First, you have a B230FT with Jetronic 2.2 system.

It has the hall-effect sensor and no CPS on the flywheel. I don't think it has the RSR in '86. That is a biodegradable wiring harness year. Is the harness original?

Do you have a fully charged battery when trying to start? These cars don't like weak or underpowered batteries.

Have you checked for voltage at the fuel injectors while cranking the engine? You can use a test light on the green wire of the injector to ground. If the test light lights up while cranking then you have the injectors firing.

Have you check the over boost switch? What about the pins on the ECU? Sometimes they corrode and have a weak connection.

Have you tried to disconnect the AMM with the fuel inj. relay in and then starting the car?

Have you checked the vacuum lines from the PCV system to the intake and turbo hose?

-Cleaned ECU/other grounds
-Injectors are getting voltage, grounds are good
-Pulled return line off fuel rail, healthy amount of gas
-Swapped in ECU, FPR, ignition powerstage, IAC, fuel pump relay and coil that came off a working car
-Fuel filter installed correctly
-Distributor cap and rotor look ok, cleaned the contacts
-Plugs are getting nice fat spark
-Spark plug wires are routed correctly
-Inline fuel pump is definitely turning and staying on
-Fuel is reaching the combustion chambers
-Swapped the FI relay with 4 other ones
-Nothing clogging up the intake
-No catalytic converter to clog
-Audible fuel pump noise and fuel relay when cranking
-New fuel filter
-Tachometer reads the RPM when cranking
-Checked for vacuum leaks
-No radio supression relay

Tried starting it yesterday and it stumbled a couple of times and flooded. Poured some ATF into the chambers, tried again today and there was nothing besides the starter cranking.

I still have to assemble a rig to test the fuel pressure so there's that factor still but if it's fuel it still doesn't make sense. I took off the intercooler elbow and sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body (with throttle partially open to wide open) while it was cranking and it didn't start.

Not sure how you have determined that you have a fuel delivery problem. You have gone from injectors to check valve. The check valve will not cause a no start.
The 3 things to check when starting to diagnose a no start assuming engine cranks noemally
Is the cam turning (just look in the oil filler)?
Do you have spark at the plugs?
Are the fuel pumps running?
Answer to these questions will determine where the diagnosis process goes.
What are the symptoms of the no start?
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David Hunter

Not sure how you have determined that you have a fuel delivery problem. You have gone from injectors to check valve. The check valve will not cause a no start.
The 3 things to check when starting to diagnose a no start assuming engine cranks noemally
Is the cam turning (just look in the oil filler)?
Do you have spark at the plugs?
Are the fuel pumps running?
Answer to these questions will determine where the diagnosis process goes.
--
David Hunter

All four injector plugs read .80V, the ground pulses to 1.4V when cranking.

Battery has enough juice to power the starter so I'm going to take a look at the injector wiring and ground. Would a bad ballast resistor cause this?

You can make a pressure gauge for testing purposes by taking the connections off of an extra fuel rail (recycling yard) and making up what you see in the photo at your local auto and hardware supply.

Randy

Radio suppression relay.

Inadequate fuel pressure could result in a no start condition. Both pumps are coming on, relay is working, fuel is coming out of the return line, new fuel filter, FPR came off a working car.

I'll take a look at the injectors and post back.

12V on both sides of injectors with key on. When you start cranking the 12 will drop some and the side going to the ECU will be getting pulsed to ground which should trigger spark, not all meters will see this pulsing.
RSR? what is that?

If the fuel pumps are running you almost certainly have fuel rail pressure, that pressure will stay for as long as 3o minutes after shut down. Are they running?
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David Hunter

You should see 12VDC switched at the injector connectors.
The plus 12 is constant and the ground return is switched by the ECU.

Look here for troubleshooting:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.