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Hello All,
I'm struggling to keep the b20 from overheating...
I turned the dizzy back until the engine began to bog down, and it still overheats in a matter of seconds.
The headers are hot as all get out, and the block is just warm to the touch.
I no longer have timing marks or the pointer on the cover- yes I know it sound stupid but that's the case.
This car has been a breeze for years and now its totally erratic. Any Ideas?
Cheers,
greendread
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I think we went through this before but I'll put it in again.
Turn your distributor to where it idles the fastest and your timing will be very close.
The more you retard the timing, the hotter the exhaust will get even if your cooling system is OK.
If turning the distributor gets your idle too fast, slow it down at the carbs, NOT by retarding the timing.
Don't use sealant on the thermostat housing - you don't need it. The U-shaped rubber ring
is GREAT.
If your thermo housing is not flat on the bottom (tightened too tight or some such)
lap it flat so it fits flush on the top of the head and use a new rubber ring.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Batalia122
on
Wed Jul 7 18:20 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
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Get a Radiator from a 140 with the fan shroud. Bolts right on and you just need to find a new lower radiator hose. Mine never overheated again after doing that upgrade. No more heating up at a red light.
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What year 140? My 73 145 has a crossflow radiator that seems MUCH too wide for a 122.
Also engine is much closer to radiator in a 122.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Batalia122
on
Mon Jul 12 18:46 CST 2010 [ RELATED]
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I found it in the junk yard from I think a 74 volvo 140, It is wider but does fit. The only problem is the lower radiator hose and you need to drill new holes almost next to the old holes. Give me your email and I will send you pics.
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Hello All,
I'm on longer overheating... I haven't driven the car as I no longer have working tail lights.. but the car isn't overheating after idling for a while as it would. I think its okay for now.
I'd like to look into upgrading the rad when I know the my timing, valves, and electrics are solid once again.
Before things began falling apart I would drive the car almost 1,000 miles a month in mixed city and long distance driving with no overheating issues.
Thanks!
cheers,
greendread
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Hello George,
First- thanks for all your help...
I suppose you're referring to what the su book calls the "throttle adjustment screw"?
I'm a little unwilling to touch the carbs as that's what got me into this mess so long ago, but it must be done.
The thermostat I bought has the typical round rubber gasket not U shaped, it sits flat- flush but seemed to shift and not center in the hole on the block, or the thermo housing.
I'll scrape it off and try again.
Thanks again for your time and patience!
Cheers,
greendread
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The correct ring is U-shaped in cross section with the groove on the inside.
YOu stretch it around the thermostat so there is rubber on both sides of the thermostat flange.
When you adjust the idle, be sure to turn both screws exactly the same amount,
usually maybe a quarter turn at a time. Don't adjust anything else.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Hello,
The correct rubber seal for the thermostat has a groove on the inside.
The seal is designed to mount on the thermostat disc.
No glue is required and if necessary the seal will withstand multiple removal and re-installations.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
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Hello Eric,
Well the gasket is the same old generic O shaped gasket I've had on the old fords and such... Just and o that has and inner groove. I scraped off the blue silicone, but it seems the thermostat could be a mm wider and fit just right. The old thermo was scaly and didn't have the right play on the spring when you pushed on it. all is well with the overheating now.
On to the timing and valves- then the lights, angain
Cheers,
greendread
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Hello All,
Thanks you both for you sound advice!
I took the thermostat housing off and it was bone dry on the engine side?! I filled it up about a month ago?! Put in a new 192 degree thermostat and a new seal, and a bead of RV blue silicone as the fit wasn't as snug as I'd like it.
I ran the engine with the cap off let it idle and rev'ed it up a bit...
Bumped up the dizzy a hair- it didn't over heat
There was some coolant in bottle, but well below the min mark, and the rubber inside the cap is rotting. I smeared it with RV blue too for the time being.
Thanks a ton! Now I can go back to sorting out my taillights!
Cheers,
greendread
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That's good news. Has your thermostat got a balance hole in it? Many of the modern ones don't. It is a little hole with a brass pin in it. Without it the air can't escape the block and the block won't fill. If it hasn't just drill a small hole in the flange of the thermostat. The pin isn't vital.
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Air lock in the cooling system, stuck closed thermostat? Is it really overheating, temp gauge fubarred?
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Hello All,
Okay I didn't think about air lock... So do I just jack up the front and run the engine as I add coolant through the top? I'll do the thermostat today, and report back any findings. No I never did any major service to the the rad... never had any issues with it.
thanks a ton!
greendread
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Add to that...
Is the radiator plugged?
Has it actually been rodded out? Just flushing will not get all the hardened deposits out.
Do you know it is a timing issue? Gonna be tricky to get it timed right without a pointer or marks.
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Hello,
I'm assuming its a timing issue. The car ran great until I messed with the dizzy trying to overcompensate for fouled carbs. The carbs are rebuilt and I'm trying to get to a baseline 0 and get back into daily use. I wish I could get a valve adjustment but I can't seem to find any descent mechanics in Philly anymore.
Cheers and thanks!
greendread
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Glad you found your overheating issue.
Adjusting valves is really easy. Remove the spark plugs and the valve cover. Rotate the engine until both rocker arms for cyl #1 are loose and cyl #3 are tight. Then, with a .016 feeler gauge, adjust all 4 of the loose rocker arms.
Then turn the engine until #3 is loose and adjust the remaining rocker arms.
Do not over tighten the valve cover when putting it back on, snug is good.
With the spark plugs out, you can rotate the engine by turning the fan blades, if the tranny is in neutral :)
Klaus
--
Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.
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