Well I wasn't feeling up to the work so I took the daughter's 1984 244 (218,000 miles but perfect body and interior) to a local Indy shop for t-belt, tensioner, front seals, water pump, v-belts, PS mount bushings. Wow! Now I remember why I did my own work. The bill was $964! They do good work though. The shop mechanic pointed out some work which needed to be done:

1. Both motor mounts needed to be replaced, left one broken, right sagging

2. Power steering fluid dirty, needs replacement

3. Transmission fluid needs replacement

4. Fuel filter old

5. Transmission mount oil-damaged, needs replacement

6. Front transmission seal leaking

I've done numbers 2 and 3 and my son will help with the motor mounts since I can't work on my back under the car with out getting sick from vertigo. He'll also help with the fuel filter. I need the forum's help with numbers 5 and 6.

I ordered a new transmission mount. All the on-line sellers showed a square mount. However, when I looked at the car today, I saw a round mount. Question, is the square mount the correct one and will it replace the old round mount?

As for the leaks in the transmission, there is pink transmission oil on the front of the transmission ABOVE the joint where the transmission oil pan is bolted. Thus I assume the front seal is leaking. My questions are:

1. Is this a case where the transmission should be pulled out and all the seals replaced?

2. Has anyone got an estimate of a fair cost to have this done?

3. Should this be done at a transmission shop or could a good Indy shop handle it?

Note: I am assuming that the forum's advice would be to NOT use a leak sealer additive. I am I right on this? I also would have the shop replace the rear crankshaft seal and shifter bushings if I have the transmission pulled.

Thanks for any advice from you good folks.

Sounds as if the shop may have "stacked" the labor charges for each job description when in reality there are all part of the same job except for the pump bushings. If you do have them pull the tranny make sure you do not get charged for pulling it twice (ie once for the tranny seal and once for the rear engine seal). I don't think you should go to a transmission shop, they always want to say you need a rebuild AFTER the tranny is pulled out. Any competant shop can pull the tranny and deal with seals.
--
David Hunter

If the tranny level is not low then the leak is not bad. Transmission mount would fail quickly because of higher load when the motor mount(s) are shot ... I took my wife's car (Chevy cavalier 2005) to the dealer once for oil change. They told me that there is a transmission leak and it needs new semi-axle seal or something. I ignored it and just changed transmission fluid which was overdue, took it back half a year later and the leak mysteriously disappeared. I even pointed to manager that there was a leak detected and seal replacement recommended by them during my last visit and he said that they did not find any.. ;)

-Serge

The transmission fluid appeared to be low when I got it back from the shop but I may not have had the dipstick in all the way. Now that I have flushed and refilled the transmission, I'll watch the fluid level closely. I also plan to wash the transmission to help spot any leak.

I tried that idea of tying a cord to the spring "clip" which holds the transmission dipstick in the tube. The other end of the cord is tied to the idle control valve. This sure makes it easier to release and reinsert the dipstick! I think someone on this forum suggested this idea.

Thanks for the replies, I do plan to wash off the transmission and get a better look at where the leak is.

I didn't say but maybe it is obvious, the transmission is the automatic.

My '83 244 DL has had a leak from the front of the tranny for about 20K. My AW 71 has a 2 part bell housing arrangement, and a small leak seeps out from that seam, then continues on the top edge of the tranny flange where the pan attaches. The fluid continues around to the rear end of the tranny, then drips down the rear of the pan. Usually a drip forms on the pavement the size of a dime. My Volvo shop says that there is a gasket that forms the seal between the two halves of the tranny bell housing; for a cost of $600. I keep an eye on fluid level after every two or three days.

Hope this helps, Todd

Your description sounds similar to my car except the leak is faster. I had a small puddle of oil about the size of a saucer after a night's leaking. I'll watch the oil level. $600 is a lot but maybe worth it for a nice car.

Jim--before diving into transmission removal you should absolutely determine where the oil is coming from. First order of business would be to replace the motor mounts so driving the car is safe. Next would be to wash everything down from as high up on the tranny as you can get. You wouldn't want to replace the front seal and then find the leak is at the big "O" ring for the overdrive drum--the vertical seam just aft of the bellhousing. If the trans mount is wet from oil I'd suspect a bad output shaft bushing (easily replaced) and seal. I've only come across square auto trans mounts--but who knows? -- Dave

Double check to see that the ATF is not coming from a leaking transmission line. Over time the clamp that holds the lines in place in front of the transmission can wear a hole in them. I do not believe that it is common for the front seal to leak in these cars.

If you find it is in fact the front seal the transmission needs to come out to replace it. If you have have it out it would make sense to change out the engine rear main seal on the cranshaft at the same time. It just involves removing the flywheel and it is exposed.

It would be the best time to replace the rear bushing and seal on the transmission as well and there is a small seal on the shift linkage shaft where it enters the transmission. The bushings on the linkage could be replaced at this time, too.

It is not something that a transmission shop would have to do. Any good independent mechanic could do it.

Good luck.

Randy

Thanks for the tip about the transmission line. I'd forgotten about that and will have my son take a look at it.

Any thoughts on the "round vs. square " transmission mount?

I think manual trans used the round mount,and auto trans uses the square.But I've seen round and square mounts on auto's,so they are interchangeable.


Dan

Thanks, I'll try to see if the square fits, if not, I'll go to the dealer.

FCP Groton is showing both a round and a square transmission mount for a 1984 240. I don't have a clue as to the difference in application, but I would be inclined to replace yours with what is currently in use.

Randy