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I'm swapping a motor from one 240 into another. The donor car had bypassed the gray plastic plug with four wires that comes through the firewall. I think it has a red, black, and two yellow/blue wires, and I think that the red is probably the exciter wire for the alternator, as that's one of the wires I'm missing. I've tried to start the car and nothing happens, so I think that the yellow/blue wires are for the safety start circuit. The black remains a mystery, but I don't have anything to connect to the thermostat that's mounted on the block behind the alternator. If anyone could point me to where I can find a wiring diagram for this, I'd sure appreciate it.
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it varies a bit year to year...
But, red to back of alternator
Black to oil pressure sending unit (not a thermostat)
yellow/green are indeed starter circuit.
On my '84, there is also a brown that goes to coil.
Was one other one which escapes me right now...
http://otherpower.com/mattb/volvo240wiring.html
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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Actually the brown goes to the temp sensor on the block and it's Brown yellow I think. The sensor is up under the engine intake manifold. You can see it with a bright light from the front on my 86, but you install if by feel.
Regards,
Paul
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mine was plain yellow, no stripe to that temp sensor under the manifold... brown definitely to coil.
'84 and '85 are unique, '86 changed I think.
So yea. Need to know the year of car in question.
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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Ok, I've got the alternator wired to the #11 red wire that is on the round plug on the back of the instrument/dash panel. I was going to go for the wire sticking out of the firewall, but figured that just because it was red didn't mean that it was the red wire I needed. So now I know.
The black wire I'll have to check further into. I have a Bentley manual, but it's never where I can find it when I need it. It always turns up after I do something, so it can show me what I should have done. It's a feature not mentioned in the ads.
But what about the yellow/blue wires? Can I connect them to each other to bypass the neutral safety switch so I can at least get it to crank and see if the timing belt install I did while it was opened up worked? I haven't found where the yell/blu wires go to let "something" know that the shifter is in park or neutral.
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red -> alternator
blk -> oil pressure
yel -> thermostat (coolant temp)
yel/blu -> starter
You say you have 2 yel/blu. The thicker one is probably for the starter, the thinner to thermostat.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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I've used a trailer wiring connection before - this was on an 87 244 which only used 4 wires in that pesky gray block.
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'92 244 w/ M47 (Hydra, ipd bars and springs, bilstein, urethane bushings)
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What year 240 and what year engine donor?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you think nobody cares if you're alive, try missing a couple of car payments.
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Both donor and recipient are/were '86's. A quick check just confirmed that it's red, black, yellow and yellow/blue-green, or whatever. And I like the trailer connector idea.
The yellow/blue wire is what throws me. Where or to what does the other end of that wire go and what does it control? It's gotta be the reason for the no-start, no-crank problem, but what part of the system remains open until the circuit from under the shift lever that shows the shifter handle is in park or neutral connects it's contacts to provide current to...what? The starter, for sure, but from where?
I guess another way of asking this is what would it take to swap a Volvo, or perhaps ANYTHING into, say, a sand rail, and have it run? With a computer controlled engine and modern emissions and electronics, what parts have to be connected, and what parts are "optional"? I know that depends on how far you want to take things, and, yes, I'm one of those people who sometimes think of brakes and steering are "optional".
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On an '86, none of the functions necessary to run the motor pass through that gray connector. Black is oil pressure warning light (ground it and the light goes on in the instrument panel). Yellow is temp gauge. Ground it, and your temp gauge will peg hot. Red is the alternator exciter wire. Ground it and the battery warning lamp will light. Leave it open and the battery will probably never get recharged. The yellow/blue is battery from the ignition switch to crank the motor. Apply battery + to it and your starter will crank.
As for minimum connection to get the motor operational, the important harness passes through the firewall near the windshield wiper motor. That one connects the engine management computer to the engine.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you tell the truth, you don't have to remember anything.
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Going backwards..
From the starter the blu/yel wire goes to a junction
From the junction, if an automatic a blu wire goes to the neutral safety switch at the shifter and from there a blu wire returns to the junction. (If a standard, blu wire comes out of junction and loops back into it.)
From the junction a pink wire goes to the ignition switch and another pink wire to a service socket for the starter motor and from there a blu/yel wire to the control unit of the LH Jetronic 2.4
(Obtained from Haynes manual pg. 12-29)
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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"From the junction a pink wire goes to the ignition switch and another pink wire to a service socket for the starter motor and from there a blu/yel wire to the control unit of the LH Jetronic 2.4"
I think Trev29 is pointing me where I need to go. I'm a little screwed up because the wiring I'm missing is the part of the harness that feeds to the motor. The plug sticking out of the firewall is intact, and what I assumed was the small gauge wire that I needed to connect to the solenoid was a black spade connector that fit the spade on the starter, so I figured that was it. Now I have to see if it's a wire that goes somewhere else, or if it's the right wire, just the wrong color. I know that there are two spade terminals on the starter, and one makes it crank and one doesn't, and I went with the spade below the battery lug, as when I shorted across that with a screwdriver, it cranked.
The problem is, what's that bit about another blue/yellow wire to the injection? I can't seem to find out where it goes or what it does. And unless it's a wire that Volvo put there just to give the guys on the assembly line something to do, I'll probably want to know some more about it.
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Since the plug is intact - the blu/yel wire entering the gray plug from the passenger compartment connects to the starter solenoid spade terminal via another wire which is supposed to also be blu/yel. So just make sure that the starter is connected to that blu/yel wire at the plug with a wire of matching gauge regardless of its color but preferably blu/yel.
You have previously said that there was only one blk wire. That most likely goes to the oil pressure sender as we have indicated. Why would you assume otherwise?
The blu/yel wire to the injection comes out of a service socket. Which means it probably is there to give the guys on the assembly line something to do.
Continuing .. From the ignition switch a red wire returns to the engine compartment and connects to the terminal block beside the headlight relay. From the terminal block a red wire goes to the battery +ve and from there a heavy gauge red wire goes to the starter solenoid. That completes the starter wiring circuit.
So it appears, at the least, you need to join the blu/yel wire at the gray plug to the starter to complete the circuit.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.
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The yellow blue is the water temp sensor for the temp faker in the instrument panel.
It's located under the intake manifold for cylinder #2 and may be hidden by the injector harness.
Regards,
Paul
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Well thanks to everyone. Hooked up the wires, and it cranked. Dug around under the dash on the passenger side and found another four wire gray plug that I'd skipped over, plugged that in and it started!
Just let it run, put the tools away and grabbed a beer. Figured after a few months that it's taken to get here, another day or so won't hurt anything. Still have a few minor blips, forgot exactly what I'd undone behind the instrument panel as far as what wires go where, connected a large and small spade terminal where it looked like each might go. Now I don't see a working fuel gauge. Other than that, it's button it all up and see what it runs like.
Thanks!
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