I was driving last night and my 245 DL stalled going about 25mph down a slight grade. Right as it stalled, the oil light flashed on. I pulled over and checked the oil level. It was fine. Then I checked the coolant level. It was fine, too. I checked for any obvious hoses that were disconnected. Nothing abnormal. I took off the oil cap on top of the engine block and it was VERY hot, which makes me think the car stalled because it overheated. (My temp gage sensor has not been working for a few months, so I couldn't verify the temp.) I let the car sit for about 20 minutes and then tried to start it. First time, just a whizzing sound, second time the engine tried to crank, but wouldn't catch. I haven't tried it again, as my experience has generally shown that trying a third time to start a no-start brick doesn't magically cure the problem. But being the hopeful type, I will likely try it again tomorrow.

Any suggestion on how I can figure out what's wrong WITHOUT having it towed to a mechanic? Someone I know suggested the oil pump, but imediately said it was a guess. How do I check the oil pump if my car won't start?

Additional info: I noticed last night that the coolant was not nearly as hot as the oil cap. Is it possible that the coolant is not circulating and is causing the car to overheat? Also, in the last few months my car has been having occasional weak starts. It's a Calif car, so ambient temperature is around 60F this time of year. There are no obvious fluid leaks. I'd tell you the mileage, but the ODO stopped working years ago. I think it's about 150-200k.

Thanks for the advice, I'll run some diagnostics this weekend and let you know the results.

I agree, nothing you have said says it overheated or lost oil pressure. Engines are hot and oil pressure drops when engines stop. I would certainly try more than twice to restart a stalled engine. Perform the normal diagnostic sequence for a no start. There is much info on this in the FAQ section. You need compression (timing belt), spark and fuel to run an engine.
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David Hunter

From the information you have provided, the engine did NOT overheat. One of three things happened:

1: Timing belt slipped a bit and finally broke. To check this, remove the oil filler cap and have someone turn the key to crank the engine while you look in the hole, if the camshaft is not rotating, the timing belt broke and all you need to do is replace it. If the camshaft is turning, the timing belt is most likely fine.

2: The lack of fuel delivery possibly caused by a bad fuel pump relay or a bad fuel pump. The fuel pump or a corroded fuse have often been the culprit.

3: Something is wrong with the ignition system, remove one of the plug wires and plug in a spare spark plug while it's outer body is touching the bare metal of the engine, crank the key, does the plug throw a spark? If it does, ignition is not the problem, if it doesn't, well you now know roughly what system is causing the problem.

Run the above tests and let us know what you find.

jorrell
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92 245 291K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

OK, I tried last night to start the car again (because I was anxious to see if it would magically start). All I got was a whizzing, and the camshaft didn't move. Looks like the timing belt is the most likely culprit. (I remember my mom's 1985 240 turbo behaving very similarly when it stranded me in the desert about 10 years ago. I was the timing belt and pulley then.)

Thanks again, that was a big help! Time to get my hands dirty.

I'm curious as to what you mean by "whizzing". With a broken timing belt, the starter will still turn the engine over (a bit quicker than normal) so the alternator and fan also turn but because the cam and idler (distributor) are no longer connected, neither move.

So if the whizzing is a sound and the engine isn't turning over, then I'd check the starter. Or broken crankshaft, loose crank pulley?
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.