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I've got an 84 244DL. Doing tune up and fixups.
If I do the seafoam treatment, how long do I run it before changing the oil?
I want to take a trip to a nearby town - about 30 miles round trip. Should I add the seafoam before or after the trip?
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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I just got a Chevy 350 back from the re-builder ..with the advice that due to the new specs for engine oil that this new oil has no zink or potassium and far too much detergent to be used in an engine with a flat tappet cam. They recommend, and so does ISKY, that I use General Motors EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) in the break in and continue afterwards or use an oil formulated for diesel use... IDO 15 W 40 . These oils have still got the zink and potassium needed to protect the flat tappet cam. The reason the new oils were developed was to prevent the contamination of catalytic converters, and the roller tappets do not wear the cam like the flat tappets do. When I get Ole Reliable back on the road I will definitely be changing her over to IDO.
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Brett Sutherland & the 1.6 million mile 122 CANADIAN --- and has been Joined by a 1990 780 BERTONE TURBO Coupe -- WINDSOR, Nova Scotia the birthplace of HOCKEY
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I have read it is not good or better to run oil made for diesels in a gasoline engine.
The detergents used in the diesel oil are formulated for the different contaminants of the diesel fuel.
If you check it out, the oil drained from diesel engine is sooty black.
The oil drained from a gas engine is a very dark brown.
There is a difference in the chemical particulates they are trying to keep in suspension until the oil change interval arrives. Fewer stops and starts for sludge to build up.
There is a large difference in the oil capacities of the two engines for a reason. You can change your oil 4 or 5 time for one of theirs. They use a heck of a lot more filter elements in the process too.
There is nothing cheaper about the maintenance a diesel engine except the oil. The oil runs about the same price because so much of it is used nationwide, scratch that, world wide.
Think about this. Ever see recycled oil for sale in the parts stores. I’m sure there must be some but that I have found it readily.
All our oil is “re-refined” and being resold, somewhere. Mostly in bulk to fleets is my bet.
Oil is pushing 4 bucks a quart. This is because of a few willing to pay for synthetics and their later cheaper blends to get it going and accepted. It’s been years in the process because there wasn’t that much difference. They had to make engines tighter sealed (gaskets and piston ring fits) to use it.
The next step is recycled oil and if you want any of the new stuff, it’s going to be for more.
All this started for the search of the holy grail of oils.
Penn & Teller Show has a phrase they like for all this marketing.
I’m ready for recycled oil! It is going to be a blend of both on the rebound. What a deal you could say!
Just pick you detergent package (gas or diesel) and your back where you started.
If you decide to buy the Zinc additive oil, with .000X of one percent in it.
You had better buy the oil filter that adds more detergent while you drive. Just in case the brand oil you bought didn’t put enough in to get you to the next oil change. The oil filter people still advise you to do despite their melt away additive packet? I don’t think so!
Now, 3&6X the filtering capacity over the economy ones in the same brand. I never knew I ever filled up one? They go into a “full bypass flow” if that happens. They run in bypass 80% of the time. You can’t push all the oil the pump puts out through the filter fast enough.
Marketing and gimmicks!
It is same then, now and always for those who buy into it. I’m thinking how zinc got in there to begin with. Pennzoil with Z -7! Seven, what?
Phil
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Why? You've got oil that is formulated to keep the bearings clear from the crank, stop the cam lobes from destroying themselves and the pistons picking up on the bores. You then lob load of detergent in the oil and fuel and that is going to make your car better?
It's snake oil. Just use decent oil and change it regularly.
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I got this car from a PO who doesn't seem to have done much in terms of maintenance.
I didn't ask whether or not to use seafoam, I just asked how long I can safely run the motor with it in the oil - 5 blocks or 15 miles.
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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I did it 3-4 years back, just for the heck of it. if you are talking about sea foam in engine oil then I will say do it probably for 3-4 minutes and that too on idle. it will thin out the oil so be very carefull. afterwards drain the oil and change the filter.
If you are saying running it in gas for injector cleaners, then there is nothing to worry.You can change oil after 1-2K Lucas etc also make good gas additives.
If you are saying running it through intake vaccume hose, then there is not much issue with engine oil, I posted a reply at the bottom of this thread as well.
Google "Chinese torture Seafoam"
Regards,
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DD-1990 240 DL SW M47II FI 3.1 234 K miles
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And I answered your question; chucking a load of detergent into the oil to dislodge all the dirt at once and pumping it through the shell bearings is a thoroughly bad idea. Just changing the oil very early for a couple of oil changes will clean it out well enough without doing damage.
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Ok, I'll admit it - I only wanted to do it because it sounded all kinda of neato.
I didn't do it on your and others advice.
I did run it through the intake manifold and WOW. I thought people were exaggerating. This is INSANE what a difference it made! Best $8 I ever spent on a tune-up, after spark plugs.
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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How did you run it through the intake manifold? Did you have to rig up a T-junction and put one hose in the can of Seafoam? I need to do this to a car but have not worked out the best way yet.
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Actually, I just grabbed a conveniently located hose (happened to feed the ECU, which was in limp-home mode already) and spent about 30 seconds sucking it in. Then you let it sit for 5 minutes, during which you can reconnect it.
Good Luck, I hope it works wonders for you too!
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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"I just grabbed a conveniently located hose (happened to feed the ECU, which was in limp-home mode already)..."
There is no vacuum feed to "the" FI ECU (inside the car at the right side, ahead of the door, and the one you have in "limp home" mode. What you found is the Ignition CU, below the washer rez.
Also, it's a good idea to show the car type and year like I did here. Otherwise anyone reading this thread will assume it's a 740 turbo.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Been there and done this , checkout these threads. does it make difference, probably depends upon how sooty is the intake system, valves etc.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/archive/index.php/t-http://forums.turbobricks.com/archive/index.php/t-96682.html
In short it says when the engine is at optimum temp, then open the thinner of the vacuume tube which is on TB or the one which goes to Flame trap holder.
Dip it in water but not so much that car stalls , keep the revs high by moving the acc cable spool.
Once you are done with water do it with sea foam, You can google chinese tortue sea foam.
Regards,
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DD-1990 240 DL SW M47II FI 3.1 234 K miles
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Very interesting and thanks for the links. What does the water do? The Seafoam can does not mention water at all, it recommends 1/3 can Seafoam sucked into the engine via a vacuum line.
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Steam Clean. Do not let too much water get sucked into intake .May be only 100-150 ml and that too slowly, reason being that water can get into engine oil and will contaminate it and then you will need to change the oil, DAMHIK. If the engine is really hot like say after a 20-30 mile drive then risk is even less as all the water will turn into steam upon contact with metal.I picked it up from turbobricks. 1st water and then sea foam. Here is the good discussion and method.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=35053
Regards,
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DD-1990 240 DL SW M47II FI 3.1 234 K miles
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I thought the can mentioned distilled water, but I may have imagined that.
I know other brickers mentioned it, but I think it may have just been a cleaning feature. Carbon is supposed to be very soluble in water, so water should clean up carbon deposits.
Only problem with using both together is that you can't be sure it was the water or the $10 can of seafoam... HAhahaah.
I personally I think the seafoam did more.
Happy Bricking
William
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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