My 1991 240 makes all kinds of scrunches and crunches from the front end now whenever I go over a bump. There is also a rattling type noise when I ride over road surfaces that are not exactly smooth. I feel sure that I need to replace the struts since I have over 223,000 miles on it. Is there a suggested order for what other items I might need to replace to help solve this problem?? Thanks.

Re-tighten/torque everything. If you do the sway bar bushings and endlink bushings, I endorse using poly, really gives firm but smooth control, better in my experience than rubber. You can reuse the endlink and press or cut out the old rubber and press in new polyurethane bushings using a vise. If you replace the large bushing on the A arm and decide against poly, use OE Volvo for which there are different part numbers for the left and right side.
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1988 245A. Past: 1979 245A; 1987 244 M47; 1971 164E

I put my bet on the rear bushings of the lower a arms, if the sound sounds like it is coming from directly under your feet. Do check everything though (tie rods inner and out, ball joints upper strut mounts) if it is that high of mileage and you don't know the condition of things. If the thing isn't bobbing up and down when you hit bumps, don't suspect the struts for a clunk noise, upper strut mounts maybe but not the struts themselves unless the nut at the top or the gland nut is loose, you could check for that too, but the rear bushings on the lower a-arms is my number one suspect.
Charles

Get the front end up on jack stands securely. Spend some time, maybe an hour or more, under there getting familiar with everything. Go over it with a fine tooth comb. Eliminate the easy stuff first. You'll probably be able to get a good look at the sway bar bushings. The rear bushings of the control arms go bad much more frequently than the front bushings of the control arms. Also check the ball joints and tie rods. Below is a list, courtesy of IPD, that goes over some things that should be checked before you spend any money. On one of our new-to-us 240's we eliminated a very noisy and consistent rattle/clang simply by tightening up some loose bolts at the rear A-arm bushings bushing cups.

Here’s an IPD Tech Tip for front end clunks. Thank you to IPD. Maybe this will help.

Check the following first:

Front crossmember bolts (2 on each side) accessed from each side of the engine compartment. 17 mm socket, loosen one-half turn, torque to 55 ft pounds.

A-Arm front bushing bolts (2 total) accessed from under the car behind the steering rack bellows. With weighted suspension, 19 mm socket, loosen a bit, torque to 54 ft. lbs.

A-Arm rear bushing mounts, three bolts each side, 14 mm socket, loosen a bit, torque to 29 ft lbs.

Rear A-Arm nut is hard to reach, torque to 40 lbs.

My son's car clunked like crazy. It had very loose A-Arm rear bushing mount bolts. Torqued them and the clunk disappeared. Free and easy.

Hope this helps you out.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC ::::: 1981 242, IPD bars and Turbo wheels, M46:::::::1984 760, B23FT, M46, waiting to donate engine to 242:::::::1997 S90

I have a 91 240 and I knew the front end needed work but
I took it in for an alignment (lifetime alignment $130.00
at Firestone, this is her third alignment)and I was informed
that they could align her
but it would not make much difference since she was
overdue for front-end work.
Estimate cost at Firestone $1,700.00.
My cost for better parts $500.00.
I am in the process of replacing Struts and upper supports,
Ball Joints, Tie Rod Ends and Sway Bar Link Bushings (weather permitting).

All seems to be going well with the help of the loaner tool
program at Autozone. I borrowed pushers, pullers, forks (ball
joint and tie rod separater tool, a hammer worked quicker and
better),Spring Compressor(be careful) and a torque wrench.

It took about three hours to take the original parts off (I had
practiced at the salvage yard). Struts and their towers were covered
with strut oil that had leaked out over time. Struts were weak
and would push in and pull out very easy. Ball joints and tie rod
ends rubber were torn and ripped up. Sway bar link bushing were
bad, upper bushings were pancaked almost flat and lower bushings were
still intack but I replaced because of age.

I have installed the ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links.
Today I will install the struts and their upper supports, put the
tires back on and test drive her (weather permitting).


Things to watch out for...
1) Secure car on stands/blocks.
2) Take your time.
3) I used a impact wrench to remove and replace the
ball joint nut and the strut end upper nut because
the stud spins with the nut.
4) Have a good (table model is best) vice to install the sway bar link
bushing or just buy the link with the bushing already installed.
5) A table vice would of been helpful to hold the ball joint to remove and
replace from its plate.
6) Take your time.
7) Get the right tools to make the job easier.


Good luck,
Joseph

assume nothing! start simple and cheap

check the front end bushings FIRST particularly the sway bushings that mount the bar to the frame and the rear front control arm bushing. these are easy to see and cheap to fix.

after you determine the bushings are solid or you renew them and the front end noises continue only then consider struts.