This is on my 1984 244DL B23F 228K miles, OD not working (yet) and TERRIBLE rear suspension bushings

Hey, I have two questions, but I'm currently 2800 miles from the car:
1) Is there a way to lube the clutch assembly? Either the cable, or the pivot. It feels a little stiff. The speedo is jumpy like my motorcycle's was - and it improved when I lubed it.

2) The right rear park/drive lamp is not turning on and it looks like the printed circuit is damaged where the plastic connector attaches to the PCB's contact. The circuit is a silver color instead of a nice copper color like the other contacts. Does this mean I need a new PCB?

Happy Bricking
William

PS I'm used to a 740 - the 240's blower fan seems much more powerful, anyone else notice this?
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Taillights You can try disconnecting the connector, use a pencil eraser to clean that contact point on the Circuit board and see if that helps you.
You can splice into the yellow wire on the Harness with a small wire and run it to the tab on the top of the Brake Socket. The tab that is closes to the outside Fender
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html

Volvo clutch cables seem to be smoother than the aftermarket ones and are recommended. You can try spraying lube into the sheath or remove the cable completely to do it.

There's an option of cutting the wire and running it directly to the contact in the bulb holder. Someone recently posted pics of their wire to contact connection. I think it involves cutting a piece off to create a suitable tab to attach a spade connector to.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.