Hi all,

I am trying to replace the bushings in my control arm and after congratulating myself for finally removing them (lots of heat involved on front metal to metal bushing) I have already made a 25 dollar mistake trying to insert the new rear bushing. I have a little 6 ton press and succeeded in busting one of my brand new bushings because I thought I could simply push it in using two flat pieces of steel. One on the bottom and one on the top. Not so, it seems. Before I wreck another one I figured I would check in with the experts here. I should have thought about what I was doing for a few seconds but it was getting late and I was in a hurry...you know the scene. Now that I look at the new bushing and think more than a moment about it I see why I busted up the bushing but I don't see how to get the good one I am left with in. The issue I had, and am having, is that you cannot push this bushing in with a flat piece. One side, the front bearing part of the control arm, is flat. The other side, the "top" of the bushing is far from flat. It does not even look like the top most part of the the bushing is built to withstand the pressure it would take for me to press it in. How do you guys do it?

My unseated rear control arm bushing
[IMG]http://picasaweb.google.com/sasjzl/20100831#5511741506552844130[/IMG]

Another angle of the same:
[IMG]http://picasaweb.google.com/sasjzl/20100831#5511741542285907570[/IMG]

My busted up useless bushing:
[IMG]http://picasaweb.google.com/sasjzl/20100831#5511741560182006962[/IMG]

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

Hi all,

I just finished installing my CA's and something strange is happening. Firstly, the 960 is 1996, the tires are brand new. After torquing the ball joints and front and rear bushings I read some messages and decided it would be best to back off both the front and rear bushing bolts while on the jackstand. Torqued it all up after lowering on to wheel ramps so that the normal weight was on suspension. During the test ride I discovered a new noise/feeling that I can only describe as like a wheel is out of round or something is unbalanced. You can hear it more than feel it and it is definitely since reinstalling the CA's with new bushings and ball joints. Very irritating because other then that the ride and handling are great. I wish I could give you a better description than the above but it seems to be coming more from the right side then the left and all I can think of is a tire out of round. It definitely corresponds to the wheels turning.

I will be at my indys as soon as I can to see if they can shed some light but in the mean time I would love to hear the forums ideas.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

Jim Lee, huh?
http://www.wtop.com/?nid=25&sid=2042177
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89 240 Wagon 217K, 94 940 185K

I believe you are speaking of the rear bushing on the front control arm of your '96 960. You really need to use the Volvo press tools to install those. I take mine to a local indy shop that has those tools. The charge for labor is small and the bushing is not damaged. I don't replace the front bushing, they are usually OK.

Bill

Pay a shop $15 for them to do it. Why did you need new rear bushings in the Panhard rod? How many miles on the car? They almost never wear out.
--
See the 700/900 FAQ at the drop-down menu above right.

Well, your first problem is that that isn't a control arm, it is a torque arm and is from the rear. Control arms are in the front. You can not press them in from the top, because pressing them like that makes them squish and get wider, making it impossible to fit in the hole no matter how much force you use. You have to kind of stretch it out using the bolt hole so it gets skinnier as you stretch it. Heating the arm (not hot enough to melt the bushing) might help some also, as well as some soapy water. You sure you got the right bushing? It looks kind of odd.

good luck

In the foreground is my left front control arm with the rear (front control arm) bushing sitting on top of where it needs to be pressed in.
Are you getting confused with the pair of rear bushings in the background?

http://picasaweb.google.com/sasjzl/20100831#5511741506552844130

What is a torque arm? Something in the rear suspension?

"Well, your first problem is that that isn't a control arm, it is a torque arm and is from the rear. Control arms are in the front."

Thanks,
Jim Lee

Lol I'm a dumbass and shouldn't post after cracking open a cold one. I really didn't mean that to be as jerky as it sounded. That is indeed a control arm for a 960, so don't listen to what I said cause I mistook it for a 940 na torque arm. My bad. Regardless, what I said about getting it in still stands. However, I really think I'd just pay the $10 and take it to a machine shop and be done with it.

good luck

At first glance I also thought it was a rear torque arm, it looks a lot like one, and those bushings are also hard to press in.

No problem. Once I get the bushing that I messed up I am going to take it to my local indy and let him install it with Special Volvo Tool #39823723731881005.
Which I hope he has. I had no idea that replacing a bushing could be like rocket science in the Soviet era. I thought borrowing my father-in-laws little 6 ton press was overkill but now that I have succeeded in destroying one new bushing with it in mere seconds I am leaving this one to the pro's.

Thanks,
Jim Lee

I did the same as you did in destroying one of those $25 bushings at first try.

The problem is that Volvo uses these complete composite bushings that have a huge interference fit. If you measure the hole in the control arm, you will find that the bushing is about 0.080"+ larger than the hole.

You must have the special tool and the press. I machined the special tool and then it was a piece of cake.

The bushing also has to be clocked in a certain position relative to the control arm. This is another part that is tough without the tool.

Hi all,

I just finished installing my CA's and something strange is happening. Firstly, the 960 is 1996, the tires are brand new. After torquing the ball joints and front and rear bushings I read some messages and decided it would be best to back off both the front and rear bushing bolts while on the jackstand. Torqued it all up after lowering on to wheel ramps so that the normal weight was on suspension. During the test ride I discovered a new noise/feeling that I can only describe as like a wheel is out of round or something is unbalanced. You can hear it more than feel it and it is definitely since reinstalling the CA's with new bushings and ball joints. Very irritating because other then that the ride and handling are great. I wish I could give you a better description than the above but it seems to be coming more from the right side then the left and all I can think of is a tire out of round. It definitely corresponds to the wheels turning.

I will be at my indys as soon as I can to see if they can shed some light but in the mean time I would love to hear the forums ideas.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

When you say 'out of balance', I assume that you are observing some repeating, pulsation or oscillation in something, is this correct?

Do you observe this in the steering at the wheel?

Did you get the bushings installed with the little 'ear' aligned with the mark on the control arms?

It is also possible or probable that the toe-in may have changed as a consequence of the work, but I would not think that this would lead to a pulsation/oscillation phenomenon.

The ball joints at the bottom of the strut are another thing that needs to be in good working order. I assume that you checked the boots for any cracks/holes and also that the ball joint is stiff and not loose.

When you say 'out of balance', I assume that you are observing some repeating, pulsation or oscillation in something, is this correct?
>> Yes. It is a rotational issue.

Do you observe this in the steering at the wheel?
>> No.

Did you get the bushings installed with the little 'ear' aligned with the mark on the control arms?
>> Yes.

It is also possible or probable that the toe-in may have changed as a consequence of the work, but I would not think that this would lead to a pulsation/oscillation phenomenon.
>> My thoughts too. My novice impression is that if it is out of alignment >>because of the new ball joints or bushings that
>> the symptom(s) would be a tracking down the road problem, not a rotational >>deal. I have also checked and double checked
>> the wheel nuts to make sure they are all torqued up properly. The first >>thing I thought of was that I had not tightened them up after lowering the >>car but they are all good. Double checked the tightness on all bolts that I >>touched.

The ball joints at the bottom of the strut are another thing that needs to be in good working order. I assume that you checked the boots for any cracks/holes and also that the ball joint is stiff and not loose.
>> Ball joints were replaced. Torqued up fine and are still tight.

I really appreciate your help. I made an appointment to see my local indy guy Monday. His suggestion was to check the brake backing plates to make sure I had not bent either during my calisthentics under the car. I have checked the right and will be checking the left momentarily. I am also going to lower it onto wheel ramps so I can eyeball everything with weight on it. After that I am out of ideas...

Jim Lee
1996 960 Wagon

That brings up one other question.

Is the out of balance pulsation, etc. notable only while braking or all the time.

All the time. Braking makes no difference.

Thanks,
Jim Lee

This is kind of interesting. In my Mitchell online doc it has this as step #1 in removing the control arm:

"Raise and support vehicle. Mark front wheels to avoid rebalancing. Remove front wheels...."

Anyone know what they mean by 'mark front wheels'?
I sure don't. Also I thought wheel balancing was done off the car?
Are they talking about a different kind of balancing?

Thanks,
Jim Lee

Only two independent variables here: clocking position & Rt/Lft.

Since Volvo restricts clocking position to only 1 possibility, that's out; leaving only Rt/Lft.

Frankly, I can't see how 'tire balance' enters into this at all. Since when is the vehicle required for tire balancing?

By 'clocking position' do you mean the correct orientation of the rear bushing with the tab on the CA matching the same on the bushing? If so those are lining up. I am not sure what you mean by 'right/left'?

I fully agree with you about the wonderment of tire balancing having anything to do with the installation of the CA. Allegedly these instructions come to Mitchell1 courtesy of Volvo. I could not find anything in VADIS. Does anyone see or know of anything offical that Volvo puts out in terms of replacing the CA?
I am wondering if there is another kind of balancing that I have never heard about or if Mitchell1 is having a proof reading problem.


Thanks,
Jim Lee

I was referring to the clocking of the wheel on the hub. I thought you were saying that the Mitchell article was citing that as being an issue relevant to wheel balancing.

Having the clocking position of the large bushing relative to the control arm off would certainly change caster, camber & toe.

Now that I think about it a little, the 'mark front wheels' remark is kind of redundant because all the Volvo wheels that I have come across have the pin on the inside so that you are always mounting them in the same way.

One new thing that I discovered while looking around at everything with the suspension sprung on wheel ramps is what looks like a rub mark on the inside of the tire and a corresponding one on the strut tower. Which makes sense because I definitely think that this noise is coming more from the right side than the left side. There are no similiar marks on the left side. I think I am going to put some tape and talcum powder on the place where I think the tire might be rubbing to confirm this. If this rubbing is happening there than any guesses as to how my replacing the ball joints and CA bushings could have caused this? I measured the gap between that part of the tire, which is at its widest part, and the shock tower and the right side matches the left side exactly, at least as exact as the knuckle of my left hands middle finger is.

Any thoughts most appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim Lee
1996 960 Wagon

Now that I think about it a little, the 'mark front wheels' remark is kind of redundant because all the Volvo wheels that I have come across have the pin on the inside so that you are always mounting them in the same way.

One new thing that I discovered while looking around at everything with the suspension sprung on wheel ramps is what looks like a rub mark on the inside of the tire and a corresponding one on the strut tower. Which makes sense because I definitely think that this noise is coming more from the right side than the left side. There are no similiar marks on the left side. I think I am going to put some tape and talcum powder on the place where I think the tire might be rubbing to confirm this. If this rubbing is happening there than any guesses as to how my replacing the ball joints and CA bushings could have caused this? I measured the gap between that part of the tire, which is at its widest part, and the shock tower and the right side matches the left side exactly, at least as exact as the knuckle of my left hands middle finger is.

Any thoughts most appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim Lee
1996 960 Wagon

The hub knuckle is attached to the strut assy with two big bolts going cross-wise thru holes in that channel-section welded to the strut assy.

You might check that out. You wouldn't want those to be loose. You'll have to take the wheel off to see it, but once you've done that, you'll see it straightaway.

I usually put those nuts on the bolts with some thread-locking agent.