you a recipe with universal joints, sockets, and extensions, going in from up top."
A spiffy 10mm GearWrench brand ratcheting box wrench with the flexi-head makes quick and easy work of this task. I gotta say that the GearWrenches have been my favorite tool purchase next to my air compressor.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Thanks Ryan and will the regular 10mm flex-head wrench do the trick or must I get the stubby one.
Thanks
Frank
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Thanks for the tips on the crank sensor Art.
I am having a hard strarting issue. The car starts fine when cold, the IAC runs up nicely the settles back to normal. Starts on about two cranks.
After driving and warmed up it may take 20 cranks to restart, but always does. It is an intermittent issue.
I have checked everything possible. I put a 92 celcius thermo in it recently, but see no reason why that should make this a hot start problems, unless I am missing something about the thermo.
I figured I would change the crank sensor and the temp sensor as a process of elimination for this problems.
You are truely a prince and glad you are here in this board.
Thanks
Frank
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If you find yourself in the SE part of the state, I'd be glad to offer my long skinny arms for CPS R&R.
Aside from the CPS, the ignition power stage is a classic culprit for hot start problems.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-hauler
1990 245 DL 142k M47, E-codes, GT Sways/Braces, Dracos, A-cam
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve
1991 745 GL 304k
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Good info!
The sensor you want to eliminate is a two-pin type under runner #3. The one with the single yellow wire on it is just for the gauge.
The CPS might fix your warm restart trouble, but another common cause of hard hot starting (the kind that plagues you when you stop for gas on an interstate trip) is a failed check valve at the main fuel pump outlet.
I don't think this is so common nowadays, because the failure mode is the spring inside rusts in two, and that is something that happened more often with fuel that wasn't adulterated with ethanol or MTBE, which is the norm most places today. But if it has been there since '93, it might be the problem.
Best elimination approach is changing one thing at a time, when the symptoms aren't totally disabling, so maybe if the CPS fixes it, you'll know for sure. Next thing you'll be doing is putting a starter in it.
Thanks for the kind words, but I'm just another brick owner who has convinced his family they all should be too.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
My goal in life is to be as good of a person my dog already thinks I am.
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Once again my many thanks for the help and I have a good fuel pump on the shelf, but I think I may replace the CPS and temp sender to start and see if that eliminates the problem. Then go to the fuel pump. I just changed the fuel filter this past weekend.
My dash temp gauge is acting wacky also and will jump 1 and 3 to have a true reading. I had a link to this procedure on there somehwere but have lost the pictorial. Any idea what the link is?
Thanks again Art and to all and will let you know the outcome.
Frank
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Here's the link I remember most easily: Notes on the Temp Faker - Or That Temp Comp Board
That should solve the intermittent gauge reading if your experiences follow mine.
As for replacing the fuel pump, I wouldn't advise that. The check valve is sold separately for a very small fraction of the cost of a new fuel pump, and even so, my approach would be to test the residual pressure first, to be sure the activity is warranted. Don't you have a Schrader valve on that 93? Cross that bridge later...
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
By the time a man realizes that his father was right, he has a son who thinks he's wrong.
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I have that valve on my car, but wouldnt know how to check it. First I am going to replace the CPS. Then take steps from there if warranted.
Thanks
Frank
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Sounds like a plan. If the CPS doesn't do it, start a new thread about checking residual pressure. I'm probably not the best one to tell you how, because I used a stick-type tire gauge, once on a 940, and got myself wearing a spritz of Eau de Chevron for my efforts.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
A bargain is something you don't need at a price you can't resist.
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That is the exact link I lost and thanks.
Frank
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Art,
This may be a silly unrelated question, but I must ask. The check valve, can it cause stalling after a hot start? I am still trying to hunt down this low idle stall on a hot start on a hot day, I just can't believe I have another intake manifold gasket leaking.
Thoughts?
jorrell
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92 245 291K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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I suppose, to answer your question in the most relevant fashion, I should just try to explain my understanding of the purpose of the check valve.
Without it, heat in the engine compartment after shutdown expands the fuel in the rail and feed lines backward of the fuel pressure regulator and toward the filter and pump. Without the confining valve, it vaporizes, and the vapor easily pushes the liquid fuel out of the lines, filter, and pump. I imagine the older the pump, the faster this occurs past worn rollers, and then, pumping vapor and sucking liquid from the tank against the boiling fuel is likewise more difficult. Vapor lock.
The check valve ensures the residual pressure ahead of the now stopped pump does not allow the fuel to boil. That pressure should be maintained for at least the amount of time it takes for the engine to cool down, 15-20 minutes.
In Frank's case, if the hot start is consistently successful after a given amount of cranking, that behavior more closely matches vapor lock than an electrical heat soak victim like the CPS or power stage, which would be more dependent on time to cool. Pretty fine line though, as you well know exactly how electrical components act in heat sensitive intermittent failures.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Blowing out another's candle will not make yours shine brighter.
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