It's a fairly clean stored '62, going to see it this week.

To make it a driver, I'd want front disc brakes and probably do a Vperformance T9 tranny adaptation.

I've done a t5 on a 145 (and a V8 780, forgive me).

Would 140 arms/brakes work?

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks. Long time since I've been here.
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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL

The easiest way of disk braking a PV is to use the Amazon front disks and caliper brackets. It's not quite a bolt on but its close. The brakes from a 140 are nowhere near as easy to fit.

The transmission tunnel on a PV is tiny, enlarging the front part of it means you lose significant room for your feet. Even fitting an M41 overdrive box requires tunnel surgery. Personally I'd go M41 rather than T9

Is a complete crossmember swap possible between a 544 and a 140?

Track difference, mount bolt alignment differences?


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MPergiel, Walker, MI

It's certainly not a bolt in, look up Virgilthevolvo's posts here.

Or, I guess, skip straight to the source:
http://georger.com/gds/544_volvo_front_end.htm

Basically, not much easier than sticking any other front suspension on. PV's have a lot less in common with the other old Volvo's - 1120/1800/140.

122 discs aren't quite a bolt on to a 544 spindle, but they're fairly close.

As for a trans swap. anything larger than an M40 isn't going to fit without surgery, unlike the 120's larger tunnel. An M41 requires major surgery, but not where your feet sit. I guess a real 5 speed would be nice vs. the 4sp OD M41, and these days an M41 isn't that easy to find anyhow. I put an M41 in my PV and I'm very happy with the results. Without forced induction you aren't going to blow up an M40/41.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

I've done it

http://georger.com/gds/stage_1_v2.htm


Worked for me!

Did you reinforce those cutouts in any way?
Like weld a section of tube in?

How is the welding on a 40 yo car. Last time I tried on a 62 Chevy truck with mig setup it popped like crazy. No carbon left, I was told.

So I looked a the car. Covered in birdshit. Rotted tail inside trunk. Rotted left rocker panel, suspect right rocker panel. All there but geeze I need 2 stalls to do this comfortably.

He's asking $1500. I'm thinking $500.




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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL

Yes,
Everything was "Boxed" and inserts were welded in. No problem with welding the older metal.... the new metal was very thick.In order to get the correct ride height I cut 1-1/4 from the bottom of the spears and welded in nuts on the soon to be inside to connect to. It has worked fine and I have logged in over 80,000 miles since I did the work. Getting the geometry and mounting points for the 140 steering was necessary too.... I have an anti sway bar for a 140 in the front...1800ES automatic rear axle and a T5 transmission. Took it to California from Buffalo last April. Presently sorting out Mikuni HSR 42 setup with a single carb.

Did you get any pictures of this car. How is the frame as far as rust. I bought a 61 544 this past summer and it looked good until I went underneath and found the frame area that supported the clutch/brake area was rusted (a rather important area of the frame). I bought it anyways and welded the frame and so far it's good to go. Check for frame rust before making the purchase.