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turbo replacement 200 1985

I have a 85 turbo wagon that I have been working on for over a year and got tags on it finally. The turbo has quite a whine to it and frequently has a momentary squeal as it spools up or down. I am assuming it is a bearing that is worn. Does anyone have any experience buying an after market one that I can just take off the old and bolt on the new? Or should I be rebuilding the old. Either case where should I be looking....I didn't see anything at IPD. Other online sites are quite confusing T-4...T-5 not sure what it is.
Thanks








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    turbo replacement 200 1985

    I rebuilt a TD04 13c with a 50 EBAY kit. It wasn't that hard and the result was good. I found some information on the internet that was helpfull. The one thing that was different from the instructions was my compressor nut wasn't reverse threaded.

    http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=48611








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    turbo replacement 200 1985

    Thanks for the info....greatly appreciated. I have an oil cooled turbo no water involved so that probably is a plus(less to fool with anyway). My only apprehension is breaking a bolt.....I'm sure it is the original turbo and has never been off for 26 years. I do have a Bentley manual but really not many pages devoted to turbos. I guess I was hoping that someone had a great experience with some great aftermarket turbo replacement that would be a snap to swap. Thanks again.








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    turbo replacement 200 1985

    If you have a 85 245ti you should have a Garrett T3 that should have come from the factory with Intercooling. this means your T3 is water cooler and oil cooled.
    You can tell by looking at the turbo because there are 4 lines going to it,2 for oil and 2 for water.You would also have 2 large hoses(about 2 1/2in.dia.)with 1 going to the air box and 1 going to Intercooler(looks like 2nd radiator.
    HACK7 is right about how easy it is to break a manifold stud,so before starting I would spray any of the bolts that you are taking off a few days each night before you start. Use something like BP Blaster(works well)and be VERY CAREFUL when loosing. I start by loosing a 1/4 turn and then turn it back and this breaks some of the rust loose.
    As fare as this being an easy job it's not.Buy a Bently Manual(around $40 can be found on Ebay or book store)and follow the procedure for removal.This is a doable job but don't go in blind.
    There is someone on Turbobricks that rebuilds Turbo's,just put a Want Add on that board and I think you will get a few people also selling used ones.
    Like HACK7 said you could look for 1 in P&P but it's a crap shoot. If I was going to replace mine I would also pull the newer 90+ manifold(you don't have to mil out unless you want a little more HP and better flow). The newer manifold is stronger and the Turbo is bolted from the outside where the 81 to 85 Turbo's are bolted from the inside which means the older ones you pull the Turbo and manifold together.
    Make shore you disconnect the battery before starting because it's very easy to short out the manifold to the alt. when removing.
    Im not trying to chase you away from doing this but you need a manual and you need to take your time.
    Good Luck< Charlie








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    turbo replacement 200 1985

    Howdy tbird,

    I just did a turbo swap on my 84 245turbo a bit ago...it was very straightforward. Mine was a Garrett T3 Oil cooled. I've taken the liberty of pasting what was advised to me by dl242gl and then what I did.

    If you have a pick a part or similar in your area I'd advise going over and grabbing one off another Volvo. That's what I did. Unless you don't mind paying good money.. I picked up a water cooled turbo to swap out my oil cooled one I just installed at a pick a part half off sale for $45 from memory. My first pnp turbo is still running excellent by the way..but if it dies I'll just replace it with the water cooled one.

    Once you get the turbo off the pnp donor it's easy to look at the blades and check for wear. As the story goes if I can do it...

    There is a small tag located on the turbo somewhere (hopefully) that will tell you what type of turbo it is (I believe). I contacted a turbo rebuild shop and sent them a photo, they told me what I had. If it has a clamp in the front it is a Mitsubishi.

    Please keep in mind I've got a Garrett T3 oil cooled turbo so this info will be somewhat different if you have something else. My brick is an 84 245tubo.

    A word of caution. Take it easy on the studs which connect everything together. If you break one I'd recommend taking it to a shop to have it professionally extracted before you have to go to the extreme measures I did.

    I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in. But this is an easy one to fix seriously!

    Here is what I was told by dl242gl
    The early 740 turbos up to around 1987 used a Garrett that would be a direct swap onto a 240 turbo. It does use a smaller exhaust housing but it will work well and fits directly on. The later 88-89 ones that have a Garrett will also fit on and some of them have a slightly larger compressor side at .52. Once you get to a 1990 and newer. The Garrett turbo T3 fits on that newer manifold. But you don't want to use that manifold without porting it to better match the Garrett or any turbo for that matter. It'll improve the flow. If you are short on time and just want to get on the road. I would just get a turbo and get yourself back on the road. Then get the better 90+ manifold and update to that when you have time for a weekend project.

    You will also need to buy new nuts for the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. These are special locking nuts with a washer side and are slightly crimped when made so they have a locking affect. You want to replace them since the old ones won't have a good locking affect anymore. Be prepared for a broken stud or more on the cylinder head. It's very common and can be repaired by a competent machine shop. It's best to get all 8 studs replaced if you can afford to since they decay from all the heat cycling. It'll let you start out with good hardware and studs on there for the later upgrade. The studs are high heat studs as well. Be sure to get good hardware from a car parts supplier for that.


    Here is Exactly how I resolved my issue...
    Just an update...Have been working on the car quite a bit. Got lucky and purchased an oil cooled turbo which looked very clean from pnp off a 85 740 turbo. Took the turbo off of the 740 manifold and put it on my 245 manifold. Seriously cleaned the original oil lines. Bolted it all back onto my 245...... The car runs like a scalded dog!...paid $114 (including $15 core) for the turbo including the manifold it was attached to. Price included the boost actuator. I literally took the manifold off the 740, removed the exhaust down-pipe from the turbo and took the whole kit to the payment window. Next time I visit pnp for a turbo I'll take a sharp chisel! I ran into a little trouble with the 3 exhaust studs on the back side of the turbo...had to pay a machine shop to get one of the studs out after I broke a craftsman extractor in the stud trying to remove it.


    If you have any questions send me an email as I'm not on here often..

    Good luck! But you won't need it.
    HACK







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