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ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

How do I trouble shoot???????

I have no crank condition.....a couple of lights on the dash always lit as if ignition is on. key is out and all the way in the off position.

Battery is charged and at 12.3 (triple a guy)

I turn the key all the way to 3re slot where I would normally hear cranking and get nothing...no clicks ....zip.

I cleaned battery posts.....and blue neg cable to frame.

What else could cause this problem?

possible issue with the red Positive wires where they mate up with the battery?

Fuses or ralays?

I know there has to be a short of some sort since a few dash lights are on.

e brake and fluid on ...also when press clutch in i get the upshift arrow going on.

I opened the area up under the steering wheel an see the igintion switch and bunchs or wires.

Please HELP.

Mark

1988 740gle wagon 175k w 5spd "The Silver Surfer"








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    ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

    Try to start it by shorting the starter lugs with a big screwdriver.
    Of course you need the ignition in KP2








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      ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

      billy joe bob......i did a little research after posting the message and saw that as one of the things to do.
      While out there this evening to start dealing with the problem I reconnected the negitive terminal and saw a spark out of the corner of eye underneath the engine with a wisp of smoke....problem solved!
      Looks like shorted and worn red ignition wire from battery to starter that runs under the front of the engine.
      Looked like it was chewed by a squirrel or something.
      I'll take it off clean it up and maybe rewrap if replacement is two costly.

      Thanks again

      Mark 88 740gle wagon w5spd "The Silver Surfer" 175k








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        ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

        Mark:
        Yogi Berra would probably say that "75 percent of your starting problems are half electrical", and the battery cables are a big part of this statistic (sic). Have a look at FCP Groton for reasonable pricing on these articles - benefits being: OEM parts fit better, warranties on the products, fast delivery service, and the like. This is one area where I'd be inclined not to attempt to economize TOO much, and I've seen a few instances over the years where a fault in a battery cable was extremely well hidden. BTW, I have no affiliation with Groton or any other of the reputable suppliers out there, but take a minute for a quick search on the 'board and I think you'll find out that this is probably the best way to go.
        Hope this helps,
        Garth.








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          ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

          Garth, thanks for the response.
          I checked multiple websites for replacement pricing. I'm a little leary of dropping 100.00 to 150.00 if I can clean them up and rewrap them. I've also searched a little on the board here and have read that both tend to go positive and negititve cables.
          I appreciate your humor and respect your opinion but u didn't answer my question......can I clean the cable (s) up and wrap them or is replacement the only way to go. if I can clean up and reuse.....what materials to re seal the wires?

          I picked up a cheap 2 guage wire at auto zone (12.00) just in case it's only the positive that's damaged and the auto zone wire is the right length.

          Mark 1988 740 gle wagon 175k w5spd "the silver surfer"








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            ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

            Mark:
            Of course you're right, I didn't give you a proper answer to your question. Short answer should have been: in my opinion, when in doubt, go with a new unit. I've been caught short in the past with a battery cable which looked all right: I checked and double-checked the battery clamps and inspected along the run as far as I could go, and satisfied myself that the cable was serviceable, to no avail. The cable end inside the battery clamp was rotten and dropped current flow to a very low ebb - took a long time to diagnose; the cable run was chafing against a body member somewhere (this was some time ago, and I've put it behind me) but I remember electrical symptoms which came and went for some time. My take on "cleaning up and re-wrapping" boils down to what to use, as you've asked, and how reliable and long-lasting the repair might be. I just don't have any expertise to share in this case. I realize that this info is really of doubtful help, but I'll reiterate that I've seen listings for replacement cables (both) for well under (relatively speaking) $100, and as I've said, that would be my way to go, with the added security of knowing that THIS part of the electrical equation would be solved for the duration of your relationship with the vehicle.
            Keep us up to date on your progress - I'll be interested to hear if you're able to make the repair without resorting to new pieces.
            Regards,
            Garth








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              ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

              hi Gus_Boy,

              Finally got under the car taking off the engine shield and scrapping off all the grunge and oil build up to hopefully fix and found a cable situation that I wouldn't bother trying to repair.

              neg and pos battery cables fused together and plastic melted at first junction under passenger side of engine where the neg routes up to the engine ground.

              I read that this is a common occurance for this model. I thought i read that there was a recall on that as well.

              For all those out there thinking of getting new battery cables for the 88 gle 8 valve non turbo the replacement poitive cable should be 72 inches.

              some sites showing 51 inches as replacement.

              Mark
              1988gle wagon with 5spd 175k The Silver Surfer"








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                ignition switch 1988 740 gle problem 700 1988

                Invest in a can of engine degreaser and some disposable gloves.
                It makes life more enjoyable while playing mechanic.







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