*WHAT I DID:*

So two days ago, my starter clicked twice when I turned the key and then nothing. AAA towed to my Dad's house for free and I got to work. Two days later (after riding a moped in 30 degree weather to the junkyard) I got a nice 92' 245 BOSCH starter on there. The casing is smaller, as well as the solenoid, but all lined up and seems to work fine.

In order to get at the starter I took off my intake hose between the throttle body and AMM, AMM, hose between AMM and air box and the airbox. The hose between the throttle body and AMM was exceptionally hard to remove but on inspection shows no signs of cracks etc.

*THE PROBLEM*

When I got everything back together, the idle was VERY rough. Inside the car there is almost a knocking noise (not mechanical nor from inside engine), just very violent rocking of the engine. Before the starter went out, it ran GREAT... ran 250mi from alabama at 80mph with the stock 300k block no problems a week ago.

Air mass meter was replaced about 2 years ago, but apparently, there has been no hot/cold regulator in the airbox. Not a failed regulator, just NO flap at all. Bad AMM? why would it show up now?

I've tried reading through "rough idle" posts and I don't know where to start.

TIA
-Ryan

Start with diagnostics of each input into the fuel injection system. See this:

http://kourt.dehaas.com/volvo/lh-diagnostics.pdf

Two pages from the Volvo circuit manual. I would check that the following components are connected properly:

Air Mass Meter
Throttle Position Switch
Knock Sensor
Oxygen Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
25a fuse
Idle Air Control motor

Another easy thing to overlook is the PCV plumbing, especially where it reconnects to the air intake tube between the AMM and throttle body. Make sure all that is connected correctly. Any unmetered air entering that tube will result in very poor idle. Also, crazy as it sounds, it's possible to connect the AMM backwards so that your airflow runs contrary to the AMM's designed flow direction. There's an arrow on the side with "durchfluss" ("flow-through" in German). Get that one correct!

kourt
87 245
austin, tx

Does it run ok otherwise? Drive ok?

I have to think you must have knocked a hose or a wire loose, not knowing it. I would first check the electrical and hose connections to the IAC.. it's gonna be hard to see, up under the manifold.. it's got the two ~1" hoses connected to it, one comes from what sounds like that intake hose you removed, the other goes up through the manifold between intake runners and hooks to the manifold.. and the IAC needs it's electrical connection...

Other possibilities might include a temp sensor wire knocked off..

I'd just retrace all steps you took, look for any loose ends (wires or hose)

I think there is probably at least one wire down there that never was connected to anything.. so don't be too alarmed if you see a dead end...

I'm thinkin' air leak somewhere though.. it's tight, it's easy to bump something off without knowing it.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Thank you guys... I actually did check some of that stuff out before I finally realized what was going on. Glad I did too. For example the throttle body was FILTHY. My thanks again. Anyway... stupid me, it ended up being a misfire on cylinder #3. Found it by disconnecting each of the plug wires while running and nothing happened when #3 went. Still don't know if it was injectors or plugs. Plug didn't smell gassy when I pulled it out and checked it so... I guess injectors.

*OTHER PROBLEMS*

My only question as to the starter is, how tight should the bolts be? The ones at pull a part were IMPOSSIBLE to get off, so I tightened the ones on my car down as tight as I could. I had to use a 1ft extender and a universal adapter just to get it off and back on again :P PITA. No torque specs in the Haynes manual. Suggestions?

For tonight I have planned the replacement of my leaking transmission coolant lines. First are there any tips for cleaning used lines? Came off of a 93 and look REALLY good.

Also, my temp gauge has stopped working. I'm guessing the connection is on the driver's side of the engine and that I probably disconnected it replacing the starter. Haven't even looked at this yet, but tips and locations would be sweet.

Thanks as always to the brave souls on brickboard for helping me keep my 84' 244 running strong!!

-Ryan

check the spark plug... decent chance you fuel fouled it when it wouldn't start.

Easy diagnostic is to swap plugs with another hole, and see if the engine miss moves with the plug. Same can be done with the injectors, though I don't know what's involved in removing them...

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

oh... I guess I never mention I got it running :P It's running fine now. The initial issue was the engine wouldn't turn over and the original starter was the main culprit. With that replaced I experienced rough idle caused by non firing #3 cylinder. After realizing what it was, cleaning the distributor, spark wire contacts and injector contacts, the car now runs as it did before; very well.