Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Door seals 120-130

posted by rkent47 on Wed Jun 30 08:18 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Jun 2 09:45 CST 2014

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This has probably been beaten to death on the Board, but.. I seem to have some water problems with my 220 Estate. I am thinking that all of the door seals, and rear hatch seals need to be replaced - probably windshield too. Any suggestions about who or what to use?

Thanks,
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time

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Door seals 120-130

posted by derek uk on Wed Jun 30 22:44 CST 2010
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:33 CST 2014

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Best to be certain where the water is coming in before writing your shopping list. Water on the front floors can trickle in from several places. Yes the windscreen is always a prime suspect but it's often the flange in the lower outer corners rusting through rather than a bad rubber. Check for rusty trails under the dash or get someone with a hose to soak the area while you check. Take off the inner kick boards and check the face behind them, espescially the top corner. This is the angled bit behind the wheels. Rust common here and into the A post and can also show as bubbles on the outside. Check this corner under the hood too. Wings off for repair. Wagon rust I'm not so familiar with. Do know that the inner window sills of the back side windows can rust badly due to condensation running down behind the rubber. Upper tailgate has no drains so when the hinge seals go bad it can fill up with water. Not good!

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Door seals 120-130

posted by rkent47 on Thu Jul 1 03:41 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Jun 2 09:45 CST 2014

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Derek,

Forgot to mention, after the last rain, water ran out of the upper hatch on the rear. I wonder if drilling drain holes, even after new seals???

Thanks
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time

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Door seals 120-130

posted by derek uk on Thu Jul 1 09:11 CST 2010
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:33 CST 2014

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Yes. people do drill holes in the bottom but you then have the problem of the water draining down on both sides of the lower tailgate. Pumping a load of anti rust cavity wax into it should help. Don't know what brands are available to you. If there's enough of it, opening the hatch a couple of times a day until the sloshing noise stops should make sure everything is well covered. I read somewhere about a guy who pumped the cavity full of grease. A bit extreme!
Water in the back footwells is usually the water that has drained from the front floor. Front floor is flatish and higher than the wells at the rear. If there always seems to be standing water there it means your front leaks are pretty bad. Unfortunately it hides under the rubber mats and quietly rots the floor. Leaving those out for a while will enable you to check. Not sure but I think that there are rubber bungs in the rear wells which can be left out if you like to keep it drained. Don't go looking for big puddles or ford any rivers.

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Door seals 120-130

posted by rkent47 on Thu Jul 1 03:39 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Jun 2 09:45 CST 2014

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Derek,

Thanks for the low-down on where to check. The front floor is damp after rain, but not water standing. The back floor had water standing so I think I have issues with the rear door seals. The previous owner tried to use regular screen door weather stripping! Much of the Volvo seals are either broken, or chunks missing. I hate to think about the expense of all new seals, but it is better than replacing the floors! Thankfully, we are moving into the drier cycle of weather here in South Dakota. I really love the Wagon and don't want it to deteriorate any more than it already has...
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time

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Door seals 120-130

posted by walrus3 on Wed Jun 30 17:02 CST 2010
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last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013

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I've bought some of that stuff from Christer at VP Auto Parts in North Charleston, SC.
Very friendly and relatively fast shipping if they have the stuff in stock.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

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Door seals 120-130

posted by RepairmanJackal on Wed Jun 30 11:18 CST 2010
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last visit: Tue Jun 10 09:52 CST 2014

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More than likely you should. best prices are a toss-up between IPD, vintage import parts, Swedish Treasures, and Veteran Produktor - which all seem to source from Genuine Classic Parts in Sweden.

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