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Hi William. Motor mounts are an easier task than you might think on a 240, once you get the knack. Yes, you can jack it up under the pan if necessary. Take a 2 x 6, drill a hole in it with a wood bit large enough to accept the drain plug. This will spread the load across the bottom of the pan. The pan is stamped sheet metal. Some people recommend raising the engine from the bellhousing, representing that the oil pan is too fragile. I think the cantilever is an issue that way. The most proper way to do this is either to remove the weight from the mounts by slinging the motor from an engine hoist using the lifting brackets on the head, or you can put a board across the strut tower areas, place an eye bolt through the center of the board, sling the engine from that and raise the engine with the eye bolt. I have a friend who has built a jig with two pieces of 2 x 6 that rest on the inner edges of the fenders. A piece of 1/2 x 4 x 4 aluminum angle spans the boards and there is an eye in the middle of the angle. I've borrowed that a time or two.
The best hint I can give you on the project is some prep that may seem like a bunch of work, but will save you a ton of time in the long run, steps 1-5. Here's what I do:
1. Remove splash pan and hot air tube, disconnect battery
2. Locate appropriate rags and remove oil filter (not a must, just handy)
3. Loosen alternator, remove lower through bolt and upper adjuster bolt
4. Pull alternator and hang from washer reservoir bracket-no
disconnecting necessary
5. Remove lower alternator bracket
6. Good time to review alternator bushings and ground wire
7. Support engine but do not raise
8. Remove three lower nuts under crossmember on passenger side lower mount
9. Raise engine. Remove three bolts on upper bracket. Use a ratcheting
box wrench on the front lower bolt--that's the trick. A box will work too,
just slow. Can't get to it with a socket.
10. Lift out the assembly, change out the mount and reinstall
11. Tighten top bolts first. You may have to juggle the height of the engine a
little.
12 Lower the mount onto the crossmember and install the lower nuts
13. Driver's side next. Remove lower nuts and raise engine slightly
14. Best bet for upper bolts: Air ratchet and flex 12mm socket. They come
right out from underneath, working behind the crossmember.
15. Replace the mount and reinstall at top first, just like the other side
16. Drop the engine, replace lower nuts, filter, heater tube, splash pan etc.
If one side is broken, especially the driver's, the project becomes much more difficult as the engine will have moved sideways. Be prepared to use a lever to help you get things into position.
I like to swap out to diesel mounts. A little harder and they seem to last longer before sagging. Driver's side is a little taller, but doesn't cause any issues.
DS
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