Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

We're bringing our 1973 142 back to life and are just finishing installation of an M41 (4 speed + overdrive), transmission. The owners manual says use 30 weight motor oil in it, or 20W-40W. I know that ATF is used in the M46. What changed between the M41 and the M46 to cause a change to ATF? And is something else better than 30 Weight? After all, the technology in 1973 is a few years old.
Thanks
Jim








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    M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

    I use ATF Dexron3, in my M40 and M41. Started doing it at the advice of my old indy Volvo mechanic, never had an issue with it. It shifts smoother, redline MTL would be another choice I'd go with. Just about to switch over to that in my M46 in my 240.








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    M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

    Many, many opinions on this.
    I use RedLine MTL in M40, M41 and M46 gearboxes.








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      M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

      I have used MTL extensively in M40's. I t works fine but I suspect it interacts with old seals poorly and my encourage leaking. This is based on my own experience as well as hearsay evidence.








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        Threadjack warning! 140-160 1973

        Charlie - I use up 3rd and 4th gear synchro's at alarming rates... I'm on my 3rd gearbox change this season, all for the same problem. I've tried various lubricants (including MTL), but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Do you have the same problem? If not, maybe I just need to slow down my right arm? I'm otherwise fairly a deliberate shifter, heel-and-toeing all downshifts, for instance.
        --

        Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
        BlueBrick Racing Website
        YouTube Racing Videos








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          Threadjack warning! 140-160 1973

          I have zero synchro problems. I do occasionally strip the teeth off 3rd gear which is my only recurring transmission problem. I use the remote shifter and you use the long "school bus" one I think. That may be a difference.

          I had one transmission that lasted a very long time. Several seasons. I was using a weak pressure plate that allowed a little slippage when shifting so I guess it didn't stress the transmission too much. One time when the transmission was out I pulled off the lid and looked inside. The nubs on the synchro's were almost worn off and the transmission was full of brass. Still it shifted like butter. I put in new synchros and used it for another year or so. Eventually the pressure plate and clutch got so bad that I had to replace them. Blew 3rd gear the next race from the added stress of a grippy clutch.

          Those synchro's are silly expensive so I use good used ones. I dress the inside with a light pass of 600 sand paper. I dress the cone on the gears the same way. I think it encourages the synchro and gear to bed together better with a little use. I also check synchros real carefully for cracks.

          What happens to yours? Bo they break apart or just crunch on gear shifts?








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            Threadjack warning! 140-160 1973

            Interesting... you occasionally strip gears, I've never done that. I use up synchro's (typically broken into 2 or 3 pieces, BTW), you've never done that.

            WRT the shifter, the fact that I'm "loading" the gearbox a bit more with that piece of pipe (particularly while shifting) has indeed crossed my mind. OTOH, it's as simple as it can be, and I like things with as little complexity as possible. Plus, mine is a '71 tub, so I would have to cut up the car to install a remote shifter, and I'm basically disinclined to do that. However, comma...

            Anyway, I'm going to start paying more attention to the front bearing, as well as the pair of springs that press against the 3 locating keys. In one instance, I found one of those springs (unbroken) running around loose in the bottom of the case, when I disassembled it to replace a broken 3rd/4th shifter fork. I'm gonna guess you've never broken one of those, either?

            In any case, thanks for the insight. I gotta get back to work on a pile of gearboxes - I'm sure Chris Albin would be terribly dissappointed if I didn't show up in St Louis at the end of the month. :-)
            --

            Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
            BlueBrick Racing Website
            YouTube Racing Videos








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      M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

      Redline or even Mobil 1 full synthetic are excellent choice. On my 74 144, I can turn the OD on and off without even pressing the clutch. Also excellent gear shifting, no grinding or jamming.
      --
      ...and the bricks keep on rolling








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        M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

        You can shift in and out of OD without the clutch regardless of what fluid you're using... but what's the benefit?

        Best,

        Cameron
        444,122SC








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          M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

          Yes you could shift in and out of OD with or without the clutch, but with 30W gear oil, mine used to jerk so bad when I hit the switch that using the clutch was necessary.

          As for benefit...well if it bangs into OD like mine did, its probably doing more damage that shifting smoothly into OD (by using synthetic) and less wear on the clutch cable.
          --
          ...and the bricks keep on rolling








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      M41 Transmission Fluid 140-160 1973

      For what it is worth, after I started being able to beat my sychros in the 1-2 shift, I went with a product called Synchro shifter II from BG and it has worked well. I can't beat the sychros anymore and in 2 years about 60,ooo miles no problems.







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