manual windows, central locking relay is unhooked due to short.

My drivers door started acting up on me really quickly today.I adjusted the outside handle's metal lever and now it works fine. The inside looks like its working but its just not pulling up on the latch the same as the outside. The metal piece from the handle to the joints bends outwards from trying to pull it too hard. So I'm guessing the handle is doing all that it can do and needs to be adjusted somehow.

How can I adjust the inside handle? This is a new problem for me when it comes to the door handle problems.

I have been working on this very problem lately, with my '83 242. I managed to fix the "saggy handle" problem with the outside, but still have way too much play with the inside handle. My theory is that the metal used for the long metal piece has deformed past a point where I can fix it. This piece also bows outwards when trying to open the door. I've tried repositioning the fulcrum point, but this makes little difference. I've also tried replacing the entire piece. Worked better for awhile, but it's back to not working at the moment. I think my options are to grind away the door metal to find a better fulcrum point, or cut the arm at a point where it's flat, and insert some type of non-bending metal piece to extend the assembly, so there is negligible play. I'll try to post back a solution, if I get it working. Maybe this'll help your brainstorming.

Cheers,
Jesus

(edit: oops. see that you've already sorted this problem out. Got to get used to viewing threads here I guess...)

Its all about the lubrication and alignment of the moving pieces in the latch/catch assembly.When things fit properly and move freely,then the levers and linkage used to control them should not feel the need to bow.Try my theory by checking the alignment,and then flooding all moving parts with a light weight lube.I think you will be happy with the results,if not,something must be broken or mangled.
good luck

The part where the latch hangs on to the body. The plastic on that male ring that the latch holds to when the door is closed had ripped and was causing the latch to hang up on it. Once I tore that off it worked fine. I've also been spraying PB blaster at the outside of the latch on the door. Will follow up with the lithium grease.

Thanks.

Further inspection I've found that the latch needs to be lifted by the handles more than my passenger's side door latch. Guessing its time to switch it out. I tried some motor cycle chain oil to lubricate it a bit since its been cold (20's) and snow.

Anyone ever have the latch go out on them? All my doors seem to have a snap to them rather than a softer feeling latch like my 86. Maybe the montana cold got to them years ago.

I think there are some pics in the archives.

I believe I've had this problem and it was a break in the pot-metal level. In any case, you'll need to pull the panel.

These parts break (for me) easily int he cold - I assume they've been cracked and the extra resistance is the tipping point.
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240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

I've already removed the panel and adjusted the outside handle. That worked but the inside is still giving me problems and I don't see any where I can adjust. Plus if they both went bad at the same time in a matter of a half dozen openings then I suspect there is something else but I don't see any missing parts.

How does one search the picture archive?

The screw at the fulcrum point of the inside handle when loosened can slide forward or rearward,Adjusting it rearward gives more push to the linkage.I have had great success with malfunctioning door latches by flooding the latches with WD-40 and then once working good follow up with lithium grease(keep it off the glass and window rubber scrapers).