So I've started on a big project of transferring a rebuilt B20 + M41 from a parts car to my 68 145. When the B20 was rebuilt, it was painted blue (ugh) and then over 20K miles got pretty dirty and oily.

The engine is going to be coming out of the car, so I'll have good access. What cleaning method can I use to get this thing clean enough to accept engine block paint in a nice red? My technique in the past has been various degreasers and elbow grease with brushes, but that never gets it clean enough to accept paint.

What other options do I have?

Get it acid dipped is the other option. Removes all rust and crud.

After doing whatever it takes to get the greasy stuff off, I finish with a wipe-down with lacquer thinner. Then I use masking tape on any areas I don't want to paint. A flat needle file takes off the excess tape very cleanly and much more accurately than a knofe or razor blade, the only exceptions being a few spots where there's not enough relief for the file to work.

The most accurate color match I've found is Plasti-Kote Ford Red #206. Duplicolor Ford Red is acceptable, although a bit on the orange side of the factory paint.

I've used POR-15 Marine Clean cut 50/50 with water to good effect. Works well with a grout brush from Home Depot. Finish off with a clean wire brush in a drill chuck and a final clean with pure spirits or paint prep solvent (I've also used Brake Cleaner in a pinch).

Still lots of work any way you do it. Put on some good music and start scrubbing!

Good luck,

Jim
--
'58 PV444
'66 1800S
'67 122S Estate
'70 142S
'72 142E
'78 242GT
All are pretty and run except the '78 The irony!
http://www.olddeadvolvos.com

I don't have any magic wand when it comes to prep for painting. I scrape as much crud off as I can with whatever tools I have, Simple Green it, power wire brush what I can reach, then its down to worn out tooth brushes and brake cleaner and lint free rags. Several years ago on the front cover of Rolling magazine there was a photo of a B20 that someone had taken the time to carefully grind off all the casting roughness on the outside of the block. It was absolutely stunning, and I just sat there awestruck that somebody had this much time and patience in their life. A far as paint goes, a lot of the usual reproduction parts folks carry what they claim is genuine color Volvo red block colored paint. I've use it in three of my cars, and it seems to work fine. I'm not sure if it is the correct hue or not, or if it matters much. VP AutoParts out of South Carolina,SwedishTreasures in Fayetteville, NY and Olof Malmberg at VintageImportParts carry this paint. I took me an inordinate amount of time to put on three coats, but it certainly wasn't a problem with the paint.

Has anyone considered media blasting an engine that hasn't been disassembled? My first concern would be protecting all the orifices, but if I could, 10 minutes in one of those rooms would save hours of work.

A pressure washer works pretty well.

I use rustoleum rusty metal primer and their Regal Red. Seems to be a pretty good match
for the Volvo red, unlike the Chevy Orange-red.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

The first thing you probably need is the patience of a Saint.
Heavy duty paint stripper, maybe aircraft type. Degrease as best you can, Gunk, Simple Green, brake cleaner etc. Break the surface with 200 grit paper before appling the stripper. Do a small test area first. If the blue paint hasn't bonded very well to the red underneath, it might come off quickly.
Don't give up. It might take a week to strip and 30 minutes to paint on one coat but like all paintwork, the end result depends on the prep.
Before and after pics please!