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HI,
I was, in my mind, misplaced in a couple ways!
First I was in my joking mood. It started with the procrastination picture and the summer coming I painted.
Second was the type hose. Consequently or apparently, the two heater hoses can not be the only hoses the driver’s side. I interpreted it as a single hose that was the problem. NOW I say OH, THAT HOSE!
That would be the special hose. I was with you for one brief moment on those hoses. They are in a tight spot.
Then, I read it was a piece of Generic and provide by IPD. I have dealt with IPD and RPR out of S.F. with good results on those hoses and other parts.
I asked myself. How can this be? That was when my mind went clunk instead of click.
In my older days you could buy straight flexible radiator hose. For trucks and tractors, etc.
I was thinking a major misalignment. Engine and the transmission mounts can cause problems with both. In your case, the engine could be sitting back to far or leaning to the driver’s side. This explains reason for the accident question.
Now take the Auto Zone Co. for a split second. They too rich for my blood, for their shelf items too. I go there to see if I’m getting a good deal, somewhere else.
Now back to the heater. Since the hose is kinked, there may be air trapped in the heater core. This in itself could cause flow problems. Hot then cold yes! But not the lever position of desired control unless it is maladjusted, not closing all the way off, or in backwards.
As far as the gauge goes, I have four cars and all the heat gauges run level at the straight across position. They may move slightly up or down the width of the needle on my older cars. The two newer cars have the (for dummies) compensation boards.
It is my experience that you have too cold a thermostat in there or one not closing completely. The car should warm up with in a mile or so. It should be on the way up to it standard position or half way pretty darn quickly. The only way to know for sure is to measure the upper hose temperature and see if it working up to specifications.
Don’t take those heat specifications lightly because they affect the gas mileage and life of the engine. Since you have been looking, you know that.
Past that you have suspect a bad wire (corroded) to the sender. There is a sender and gage voltage stabilizer relationship too. All these, factor into why they seldom put degrees on the gauges themselves. These gauges are for an approximate reference and can be made cheaper that way. There is less responsibility back to a manufacturer without exactness.
These instruments are made by man and can be applied to humans in general. You got to define what NORMAL IS between the limits.
We are made so cheaply, there’s no warranty from the manufacture either?
Thanks for your kind thoughts. I’ll have to keep having fun on the board and practice more though. As you can tell we all try not, or try to have our moments with zingers!
Phil
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