OK so ive been trying to fix this roblem for about 2 months now and im running out of patience. Car is a 1992 940 Turbo with roughly 156k on the clock.

About 2 months ago i had to replace the head gasket and turbo, i replaced the HG and the Turbo with a 15g at that time i also replaced the intake manifold gasket,Coolant temp sensor,vacc lines,plugs,wires,cap,rotor,timing belt,and exhaust manifold gaskets. Car ran fine for about a day then while driving it started to idle low and lack power then died. took about 45 min to restart then drove it to gf's house where i died again. after about 2 hours it started and i got it to her house(died down the street.) researched and replaced the crank position sensor,throttle position sensor and power stage. als replaced the fuel rail and injector o-rings since it looked a little out of whack and has seepage from #4 injector.

Replaced CPS took for a drive died 5 min down he road and had it towed again.

Finally had it towed home. ran a lot of tests using the ODb diagnosis system and found no coeds. IN test mode 2 for the sensor tests all come back ok. for test mode 3 all sensors and units click and or move.

Now after about a day of sitting it will start and idle fine , rev fine all the way to red line no problems or hesitation. after warming up a bit about 1/3 of the temp gauge it starts to sputter and idle low 400 or so lack all power and wont rev to save its life, and finally dies.

Im starting to be at a loss over what it could be since ive replaced a ot of stuff adn its none of those things. my last ideas are the fuel filter, thinking maybe it gets clogged after running for a few or the coil perhaps since i noticed when checking for spark its an orange spark instead of a blue/white spark. fuel pressure is fine reading 315kpa. compression is good reading 165 across the board. and the fuel pump relay wrks and has also recently been replaced.

any help you can offer is appreciated as this seems the foremost resource for viable information for volvos and i desperately need help! thanks in advance.

Coolant temp sensor?
Not the one for the guage, the one for the ECU. If bad or disconnected ECU thinks car is still cold after warm up and keeps fuel very rich, will stall and fail to run properly. Of course when engine cools it runs normally.

--
David Hunter

Is the weak spark apparent at all times or just after it starts to warm up and will not restart?

Have you tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake after it stalls?

Randy

how full is the tank? If the in-tank pump is dead , motor will die with low tank. You should hear pump whinning from the filler opening with the gas cap off.

Also, don't forget about the radio suppression relay rsr in the engine area. Over by the strut mount. Mine needed a new one.

Check those grounds too.

good luck

would i be able to hear the pump whirr with just turing the key to position II? i hear the underbody pump. but dunno about the intank one. will have to check it out.

well as an after thought when i recently had the fuel rail out of the car i powered it up and all injectors seem to spray plenty of gas out no problem, now woudl it still spray that much with a dead intank pump? and if it is the intank pump (which im starting to suspect more and more) how difficult are they to change and what else sould i consider while changing it?

hello
i dont believe just looking at the injector spray can tell you the proper fuel pressure.
rig up a gauge to find the correct fuel pressure.
good luck

Sounds like weak spark-I had an ignition amplifier go out on our '95 940T-would get worse and worse as car warmed up. This will not set a code. I used "freeze spray" (available at electronic supply houses-maybe Radio Shack) on the amp-it's behind the left headlight on the inner fender above the battery. It would always get the car running-for a few minutes-that's how I verified the bad amp. New part should be less than $100.
sredwine '94 940T has 236K miles, '96 960 has 153K

ok i think ive found the problem. injectors unhooked and starting fluid it fires right up. no whirr at all from intank pump so my money is on that the pump is bad and thus not gettin enough fuel. part is ordered today and will be here tomorow morning. time to go tear the old one out and inspectigate =D

DO NOT remove the old pump until you have the new one ready to install.

The plastic tank collar that holds the pump/sender in place will warp if removed and left off for as little as a day. Haynes manual speaks of this I think. Anyway, removing and replacing in one shot avoids the problem, otherwise you may need a new collar.

If you already have it off, go put the collar back on the threads and tighten it, that MAY help it hold its shape overnight.

Bob K
1994 945T - 260K
1988 244 - 310K
1984 242 - 140K
1994 F150 - 306K
1968 GT500KR - under resto
various Benzes as well - all over 120K

got it going turns out if was the intank pump. seems to be running well now couple sensor issues but nothing major. thanks again all for the input