Having just replaced the lower A-arm bushings, both inner tie rods, strut springs, strut mounts and struts, it is time for alignment. Two questions
1. Should I have it towed (roll back) to the alignment shop, 35 miles one way?
2. The owners manual says what camber and tow in should be but that there is no adjustment for caster. Well, what the heck is the caster supposed to be? It's got to be something. BTW, I have overload springs in the rear.
Also, what about the pinion angle? Any experience here? Need some quick advice since I have an appointment this Friday to have it aligned.
Thanks
Jim

Caster is like a grocery cart wheel. It puts the weight forward over in front of the center of the wheel axle. Makes it track opposite (backwards) of the traveling direction for stability.

That is why when you go to buy those wheels they are called casters. That is how I can remember caster verus camber.

Ever tried to drive backwards fast? The steering doesn't feel as solid in response. All the settings are backwards.

Phil

Caster is built into the car. Apart from putting it on a frame machine or bending front end parts it should remain set.

Assuming that you marked off where the parts came off (struts and tie rod ends) and re-mounted them the same way, then you should be all right for the drive. Take it for a mile drive and see if it feels OK. If it's scrubbing or the car won't stay centered on the road, have it hauled. Otherwise 35 miles isn't that bad. Judge it for yourself on a quick test drive. If you have brand new tires, maybe you'd rather have it hauled.

Not sure about the pinion angle, but as long as the car is fairly intact, that, and caster, should be OK.


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Chris Herbst
Phoenix, AZ

1992 940 2.3 160-something-k
2005 S80 2.5T 39k

You can practically eyeball the toe and adjust it at a tie rod if needed. The steering wheel may not end up straight but for 35 miles who cares.

What is pinion angle, something in the rear end? Maybe best left alone unless you are trying to correct something.
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David Hunter

I ended up having the 245 towed to the alignment shop as soon as I got the new inner tie rods from IPD. The toe in was very bad so I probably saved a good bit of scrubbing on the front tires. After installing and aligning, the front tires went to the back and vice versa. All is very smooth now. The pinion angle, i.e., the angle between the drive shaft and the differential, will be done after I get the drive shaft balanced. New adjustable strut rods from IPD should make this pretty easy.

"The pinion angle, i.e., the angle between the drive shaft and the differential, will be done after I get the drive shaft balanced."

IMO going after pinion angle on a basic 240 is overkill, especially if it doesn't have lowering springs. I DID lower my 240 V8 with IPD's lowering springs and ran it over 100K miles with no problems in the drive line.
[Full disclosure: With the stock track rod, the rear of the body was offset to the right about 3/8" but hardly obvious so I lived with it.]

"New adjustable strut rods from IPD should make this pretty easy."

I believe those rods need to have the adjusting end removed from the mounting ears every time you tweak them. Not something I'd call easy.

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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.