First off, many thanks to the TurboBricks forums for giving me the initiative and the correct info to perform all the work.

After spending about a year working with the LH 2.0 system, I had my '84 245 running as well as I could, but I felt a 240 could run better. I had replaced most everything under the hood, but the car was still a little lethargic and it was gving me rather poor fuel mileage.

Volvos are rather uncommon were I live, so when 3 '87 740s show up at my local PNP with running engines and shot transmissions, I decided to pull and stockpile the LH parts. I was able to snag a 544 ECU, 3 original 007 AMMs, 4 injectors and the fuel pump relays for less than a Ben Franklin. Then, I took the opportunity to buy a 2.2 harness here on the board (many thanks pageda!), and set out to fit the LH 2.2 in place of my 2.0 system. My intent was to install the 2.2 stuff and use the Chrysler ignition for the time being and possibily convert the car to run the more stable EZK system found on the 740 cars.

Unfortunately, I didn't do enough research and didn't discover that the 2.2 would not work with the Chrysler ignition until I got the new harness in the mail. After looking at a bunch of wiring diagrams, I found that the wiring to the coil changed in '85 and the '85-'88 2.2 cars used a different hall switch to trigger the ignition system and give the ECU a speed signal. Shoot. I decided then to fast forward to the EZK project and do both at once. I went back to the salvage yard and carefully pulled the EZ117K ignition system from two 740s (I wasn't happy with the overall condition of the first one I pulled...) including the knock sensor, and power stage. I got everything home and thought I was set again. Wrong again. After doing a lot of measuring, I found the wiring for the power stage would only reach to just behind the battery. After looking on TurboBricks, I found the power stage would not get enough cooling air in that location. So I went back out to the PNP and carefully separated the powerstage and coil wiring from the rest of the harness on a wrecked '89 240. I figured it would give me enough room to mount the power stage in the stock location on the late cars.

I then took the time to solder in new terminals with the correct connectors I salvaged. I also ended up pulling a few extra good wires from the rotten 2.0 harness I pulled from the wagon a year ago. I pulled the speed sender signal wire from the ICU harness and replaced it with one from the rotten harness to extend it to the under hood connector. I won't go into all the details of getting the ICU to work with the ECU as there are pages on TurboBricks that explain it much better than I can. I will provide the links at the end of this post. Then I wrapped the entire ignition harness in electrical tape to give it a "factory" similar appearance.

When I had the ignition harness ready, I pulled the 240 off the road this last Wednesday, hoping I could get all the work done in an afternoon. I started pulling the 2.0 stuff after lunch and had everything out by mid-afternoon. I started with the LH2.2 harness and had a little trouble getting it in the car as the routing of a few wires changed between the two harnesses. By late afternoon, I had the ignition harness in the car as well. I worked until well after dark, but ended up quitting when I couldn't see what I was working on with a trouble light. I started again yesterday afternoon, got all the wires properly routed, and double and triple checked all the connections. I turned the key and the engine cranked, but it would not start. I connected a timing light and confirmed I had spark, but not fuel. I tried a different fuel pump relay, with the same result. I checked everything under hood again, but nothing was amiss. I tried another pump relay and on relay 3 of 3, it fired right up.

I got the timing set and set out on a road test. The difference with the new fuel injection system and EZK is incredible! The car has better pedal feel and can now take hills in OD, when before it would have required a downshift to 3rd. And the idle quality is SO MUCH better. I have since been able to set the AMM properly with a dwell meter and the base idle as well.

Here is a list of the FI parts I had to change:
AMM - 002 to 007
ECU - 510 to 544
Distributor - 003 to 001
Knock Sensor - Chrysler to Bosch (Note: the bolt for the Bosch sensor has the same threads as the Chrysler sensor)
Idle Air Control - 520 to 501

In addition to these, I had to re-pin the fuel pump connector at the FI harness from a flat connector to a square one. This was easy as the terminals in the connector are the same. An easy job with a terminal pick. The other change is at the oil pressure sender. This easy to change as well. I used a spare terminal and pigtail from the 740 harness with the male bullet connector and soldered in a spade terminal to mate it with the '84 sender. I then used a spare single bullet connector I found under the hood of one 740s. I also ran seperate wire from the fuseblock up to the coil and back from the coil to the tach (both of these I pulled from the wrecked '89 240) to follow the wiring of the 85+ cars.

Here are the revelant links from TurboBricks on the EZK conversion:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=129382
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=100448

In conclusion, this latest batch of upgrades has done more for improving the driveability of the 240 than all the work I did on fixing the 2.0 system. This also leads me to believe I had a faulty Chrysler ignition computer. But overall, the combination of the high compression B23, LH2.2, and EZK ignition are the perfect combination. If anyone here would like more info on the details conversion, feel free ask!

Nick

Very nice work. Definitely TB material. Glad you posted here or I would have not seen the conclusion to your earlier questions here on the old Brickboard.

007 Air Mass Meter Resistance Test?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat.

Just one follow-up question related to the earlier post(s). Does the AMM voltage value apply to the 007 AMMs? I seem to remember that the "healthy" ones were in the neighborhood of 1.5-1.6 volts across the platinum wire.
Thanks for the kudos,
Nick

Nick, I don't know, but I suspect you're right. You have more -007 AMMs than I have, and I never owned an LH2.2-equipped car. Only helped a few others with them.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A Stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet.

I've thought about the conversion too. My 83 still has poor behavior mixed with good after doing a ton of stuff. Thinking the AMM is the weakest link.

What was the reason for the knock sensor change? If I switched out my chrysler distributor should I look for a chrysler knock sensor too? What is the difference other than quality? (maybe told in TB links?)

I compared the part numbers for the Idle control valve. I believe the same one is used from 83-88.

I currently am using a bosch distributor from an 85 (14mm shaft) in my 83. Looking at eeuroparts.com it shows the hall sender in the 83-84 bosch distributor works with the 85 (14mm shaft). But I also have the larger 14mm shaft in my 86 which ran fine.

I always thought it would be a pretty easy swap of the main harness, ICU, ECU, and AMM. I'll have to read the TB links and think about the swap. Parting out an 86 but the harness isn't updated. Thanks for the info and good read.

I thought the AMM was the weak link too, but I think the EZK ignition is what has made this swap so much better.

The reason for the knock sensor change has to do with the EZK. It changes from the single spade connector knock sensor found on the Chrysler system to the Bosch style sensor with a two-pin connector like the fuel injector or temp sender connector. From what I understand, the Chrysler knock sensor just won't work with the EZK.

As to the idle air control valve, that depends on the ECU. A while back I thought I had the wrong valve in my '84, so I picked up both the 501 and the 520 valve from the junkyard. When I had the 520 in the car, the idle when shoot up to 1500 rpms. As soon as I installed the 501, it dropped down 800. The only thing I can think of is the two motors are wired in opposite directions. I also think the '83s came with the 501, the '84s with the heated O2 sensor had the 520, and the 2.2 cars all had the 501 again. Check the valve; if it is gold-cadmium colored, it is probably the 501. If it is silver, it is probably the 520.

As to the distributor, I think it has to do with the hall sender. Aftermarket sources show the same hall sender used in all Bosch distributor from '83-88, but Volvo shows a different number for '83-84, than '85-88. The two senders are visually similar. Using the Bosch number on the body of the dizzy, the 001 and 004 distributors have been known to work. I did not try the Bosch 003 that was original to my '84 as a poster on TB stated it would not work.

As to the overall swap, it is not any more difficult than swapping out the harness. I had a few issues with fitting it as the harness routing changed between the 2.0 and 2.2 cars, but nothing that can't be done in a weekend's worth of work. I also changed the injectors to the '87-88 part as they spray a little more fuel. The 209s on the 2.0 through mid 2.2 are rated at 176ccs versus the 734s at 203ccs.

So far I have not had any problems with cold starting and I will post back with new fuel economy figures as soon as I go through a few tanks of fuel.

Let me know if this helps,
Nick