Last week I posted asking for a measurement of the distance between the front frame horns on a 240. I had acquired a 1993 wagon that had been hit on the extreme front edge of the bumper on the passenger's side. With the measurement I was able to determine that the horns had moved together and it appeared to be pushed about 1 3/4”.



I had visions of saving the car and not simply parting it out. I decided it was not feasible to have a frame shop do the work as the cost would make the total repair cost exceed the value of the car. I pulled the car into the work space this morning and proceeded with a plan I came up with over the last several days.

I removed the wheel and placed a 4x4 on the frame rail at the cross member's location on the passenger's side. While the car was on a floor jack it was easy to push it so that other end was against a 2x10 that was against the wall. The 4x4 was supported with a piece of 2x4 screwed in between two framing members in the workspace (3 CD cases provided the necessary shim stock) and adjusted to be perpendicular to the wall.





On the driver's side I placed a 4x4 as far forward as possible on the frame horn. To position the 4x4 I needed to remove the fender.




The other end of 4x4 was positioned with my floor jack against the wall at the height necessary to make the 4x4 level and adjusted to be perpendicular to the wall.



This arrangement of 4x4's provided the offset I felt I needed to apply the force in a way to move things back towards their original position.



At the rear on the driver's side I positioned pieces to prevent the car from moving when I applied the force with the floor jack



After I had the front of the car on jack stands I realized that the front frame horns were not equal distances from the floor. As best I could determine with a four foot level and measuring tape the driver's frame horn was pushed down about 2 inches.

As I applied force with the jack things had little choice but to move. I knew that when I reached a point where things appeared to be in the correct position it would spring back once the jack was released- and it did; about 3/4”. A series of gradual moves and checks finally brought it to a position where once I removed the jack the hood lined up with the remaining fender.

I was happy and surprised to find that the driver's frame horn was also “lifted” back to a position to be the same height as the passenger's.

I realize the frame most likely is still out of alignment and it still may not be any more than a parts car after my efforts, but I won't know until I eventually get it in for alignment. The whole process took a little over two hours at a leisurely pace and the cost was zero dollars with all the materials on hand.

Randy

I'm missing something.

The setup you show looks like it is for pushing the driver horn towards the passenger horn. Yet, you stated that the horns had moved TOGETHER in the accident. So shouldn't they have been pulled/pushed apart?

Presumably, it would have been the passenger side horn that bent inwards (towards the driver's side horn, assuming that the bumper came loose allowing the space to close)? So shouldn't it be the passenger side horn that should be pushed/pulled outwards?

Also, when did they stop making the horn a tube in later 240s? With my '80 and '84, the bumper shocks ends are enclosed in the horn.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

The bumper remained in place during the impact/distortion. Because of that the horns remained the correct distance apart. Both frame horns were moved towards the drivers side, but when I stated they moved "together" I meant one did not move independent of the other. Sorry for the confusion.

There is a structural cross member right below the radiator that helped insure the unit's integrity both at the time of the collision and during the straightening process.

I don't think the design changed, but I don't have experience removing the bumpers on the early cars. The bumper shocks slip into the frame horns and are secured with a large vertigal bolt accessed from inside the engine compartment (along with two small bolts into the face of the horn). Both shocks were bent and removed from the horns in this case.

Randy

Randy,

Excellent approach! A number of years ago, I had to do a similar repair with a 65 Tbird whose front under the floor driver side frame rail was shoved upward about four inches. Bottle jack from the inside with a steel I-beam above it with its ends held down with chains, worked like a charm.

One more thought four you though would be to pull the passenger side fender and inspect the welds between the firewall and the passenger side front rail and strut tower assembly. Although this was a reasonably "minor" accident, I have seen plenty on the bone yard where the spot welds pulled apart. Probably just me being over-cautious again.

Great job!

jorrell


--
92 245 291K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Excellent !
I also wondered if you adjusted the spacing of your garage walls.

It is a basement space under an addition I built on the house. So the walls are 8" poured concrete foundation eight feet tall. My floor jack didn't do them any harm :-)

Randy

Sheer beauty!
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

Amazing! Did you move the garage wall? ;-)



--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

With all that floor jack/lumber action, I was reminded of how I used mine to rebuild my grandfather's 1940's sinking, leaning barn and rebuild it to health once more! Great job on the car!
--
93' 240 Classic Wagon 220K & 92' 740 Wagon Regina/Rex 90K

Man, I'm always surprised at everyone's ingenuity here. Thanks for the photos and ideas. Here's to hoping that no one needs to use it though.

Hope the alignment checks out and your efforts are rewarded, Randy!