I used my Mityvac 8000 today... the damn bleed screws SUCK... literally
I even packed the threads with gasket sealer (after 2 other sealers) and it just does not work.
Just keep the 3-pump and Hold method and you'll be ok.

2¢
--
'92 244 NOW w/ M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings)

A different point of view here.

If the pressure bleeder suits you, great, vacuum bleeding works (just differently).

I've experience with both methods. Both produce acceptable results.

Vacuum bleeding is my choice as the MityVac or its equivalent takes up little space in my crowed garage, serves other purposes such as testing vacuum operated components and can easily travel with me in my toolbox.

I wrap the bleed screw threads with teflon tape, but this is more for keeping them from ever locking down too tightly than to prevent air intrusion.

When I first used the vacuum method I was a bit perplexed by the air bubbles in the extracted brake fluid. However, I learned to ignore the bubbles and just do the job based on either the amount of fluid withdrawn through each bleeder and/or the color (cleanliness) of the fluid. Not that much needs to be bled to insure an air free system.

Regards,

Tatra Mike
San Diego, California

1985 244 "Alfsen" (wife's car - the good one)
1984 245 "Buster" (in Seattle with the relatives}
1985 245 "Cosmo" (currently at anchor in the side yard)
1985 245 "Daisy" (back seat down, full of tools, the work truck)
1985 245 "Earl (Hurray, another stick shift!)

I too was disappointed with the MityVac. It's a pain to use and while it's good at pulling a vacuum it's practically impossible to get a good seal so as to NOT suck air.

This may be my motivation to finally break down and buy a Motive Products "power bleeder". (And get around to changing my brake fluid)

Slightly off topic- What's the proper way to dispose of brake fluid these days?

-Will
--
854 / 244 / Mini

The Motive bleeder is the only way to fly in my book. Makes the bleeding itself too easy compared to jacking the car up and pulling the wheels off. I've been alternating our non-ABS cars between the amber and blue fluids so it's easy to tell when you've got all of the old stuff out.

As for disposing of old fluids, call your city/town waste department. Around here, the city has what I call "toxic waste amnesty day" once or twice a year. They'll take pretty much anything (oil, ATF, brake fluid, coolant, paint). Last fall, I brought 25 gallons worth of gross in well labeled containers. :-)

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve project
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

... to pressurize the MC Rez with a hose and fitting adapted to a spare MC cap.

A cheap gauge tapped into the pressure hose tells me I when have about 15psi. When it drops to 10psi or so, 4 or 5 pumps brings it back up.

I do have to top off the MC a few times (on a complete 4-wheel bleed/flush) but it's not a big deal, except for bleeding off the vacuum before opening the cap.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

i never use anything other than a pressure bleeder made from a garden sprayer. works evrytime

If you're not using the Motive Products bleeder, you're doing it wrong.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

kourt

My $.02:

Three pumps and hold -- don't let the pedal fall farther than it does at a stop light, unless you're using a new master or plan on buying one.

Gravity works if the system is clean and bled regularly, otherwise a clog will have you losing patience and stepping on the pedal.

A garden sprayer connected to a spare rez cap was my choice until I let the rez run dry a couple times not paying attention.

The whole operation was made simple and almost idiot-proof for less than the cost of one rebuilt caliper, when I first used this tool.






--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Don't be irreplaceable. If you can't be replaced, you can't be promoted.

As always, the wisdom about not going further than average pedal travel on a used cylinder is sage advice indeed..please don't ask how we know this, eh? I'm a big fan of my Motive system, which I've owned for about 6 years now. The only other thing that I seem to have found is that the 240s bleed a little easier with the rear end elevated slightly, about 8 inches to a foot. Art, have you experienced this, or is it my imagination at work?

I have used the pedal pump method and while it works you need a helper, the motive power bleeder I got a few years ago is the best by far. I rigged a spare MC cap from a 122 to be able to use it on everything I drive, glad I bought it.

Did you use the cap from a single line brake system or the later dual line?

I'd like to find a way to hook up such a bleeder to my '66 122 with a single line system, but I didn't think it was possible.
--
http://dylans122.blogspot.com

Here's what I did Dylan, I took the cap off of a Stock single line MC that was leaking. I had replaced it with a good one but figured I'd need it for something, Glad I kept it. I took a bolt, one where the thread doesn't go all the way to the head of the bolt. With a drill press and vise i drilled a hole through the bolt and cut the head off, then I drilled out the rivit holding the metal flange on the underside of the MC cap. Drill out a hole through the MC just large enought for the bolt to slip through, the top of the MC has a hex shape in it already for the nut of the bolt. tighten the nut and bolt through the MC, seal it all from the underside with red RTV silicone and when it's cured you're good to go. I slipped a large O-ring over the thread of the MC cap so it seals nice and air tight, have yet to have any pressure leakage while bleeding the brakes of my 66 or 67 wagons.

Here's a few pics so you get a real good idea of it all, hope it helps you out. I picked up a length of clear hose for it like the stock one and some small hose clamps for the cap & bleeder bottle ends. Works like butta!

Be sure to flush the bleeder and hose out with methal hydrate so all the rubber parts don't get all hard and brittle from the brake fluid between use.

I just got a cap out of the PUP that fits my master cylinder and added a barbed hose fitting.

You could use your own cap and put a brake fluid resistant cap over the fitting when your done. Just as long as the seal is air tight and of course leak proof.

Then on the attached hose you add a regular air hose disconnect fitting. Then hook it up to a air hose coupler. Just like a spray gun or blow gun.

Use air from the your air compressor regulated down to what ever you like. Start low so you don't blow the reservoir out of the "o" rings About 10 psi will work. On some large gauges just until you see it wiggle up. Plus you can hold your finger over the hose to check. This is not rocket science. It is back yard philosophy!

I did it this way because I didn't want another tool laying around. Special fitting caps to put the fluid below the top of the resevoir and such.

With those tanks that use pressurized fluid. They exposed the fluid to a larger surface area of air contamination while in use OR storage. Then you "should" have to clean it out real good between those variable brake fluid requiremnts of some customers or enthusiasts.

How many people wash out their beer mugs between every beer at home? Depends on what having "A" beer IS, "IS". I don't drink, so I have no clue.

If I were in business, another story. Would be like a bartender. Got to have volume!

If you are use to using the pump method, you already know to watch the level. Just uncouple the line and refill.

AS Art put it, my $.02 worth.

Phil

Motive power sells different caps for different vehicles, uh, "furrin" like our Volvos, and, uh "'murican" Ford, etc. You can go to their website and source one easily, or give them a call.