OK, so my next project is replacing the Control Arm Bushings (F&R) on the 93 wagon. Looks like my options are: IPD poly $181, FCP $87, Tasca $? (not listed). My search and research has resulted in lot's of questions. Do I really need a torch (I don't have one and really don't want to use one on the CA. I do have a sawzall, drill and bench vice. Is the IPD set worth the extra $ (easier to install or better ride or longer lasting?). I have new IPD poly sway bar bushings and Volvo/Monroe struts. Can I do this w/o using a machine shop? Maybe rent a press from the local parts store or rental place?
Thanks,
JP

JP,

Here is Art's post with what he uses as far as a press set up for the rear control arm bushings.

Notice the Boge/Volvo bushing at the top of the first photo. This is what the bushing looks like when you get it from Volvo. Or FCP for that matter. But in this case you get what you pay for. If you go rubber, buy from Tasca or your local dealer. You may be able to get by with a vise, if it has a large opening and clearance. These are actually quite easy. No torch is necessary. I recommend using the IPD Super Pro bushings. They are easy to install. They come with the same lube "gack" that Ryan mentioned. They come with a shell and you press that back into the bracket, then smoosh in the polly bushing itself. I've not installed both rubber and poly in different cars.

Here's the entire thread following up a recent install that Kourt99 and myself performed.

Probably 9/10 times the front control arm bushings are fine. If yours look nice and centered, and if you don't want to remove the entire control arm then LEAVE them be. You either 1) need a press and configuring a push out-push in set up is very tricky, but doable 2) you'll need a torch. period. you can burn the rubber in flames, then push out the center. then you'll need a method that Ryan mentioned- either a hacksaw or sawzall. you run the risk of cutting the welded in shell of the control arm itself. this all is a LOT OF EFFORT. 3) you can hammer them out yourself, in a vise using a drift. this takes considerable effort and usually result in something like the first picture below.

The picture is a bit fuzzy, but those dents are the inevitable result of hammering out those bushings. In my project, I had brake fluid from the brake junction box that had dripped on the drivers side CA, took of the paint, it started to rust and the front bushing was massacred. I had a machine shop try to press them out. They gave up because of #1 above and hammered them out. Then I had them sandblast everything which resulted in what you see below. I put two coats of POR-15 paint over what you see. That stuff is amazing.









So the moral of the story is do the rear CA's yourself and leave the front CA's alone unless your ready for a big project

Jason

Thank you 245! Saved! I'm gonna take a second look at those front fronts. I know the front rears are toast. The main constraint I have is I've got to be able to throw the saddle back on Monday morning, or take the Mrs's brick when she's not looking...

Tasca OEM rubber is the only way to go for an OEM ride quality (ie: not harsh) and OEM longevity. IMHO.
Charles

You may likely find that the front control arm bushings are OK.... so it's just the rear bushing that'll need done. Most folks go poly here.... and you can hack the rubber out. Fire really is your friend. Warm up the shell enough from the outside, and you may be able to push the rubber out.

FCP has the bushings cheaper, because they expect you to reuse the bushing shells where applicable. IPD will supply the shells. Being a cheapskate, I'd reuse the shells. IPD also tends to supply this wonderful marine lube. Messy as all get out, but it's long lasting, and safe with poly. I ordered a bunch of this gack recently.

The rear end is a bit of a different beast. You'll almost definitely want to take the track rod, torque rods, and trailing arms to a machine shop to press out the bushings. The big tabs you'll need to take care of yourself: Either with the tool to replace with rubber, or use poly in the existing shell. It's a gamble to expect a bench vise to push some of these bushings out. Sometimes a 12-ton press can't muster it.

An alternative to machine shops if you're going poly, is to get "medieval" on stuff: Burn/saw/whatever the rubber out. Shells can be extracted with liberal application of a hacksaw - reassembled with the blade through the bushing - a die grinder, sawzall, big hammer, whatever. It works, but it's really just no fun at all. Sometimes paying a shop with the right tools beats several hours of really hard labor with the wrong tools.

-Ryan

--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Medieval, you say?



Man, my driver's side rtab was a multi-effort beast that ultimately involved heat and a sawzall. Passenger's side took about an hour. Go figure.

Nice!

Always fun to roll the car out afterward, revealing the piles of rusted destruction! :-)

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Clarification: The front control arm is removable, you can take it off the car and take it to a shop to press out the large and small sleeve in which the OE rubber resides. Or you can torch, sawzall etc. the rubber out in a vise and press in new poly. I'm not certain if they sell rubber to press in the old sleeve.

Rear: The tough to replace trailing arm bushing is attached to the car, you can't take it to a shop. IPD used to rent a tool, they no longer do. There are instructions to make the TAB tool on BB. Or you can torch or sawzall the old rubber out and press in new. Depending on how limber you are you may or may not want to work in that tight space on your back. You may want to go through your phone book and call various foreign car shops that work on Volvos and see if they have the TAB tool, and what it will cost for them to do the job. If they don't have the tool I wouldn't let them touch it. You can replace the other rear bushings yourself [sway bar, panhard rod]

Parts; I did my fronts first and used OE Volvo rubber. I then had the courage to tackle the rear, was fortunate to rent the IPD tool and used Poly for the rear. If I had it to do over I would use poly on the front, firmer but not harsh and they are supposed to last longer than rubber.

I did change out my front sway bar bushings and end links to poly and could immediately tell the difference in firmness.
--
1988 245A. Past: 1979 245A; 1987 244 M47; 1971 164E

OEM Front Rubber is shown here:
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213668&chapter=&Sectionids=19,2512&groupid=20090&subgroupid=62442&componentid=0&make=36&model=240&year=1993&graphicID=E530090&callout=5&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

and rear is shown here:
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213668&chapter=&Sectionids=24,2788&groupid=20090&subgroupid=62322&componentid=0&make=36&model=240&year=1993&graphicID=E530140&callout=4&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

Total of about $130 for front and rear control arm bushings, for both the front and the rear (eight total bushings). That said, you likely only need the outer bushing in the front and the rear bushing in the rear.

Oscar - I'm going to do the fronts first - divide and conquer. So w/ the torch or sawzall method the outer sleeve remains in place? Is there a down side to that?
ZJZ – thanks for the link (it worked), the other day it would only show me 700 series bushings. Murphy told me to do both inner and outer.
I checked my Bentley last night – they show using a bench vice w/ “Special Volvo Tool xxxx”. Has anybody tried a bench vice? I saved Art’s post w/ photos of some pipe nipples used for the SVT’s (just can’t figure out how to access it) . Bentley also calls for the bolts to be torqued w/ the car on the ground. I’m thinking I could put the front up on ramps and the rear up on jack stands so I can get to the bolts. Also it looks like I need to replace the 3 ball joint nuts and the nuts (and bolts?) used to mount the control arm.

I did the front 'rear' bushing on the bulkhead with just a vise - it wasn't too terrible. I'm sure Art's method would've worked better. To access your saved posts, just click on the 'SAVE' button from any and they'll be listed.

Yes, the suspension bits are supposed to be torqued while at rest on the ground - so you can get things installed and mostly tight, but it'll take a bit of crawling around or a friend with a drive-on lift to do the final tightening.

The front control arm drops off with the one bolt through the front bushing, three bolts that hold on the rear bushing nacelle and the three ball joint bolts. Makes for easy work - certainly easier as Oscar indicated than the rear. Don't forget the torque rods in the rear while you're in there as well - if the other bits need replacing, they'll be the next clunk that you hear when the other new bushing are installed.

Dang it, that post from Art w/ the photos and sizes of the pipe nipples and plugs is no longer in my saved folder - Art if you're out there can you please post that link?

Ok, I've got that link, next question (I still have at least 15 left...) is regarding the nuts and bolts removed to removed the CA. Which ones (besides the 3 ball joint nuts) need to be replaced?

I've reused mine and been running for five odd years (with exception of the ball-joint mounting nuts) to no ill effect, though I'm sure others would advise to replace them all.