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The heat has been off all summer, but it was a bit nippy this morning. I reached down to turn the heater valve on and got wet. Silly little valve peed on my hand!
So, it is time to get NAPA 660-1000 and replace the rubber. Should I also get new pieces of heater hose? What size? Should I drain a couple of quarts of coolant from the engine to get the coolant below the HCV, or, just unhook the coolant hose at the bottom of the HCV and let it drain into a bucket?
What scares me is the copper thermostat tubing will probably not come out of the heater box. Can I just replace the NAPA 660-1000 while it is in the car and I am upside down? Or will I be in need of a proper workbench?
Thanks,
Klaus
EDIT: How in the heck am I supposed to get the heater box apart!? The screws come in from the firewall side, I think they are phillips. I have nothing short enough to turn the screws???
After looking at the engine bay, there is nothing to drain except for a few drops. Easy on the engine side, just need to measure the hose. The bottom coupling is showing signs of a leak.
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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posted by
someone claiming to be patrick of montreal
on
Sun Oct 3 09:25 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
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Sounds like you are going to do it right. FWIW if you wanna do it fast a plumbing valve can be inserted instead of the HCV. If set up properly you can reach under the dash to turn it on and off easilky enough. It worked for me on an old 120 I had. My 220 HCV really is an on/off affair and I doubt the cap tube does much
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Hi Klaus,as far as i know, to successfully seperate the heater box you need to take it out of the car as it is screwed all the way round(this includes the fan housing of course)and held to the chassis by those 4 nuts. All of these make it a very solid unit. I could be wrong of course and you could end up my new hero. I"ll be interested to see what others have to say. David
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No hero here, unfortunately. Quite correct, the entire box needs to come out to get the copper tube out - in one piece. Not a job I am looking forward to... but still much better than needing to replace the evaporator for my 1998 V70.
What a pain, the heater core is lower than the radiator so I will have to drain a few quarts. The control cables are secured with those terrible press fit fasteners.
The good thing is that the core will get cleaned, the fan also, etc. I am not so sure if I want to blast and paint the box.
All of this, just for a leaky valve which really doesn't need a temp sensor anyway. I mean, isn't that what the lever in the dash is for? I know, the temp varies, up and down hill, but heck, I always drive with the vent window open anyway.
I guess I better start in a few days, before the garage gets too cold for bare knuckles!
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Hello,
When the heater core is out to be serviced, ask the repair shop to check the rubber deflector inside the outer heater core tank that routes the water properly though the heater core.
It is very common for the rubber deflector to deteriorate and when this happens the water does not circulate properly though the core.
All the gasket and seals and drain hose for the heater box are available, so you should renew these while you have the opportunity.
We normally have those parts in stock.
A very common mistake made while disassembling the heater box is the loss of the special plastic retainer for the heater box drain hose.
This retainer is funnel shaped and is inserted into the drain hose after the drain hose is installed into the bottom of the inner heater box half.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Wise words. Thank you. I am waiting for NAPA to call me and tell me the radiator hoses are in.
Looks like previous mechanic used plumbers putty to seal the 2 halves of the box. Wxcept for a lot of dirt, heater core is in great shape. I didn't loose the inside drain, thank you. I will probably wash and paint the box, at least the engine side.
Now, I am trying to figure out if I should get a new HCV or get mine 'refurbished'. It is rusty all over, needs a new gasket for the firewall, and the copper piping could have a leak???
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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I really should take out the entire heater box, it hasn't been touched in 20 years or more and the blower only has one speed.
But, if I could get at least one screw out of the bottom corner, then I could pull the copper temp line without breaking it.
I probably will need a new HCV, if the inside is as grungy and ugly as the outside. I figure I will need some heat by January :>)
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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If you can get a small U bend of copper central heating pipe, 10-15mm,5/8" whatever your rubber pipe size is, you should be able to swap that in quickly without losing much coolant. Vice grips on the pipes will help. Yes you can put a basic water valve in bought from the same counter as the U bend. Crude but effective. The copper pipe should be held inside the heater box on a couple of tabs and that will mean that the pipe doesn't just pull out, unfortunately. Many of these have been "got at" so might be just stuffed in which may be lucky for you. Mine is just bent up and tucked up in the airflow, not in the box at all.
If you do get the Ranco valve from NAPA, here's a how to on a similar HCV.
http://www.pbase.com/czechman/ranco
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OUCH! My HCV looks to be original and is covered in rust and green copper. Last spring I used penetrating oil on the valve because it wouldn't close, even with a pair of pliers. It now can be moved via the cable but leaks when open.
You and the pictures have somewhat convinced me to either have it refurbished or replaced all together.
A copper "U" with a valve sounds pretty good to me for a stop gap measure. I really don't plan to drive Zena when there is salt on the roads, just trying to keep the rust to a minimum.
Thanks,
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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It is possible to use one from a 240 but the copper tube is different and the hoses need a bit of adjustment. Copper tube can be swapped over. Maybe/possibly you can get "a few" from 240's in the local pic 'n pull and sort yourself out a good one from the parts. New ones are about $150 so maybe worth a bit of "free" bench time.
This thread covers some of the issues. I'm Derek on there. It's old Saab but hey, no ones perfect.
http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=920&SearchTerms=heater,valve
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Derek, I am going to get a new valve. The insides were all rusted from the windscreen leaking and the metal all pitted beyound hope.
I am removing some of the layers of paint from the engine side of the heater box and was pleasently surprised to see A B Electrolux embossed on the blower motor cover!
How was the box originally painted so that I can see the words after I paint it? Or is that a moot point? I intend to paint it gloss black anyway. The cleaning of several layers of paint is a major task, but fun.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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I think Volvo, and Saab, bought in the heater units already painted up and ready to fit. The paint is very thin, maybe only one coat, and no primer, not unusual with under hood painted items. That's why they get that light rust all over. The earlier grey ones had much better paint but I guess cost more to finish.
Paint the box properly but keep the coats thin on the motor plate if you want to show the numbers. The black was never high gloss but you can get a good finish with a rattle can.
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here's a site of someone who professionally rebuilds them, he also carries some new ones.
http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/
Good luck.
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The Napa number is for replacement rubber for inside the valve? or what?
Last time I replaced a heater valve I didn't try to get the tube into the heater.
The thermostat is not very effective anyway.
The best time to open a heater up is when you have the engine out!
If you drain the block and the heater hoses you will probably do about as good as you can.
The heater valve itself is not that hard to reach. I've never had one in good enough shape to refurb.
I just replaced them.
I believe the hoses are 5/8".
(Maybe this reveals my complete misunderstanding of your post!)
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