Bolts were impossible to remove and I'm wondering if I got them tight enough. Changed from bolt and nut going through the starter plate, to threads in the starter plate. I tightened them as tight as I could get them. Please advise.

BTW, does anyone know the difference between later model year BOSCH starters that are smaller than those used in the early and mid 80's. How and why are they smaller.

You probably don't need to beat yourself up about the bolts if you made them as tight as you could. Yes--they can be hard to break loose and they do need to be tight--if you used sockets, extensions and ratchet--3/8" drive regular length handle you'd have to really lean on the ratchet to achieve tight enough---1/2" drive provides more than enough torque. If you used a short box end hand wrench without a "cheater bar" added there may be some room for concern.
I don't know why specifically the starters got smaller but less expensive copper, lighter weight, lower shipping costs and tighter packaging are probably close. The small starter in my '92 940 Turbo gave its life for my slow to figure out starting/running problem. The day after I fixed the problem with a new FI temp sensor the starter gave up. Replaced it with one from an earlier 240--they all interchange. -- Dave

The later model starters use a reduction gear versus being a direct drive. Reduction gear startes are more compact and generally have more power and torque than direct drive.

Charles
Houston, TX

Ok... I leaned pretty hard on that 3/4 in. Soooo... I guess it's ok. I had to use a 3/4 in. with a 9 or 12 inch extension and a universal on the end to get at the bolts on the back of the engine. PITA... especially at the junkyard. I actually removed the brake booster and was standing on my wrench to try and remove one of the new prospective starters, but I couldn't get it off.

Thanks for the advice!!