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What to do before installing replacement engine 700

90 740 turbo. 284K miles. Second engine and trans (both from PO).
My current engine had a cracked block, which was repaired in 2001, and recently developed very low oil pressure and a HG leak. I've put 1000 miles on it (good ol Frank the Tank) since.


I finally found a 90 engine in a local yard. It's a long block, already pulled and supposed to have decent compression. They want $400 and offer a 3 month guarantee. They also have a 91 engine, which has not been pulled.

Assuming, I go through with this, I'll replace all engine fluids, etc., move over the water pump I have, the stupid EGR arrangement, and all that.

As for the engine itself, it came out of what I believe was a running vehicle.

I plan to replace the oil pump, which requires a new oil pan gasket.
I also plan to have the valves adjusted.
I expect I will need new intake and exhaust gaskets, and to replace the seals that always leak on these engines. I also have a timing belt to replace the one that's installed, and would install new heater hoses, and check some common PITA problems like the CPS.


What else should I seriously invest my time and money into? Does anyone know of a good place to find an engine stand for working on it? There's a harbor freight about 30 miles from me, but... car's not up to the trip.

I don't particularly have the time, money, and most especially the experience for a complete rebuild. The most I've disassembled was a single cylinder dirt bike engine, all the way down to removing the piston from the crank.
I'm going to school more than full time, working 15-25 hours a week, and have limited space.



Thanks for the advice,
William

PS Oh yeah, I'll probably find out the cause of the overboosting because I really don't want to play replace and engine twice due to a faulty wastegate.

--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond








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What to do before installing replacement engine 700

If it were mine...

I would purchase an Elring gasket set (and not the less expensive Scan Tech offering) and pull the head. Check it for electrolosis damage as well as plane and have a clean up cut taken on it if it was out more than .004.

I would lap the valves (in 25 years of red block work I have only ever had one valve that needed ground or replaced)and replace the stem seals and hushers. I would set the valves.

Install your almost new waterpump, new front seals, new rear main seal, maybe a tensioner, and a timing belt.

New Orings on the oil cooler and extra attention and new seal on the oil return line between the block and turbo. Clean up the opening on the block and the end of the return line. Install a new seal with RTV and then fill the seam between the block and the line with RTV once the other end is bolted to the turbo.

I would install OEM exhaust gaskets and put it in the car with new motor mounts.

Good luck.

Randy








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What to do before installing replacement engine 700

Thanks for the response. Does anyone else have anything to add?

Does anyone have experience with send-out rebuilds?

I plan to always go with authentic parts when I can, including the elring engine gasket sets. It's a lot cheaper in the long run to spend the cash now.

Happy Bricking,
Will
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond







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