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Battery Tray Bolt Frozen 200 1983

Well it is always something! I wanted to remove my battery to give me great access for some other work. But the damn lock-down bolt won't come loose. I tried putting some liquid wrench on it and jiggled it all around before really trying to apply any pressure to the "eye" on the top of the bolt. Of course, the bolt just broke below the "eye". So I tired a set of vice-grips on the bolt as low down as I could get. But no joy there either. The thing seems well frozen. So any suggestions on how to remove it? It seems like no problem getting replacements from ipdusa.com. But I have to get the old one out of there. Thanks!








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    Battery Tray Bolt Frozen 200 1983

    If and when you get that rotted Swiss cheese battery box out, you might want to use some Never Seize on the new fasteners going back in. I've even seen at a couple of Volvo meets a person with a powder coated battery pan held in with stainless fasteners as mention elsewhere in the responses here. Sheese!








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    Battery Tray Bolt Frozen 200 1983

    No need to be all that careful you are not trying to save the old tray. Get a hold of the clamp with a pair of pliers and bend that sucker so you can get the battery out. Heck this is hacksaw, cutting wheel, and BFH territory.

    Had that same rotten pan in my 86 a couple of years back. Got an universal battery tray and hold down clamp from Auto Zone. Cheap, easy to install, had to drill one hole slightly I think. Besides being cheap and ready to pick up, no waiting for the brown ghost (you never see the ups man, the box just appears on the porch). The battery is now held in place by a rubber clamp and does not move. A lot better method of holding a battery down that the factory pan and clamp IMOH.

    Good Luck,

    Paul








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      Battery Tray Bolt Frozen 200 1983

      Thanks Paul. I will start to reef on the thing tomorrow. I like the idea of the tray your purchased. I never quite understood the approach Volvo took. Any chance you can post a link to the one you purchased?








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        Battery Tray Bolt Frozen 200 1983

        I did a tray swap on my old '86 Sophie.
        Not a biggie.

        Places like Autozone sell primarily two sizes of battery tray. The bigger is too big for the 240s. Once you get the old one out you'll see how much room you have. The trays have big slots to accomodate the hold down screws to keep the new tray in place. I think I had to drill the tray for one screw, the others were OK in the tray slots. I got stainless screws to avoid future pain. Hex size is 12 mm. but one original one was so rusted that 11 mm. worked!

        PB Blaster is my favorite for loosening rusted screws.

        Various size batteries will fit the replacement trays. I like to get the biggest one I can fit in there. Just pay attention to which side the ground and the + cables belong on. Not necessarily by the book because your cables might have been replaced and swapped around by now. For '86 the + was by the fender but in later years they put in on the other side.
        --
        Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.








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          Here are the links...... 200 1983

          I just love that plus battery post next to the fender. No chance of your wrench slipping and welding itself to the fender.

          Next Battery, getting the one that has the negative on the fender side.

          Ok the links worked for me click the blue and it should take to the part I used,

          The Battery Tray is a whopping $4.99.

          You will need the Battery Clamp Kit and that is $3.99.

          Good Luck,

          Paul








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            Here are the links...... 200 1983

            Wow - that's cheaper than the Acid Boxes this old-timers custome shops wants...

            This will make my Battery to Trunk Relocation a breeze. Can't wait to use the Battery Keys this summer.

            --
            '92 244 NOW w/ M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings)








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            Here are the links...... 200 1983

            Now now, Paul

            You know your math better than that!

            It must be a Government Code or something public schools teach. Might even be a golden rule for all I know?

            That it's always, take things away first, before you get into trouble spending that pay check!

            Remove the minus side first. Then the positive. The minus goes back last when your done working! Like taxes for social security.

            Minus off first is minus sparks.

            The only time you can get to see or have sparks is on the Fourth of July!

            Regards

            Phil








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              I was only going to tighen the terminal. 200 1983

              Knew better than to do it, the post is hot and the fender is close. But that plus battery terminal is a bit loose, the wrench was in hand, and I was going to be careful. The wrench slipped suddenly, there is a bright flash and a good chunk is missing from the wrench and on the inside of the fender. After the heart rate approached normal and the adrenal rush eased a bit, swore to myself that the next time Inga needed a battery the negative terminal is going to be on the dang other side.

              While loose on a rant, I just love having a jumper cable clamp hooked to 680 cranking amp battery and a 100 amp alternator that close to chassis ground. Nothing can possibly go wrong with that grounded fender and power steering reservoir mount sitting right there mere inches away from a metal clamp loaded by a spring.

              For the record the wrench, yeah I did it and it was a good one, but in the back of the wagon is a rubber pad that goes over the areas near that terminal before the jumper cable does. One Sis Boom Bah was more than enough.

              Regards,

              Flash








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              Here are the links...... 200 1983

              Thanks to all! I will start cutting on the current one today. What fun! I may try my cheapo dremel tool from Harbor Freight. This might even burn it out and give me reason to get a decent one :-) Cheers!








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                Here are the links...... 200 1983

                My son in law brought that cutting tool, good luck. If yours came with the cutting wheels that his HF unit did, please wear a dust mask and good safety goggles. There were pieces of cutting wheel flying all over the place. He stopped after about five or six wheels had sprayed the area with dust and chips and asked if he could borrow mine.

                Think about getting a little better cutting wheel, I suggest the heavy duty ones with the fibers. That will cut a lot faster and help that wimpy little motor burn up faster so you can upgrade sooner.

                Good Luck,

                Paul








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                  Here are the links...... 200 1983

                  Thanks for the tip. I noticed that the HF unit was pretty crappy. Just cutting off a bolt was a long and tedious job. But what do you expect for $10? I will borrow a true dremel unit from my neighbor. But either way, safety gear is called-for. Cheers!







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