My fuel rail's been leaking so I'm in the process of replacing it as I type. (yes my keyboard is now filthy)
I was reading a previous post that was archived and not available for comment so here's a new one:

I've been through so many pages to find this one that I lost track of the post in question but it spoke of the updated fuel rail and its new mounting and retaining system.
1. There are two indented slots on the injectors above the connector. It said to slide the retainer into the slot of the fuel injectors nearest the 'tail'. What tail? There's an inlet, an outlet and a connector. Now one slot is a complete ring around the body of the injector. The other is a pair of slots down either side. As it seems I may not get a reply before I have to reassemble, I will assume the slots nearest the connector (is the wire what is referred to as the tail?) as they seem to be the best fit.
2. Two of the fibre washers on the nozzle end of the injectors popped off. I found them but they both cracked whilst snapping them back on. Problem? For now, I'm just putting them back in.
3. Lube on oRings? WD-40? Motor oil? Lithium Grease? None?
4. Are oRings available seperately?
5. Is there a book for the 96-98 940/960's? I've not been able to find one.

Thanx for any and all info.

...bob...

Update, for those of you who may be watching my progress with bated breath:

Pulled the injectors out of the fuel rail to the next 'notch' and tightened the stand-offs as tight as I dared.
Reassembled, started car...no leaks...so far. So apparently the 'tail' of the injector is the input end?
The oRings are BARELY seated in the head. Makes me a bit nervous but it is on the suction side of the engine so maybe they won't blow out. I would really like to see the standoffs be about 1/4" shorter.
Then the injectors would be seated in the rail as they were designed AND they would be seated further into the head as to be more secure.
C'mon Volvo, this is not what I expected from you.

Another note, the original, much sturdier, injector retaining bar had only three screws. The new one requires 5. So, if you're doing this, check stock. The original three will fit but you'll need two more.
If I had to do this again, I'd try JBWeld first. Great copious gobs of it all over the cleaned and burnished end of the rail.

And now to change the oil and the xmission mount...but first some barley therapy...

...bob...

Dear haileymon,

May this find you well. Those, who operate 960s, have reported efforts to stop a fuel rail leak with JBWeld and other patches. None worked for very long: fuel eventually found its way under the patch material.

While one could dismount the fuel rail, drain it, and solder the endcap, the cost of doing that likely would exceed the cost of a replacement rail unit. Soldering requires clean surfaces. The cap would have to be removed for cleaning. That might or might not be feasible.

Welding would only be feasible, if the metal is thick enough to take the heat. I doubt that it is.

At the risk of laboring the obvious, it is lethally dangerous to solder or to weld on a fuel rail still on the car. It will have fuel or fuel vapors in it. These vapors are highly explosive. Thus, in-place soldering or welding on a fuel rail should never be tried.

As a fuel leak creates a fire risk, you did the right thing by replacing the entire rail.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

The best way to fix the fuel rail is to peen around the end plug. Test with high pressure air. I have repaired over 30 rails this way.

Dear Paulii,

May this find you well. Great to hear from you!!!! As a Master-Tech, could you describe in detail (tools, angles [if applicable], number of blows, etc.), how you do these repairs and send it to Steve, for inclusion in the FAQs?

If one took a tubing cutter, and blunted the edge of the wheel, could that tool apply enough pressure to crimp the fuel rail end-cap, without cutting through the metal?

Even though this is not a problem found on 940s, I'm always interested to learn about top-notch fixes

Thanks again

Yours faitthfully,

Spook

Further questions:

Does the spacer bolt bottom out on the head? Mine got pretty tight with about 1/8" gap at the shoulder. The previous poster said he'd broken one off.