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Hello Brickboarders
New guy here needing some direction. Just purchased a 1989 245 GL with an automatic. Nice rust free Texas car that I knew needed some work. I bought it from a friend who was moving out of the area, who owned it for close to a year. He made some substantial repairs to it when he bought it, then drove it without anything else major happening. It served him well, and he put quite a few miles on it.
When I bought it, the previous owner said that it had started having problems with starting right away in the colder Illinois winter. It would crank a bit longer than normal, and not run well with the check engine light on untill it gets warm. Light goes off and it idles a touch rough, but otherwise runs fine aside from the gas mileage dropping off noticibly. He noticed that when it got frigid cold it would fire right off, so he started to look for excess fuel, and found that unpluging the cold start valve/injector helped with start up when the weather warmed to around freezing. (He noticed fuel sitting in the intake.) Cold start valve leaking or injectors?
He changed the oil the day I got it from him, but he said I should clean the flame trap as he ran out of time. I cleaned it , but noticed when I pulled the hose off the oil seperator, there was a bunch of gunk in it. I dug out what I could, and figured I would do some more tinkering with the car when my Bently Manual arived.
Sorry this is so long, but here is where the real problem is. I made it about 8 miles from home the other morning, and noticed the light smoke comming from under the hood at a stop light. Went a block to a gas station and checked under the hood. It was pumping all the oil out the front of the engine at an alarming rate. Picture cutting the top off a fresh quart of oil and pouring it over the front of the engine and you get the visual. I shut the engine down before I heard any noises, so I think it survived. In that alone I feel fortunate.
Any ideas? Flame trap build pressure and push a cam seal out? Front main seal? Are there any other seals? I'm not conserned with finding what seal went bad and replacing it, but I would like to have an idea of the cause. Where should I start after the oil leak/gush is corrected?
If you made it to the end of this post, thanks for your patience and responses!
Eric
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You sound like you have a good handle on this 'new to you' vehicle.
It does sound like you popped out one of teh three Front seals. Cam seal, intermediate seal and Crank seal.
For this High oil dump I would suspect a Seal popped out. Crankcase pressure can do this.
There is an Oil Separator under the intake manifold, follow the lower hose from teh Flametrap to it. Blow down into the Flametrap with the Oil Fill Cap off. you should be able to blow through it and hear the air at the Oil Fill.
To do this test: follow the top hose of the flametrap to where it clamps to the Large Intake Bellows. Disconnect it there and blow into there while putting your finger on the Small nipple on the Flametrap Holder. That'll tell you that both the flametrap and the Oil Separater is clear .
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html
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Sounds like there is a consensus and I will be ordering a new oil seperator and flame trap kit. I will probably get all the possible seals and a timing belt kit. I did just get the Bently manual and there seems to be a special service tool for most everything. I will get the one to hold the crank when changing the timing belt, but can I just use a large socket and tap each seal in like any other car? Also, the seal for the intermediate shaft. Is there a trick for holding the shaft, or should I try to find the tool for that as well?
I will probably tune it up and replace the drive belts as well. It looks as thought the bushings to mount the power steering pump could be replaced too. Anything else I should look at while I'm there?
I also have a question about changing out the oil seperator. I see a good write up in the manual about how it works, but nothing on how to get to it. It almost looks as if I would need to pull the intake to get to it. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for sharing you knowledge,
Eric
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Just one comment on the Oil Separator. I have not had luck taking it out of the Junkyard cars I have scrounged.
The Harness directly above it causes you to try and lift and pull toward the Drivers side fender. I have cracked the plastic edge that goes down into the block when doing this. I have yet to actually do the job on my car. When I do, I'm pulling the Intake and finding a way to unstarp the harness and get it out of the way.
P.S. did you try to blow down into the Separator to see if it's clogged?
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html
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"I did just get the Bently manual and there seems to be a special service tool for most everything. I will get the one to hold the crank when changing the timing belt,..."
• You can improvise something in lieu of most of those tools. I own both crankshaft counterhold tools for the B230 and B21/23, but I no longer use either one. Instead, I prefer a piece of cotton clothesline (nylon or similar is OK too), for what is called "The Rope Trick". It's quicker and easier than the "tool", and the basic steps are simple. I won't bother to post it here. Just ask when you're ready.
"...but can I just use a large socket and tap each seal in like any other car?"
• Yes but IMO it's best to improvise something with PVC and a large washer, so you can use the sprocket bolt to press the seal in evenly. This is especially true for the crank seal, which is hard see due to it's location. For that one I recommend the $25± factory tool, shown with ordering info IN THIS POST.
"Also, the seal for the intermediate shaft. Is there a trick for holding the shaft, or should I try to find the tool for that as well?"
•The sprocket has several holes in its face, so you can improvise some kind of jamming bar to hold it to loosen and tighten the bolt. Same for cam sprocket.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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You can use sockets to press the seals in. Better, go to Home Depot or Lowes and take the new seals to match pvc plumbing sections of a similar diameter. Use those as pushers. The tool to hold the crank is sweet, but you can use the rope trick documented on the BB too.
Removing the intake is excessive. When I remove the oil box, I take off the idle control valve (find it in a bentley diagram) and the throttle body (and clean the oil from that while doing your tune up). This only takes a few minutes then you have clear access to remove the box and clean oil from everything. It will look like this:
Take a stiff string or object about 12-16" and poke it down that tube (left hole) which leads down to the oil pan. Just make sure it's not being clogged by some wad of crud. Don't damage the rubber hose. Don't deal with replacing it.
I recommend an oil box from Volvo, not aftermarket. Volvo's two plastic sides are essentially melted together. Aftermarket glues them together. Heat from the engine can separate the aftermarket box. Make sure you get a new O ring from the dealer for under the box. It doesn't come with it!
Jason
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Thanks for the tips! I had no idea about the differences between the aftermarket and factory oil seperators. Good to know, and I'll get the factory one. I planned to source most everything from fcp groton. Any other things I should stay away from when ordering from them? I'm planning on getting the E-code lights from them anyway, as mine need help on both sides, so I can take advantage of the free shipping!
I have noticed from working on my cousin's Toyotas over the years that factory parts are actually worth the extra in most cases. Is this true for Volvos as well?
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The e-code lights are a subject unto themselves. Over the holiday break I installed a set, and there were a few things which were not intuitive. More importantly, you simply won't get the full benefit of the improved lighting without re-doing the supply AND ground wiring and using relays. I'll be happy to share my experience when you're ready for that project.
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"I have noticed from working on my cousin's Toyotas over the years that factory parts are actually worth the extra in most cases. Is this true for Volvos as well?"
IMO, yes. Best price for OE parts is Tasca. Call the number shown to order, or page down to the "Search by Part Number or Keyword" box to enter a part number and select Volvo. Then page down on the response screen for price info. They ship from Cranston, RI.
You can find most part numbers at FCP. Then use number to get Tasca's price. If FCP is aftermarket and cheaper, it's probably inferior, IMO.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Flametrap is a good place to start.
Another source of an oil leak is the valve cover cap (where you pour the oil into the engine). If that seal is torn or missing, it will spray oil all over the place.
Replacing seals isn't too hard when you've got a good manual handy (or the brickboard.) Also a good time to replace the timing belt.
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http://dylans122.blogspot.com
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The problem is in the oil-air separator box under the intake manifold. It will be plugged. The little flame trap device plugs, and then the box plugs. Cleaning the trap isn't enough. In fact just throw it away when you're done.
Pull the box and clean it or replace it.
I had a customer car that blew out the crank, cam and intermediate shaft seals, and lost enough oil to short out the alternator. Messy repair.
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Just wanted to thank everyone for helping me get going in the right direction. I'm sure I will have more questions as I start sorting through the car. Strange start up issues, O/D not wanting to engauge when cold and operating fine when warm, etc...
I'll get to those later, but for now I think I have plenty to work on.
I have been sort of living on the RX-7Club.com for quite some time to help me get going on my 1984 RX-7. They have a pretty good search engine on their forum that has helped me find stuff out without annoying anyone. (Brickboard seems to be a bit friendlier bunch... more flame free environment. Thanks all.) Is there a search engine on here that I am missing?
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Never mind...just found it. And the rope trick!
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There is a wealth of information to be found here, and welcome. I'll just throw a couple of things out that may make things easier for you and your new 21 year old vehicle. I'll definitely vote for Volvo factory pieces for a lot of things like airboxes, seals,most suspension components, and others. It seems like a lot of suppliers are only intersested in plugging the hole with a part, rather than making sure the part is of high quality. If you've got questions, we've certainly got opinions! There are some quirky things about these ol' Swedes that can drive you nuts, but there isn't much out there that hasn't happened to a previous owner somewhere along the line. This is undoubtedly the most patient and valuable resource that I've found for keeping my 4 Volvos going.
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