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1960 122S Choke Question 120-130 1960

I haven't been able to find someone who's done a choke cable for a 1960 122S with SU-H4/B16B. I have had work done to get the engine up to snuff and then sent off the carburetors to get them back to working order. A bumps in the road later, and I'm have a car that runs great, when it is warm. The choke isn't doing much, and what it does isn't great. So I have a new choke cable (from Swedish Treasures) for a B16B, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get it into the dash. I can feel up, around and under the dash to feel a nut on the inside of the dash pull. I'm having a heck of a time seeing anything in there enough to try to put a wrench on the nut. Let alone try to turn it.

Has anyone done one of these on an early 122? Since I can't think of how else to unhook the old wire to replace it, does anyone have any better ideas?

I just have to say that my car (aka Belle from a previous owner several states away) is a riot! I am amazed at what 85 horse power can do. I've had the car since last year and have spent time and $$ getting it running well. I am starting on some leaking body seals next, then will be doing some rust work.

That's my burning question for now...how to replace the choke cable at the dash? I have adjusted the choke enough times I know how to do that.

Thanks!
Roll On!
Sarah








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    1960 122S Choke Question 120-130 1960

    I am not sure how much help this will be, but the choke works well on my B16b. This is in a 58 PV444 though. My B16 uses a single cable that is secured on the carb end by a sheet metal clamp that is between the inside air cleaner bolts. At the dash end the pull is secured by a chrome nut on the outside (by the knob) and the cable itself is crimped into the knob assembly.
    The choke problems that I had were due to the jets being hard to move, and not returning to the 'off' position when released. Having recently rebuilt the carbs it is possible that the gland seals (that were no doubt replaced) may have become stiff or may have swelled.
    Check that the choke arms are moving the jets down and that they are returning properly when released, you may want to put some oil on the brass jet tubes (choke on) once in a while until they wear in.
    This page...
    http://www.su-filters.com/fuelkits.html
    has a graphic of the assembly.

    Hope this helps!

    Cheers!
    OK








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      1960 122S Choke Question 120-130 1960

      Thanks, OK,

      I just wanted to know that someone else has put eyes on the same area in the dash.

      I really appreciate your information.

      Sarah








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        1960 122S Choke Question 120-130 1960

        Hey Belle! Just replaced my choke cables, its not that bad. I replaced mine when I had the drivers seat out so I could actually lay on the floor and get a good looksie. there is a bolt that goes through the circle where the wires are joined together and another bolt that holds a crimp/clamp that holds both cables secure. theres a good article I believe on a site called swedish embassy, "tech tips". follow that and you should have no problems. the wires travel across the dash and go through a hole with acouple other cables(maybe speedodometer cable. clean any gunk outta that hole real good and feed thru. the hole is located just above all the heater blower mechanisms. Then pack of that body clay around the cables and wires to water proof it. At least on mine. I have a 65 122S.







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